New cracked ceiling

Steve H 1234

New Member
Hi new to this site sorry if going over old ground.
Recently had ceiling tacked and skimmed. Guy has board joint all along joist hangers in to a steel. Was a slight difference in height where the boards met. I dug it out a little definitely got scrim. My first thought before it being skimmed was that it’s not a good idea to have the board joint following the joist hanger line. Other areas in the build the board edge misses the joist hanger around 600mm and no issues.
As I say my instinct tells me following so close the joist hangers is the problem but any ideas best solution?
The decorator (my old man 50years in the game) has filled and painted twice but crack back next day. He hasnt tried flexible caulk yet as reckons difficult to rub down?
Works been done by our friends firm so don’t want to cause him to much grief but don’t want ceiling looking like a knock through either as new extension.
Magic wand supplier be helpful for rest of the works!
 
Think polycell do a flexible paint for cracks . I’d try it over the crack . Can always go over it again with your emulsion. You can fill and sand cracks all day long and they always reappear
 
Think polycell do a flexible paint for cracks . I’d try it over the crack . Can always go over it again with your emulsion. You can fill and sand cracks all day long and they always reappear
 

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Don't bother with flex mastic ect. Won't work. If you push board along crack dose it will move? If joint in on wooden joist or metal then drill 10mm holes every 100mm through board to the wood/metal and shoot foam in. Don't go mad with it but just enough. Use foam gun or cheapo tin of foam with tube. This will stop movement as will pack the back with foam. Make good with filler. I sometimes cut mesh tape down the middle to make narrower and place over crack with fine filler. Sand. Prime. Paint.. Done..
 
This has its limits, its good on crazed skim, but movement cracks no.
Polycell flexible paint.
 
i had a cracked ceiling last week so i opened it up a bit then put tou-pret tx110 after a couple of hours got a fine foam pad give a gentle rub down and painted am waiting for the phone to go.
the customer wanted it skimmed again but i said it was a pointless exercise this should be enough.
dont think she liked what she was hearing the bitch.
its not good when it happens tho ruins your stride.
 
I would shoot the old bxxxard if he put up woodchip!
I guess all the ideas together got to work!
Tacker coming over tomorrow talking about using jack screws to fix through joist hangers as he’s only just clipped edge of board into wood.
Wayners- i guess if expanding foam just seeps in under the board and up side of joist should get it and across back of both boards to underside of structural steel, about 6m long so not easy to ignore. So cut through mesh and fill? How do you bridge the boards?
Mega mix- Like the sound of flexible paint perhaps try before cutting scrim

Dare I say it but was considering tape and jointing as not easy to find half decent spread! Didn’t want soft walls though with a 5 year old charging around.
 
If nothing behind the plasterboard join to get foam against I stick strips of plasterboard to bridge from the back. I do this a lot on bungalows as will stop cracking ever appear again. Problem is that you can't get access unless it a bungalow or loft area. In this case I cut a grove in the crack and pva. 10mm holes every 100mm and quick blast with foam which will bridge and firm up. Fill raked crack with toupret from screwfix or toolstation which is a powdered filler and way better then easyfill. Cut the fiber tape in half and place over crack with more toupret. Sounge down edges of filler as this is problem area to smooth when dry, as edges can show. Sand when dry. Fingers crossed. Also helps to use the Gyproc thinner mesh and johnstones paints sell it. It's not a good tape for plastering as to fine but brilliant for repairs
 
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I would shoot the old bxxxard if he put up woodchip!
I guess all the ideas together got to work!
Tacker coming over tomorrow talking about using jack screws to fix through joist hangers as he’s only just clipped edge of board into wood.
Wayners- i guess if expanding foam just seeps in under the board and up side of joist should get it and across back of both boards to underside of structural steel, about 6m long so not easy to ignore. So cut through mesh and fill? How do you bridge the boards?
Mega mix- Like the sound of flexible paint perhaps try before cutting scrim

Dare I say it but was considering tape and jointing as not easy to find half decent spread! Didn’t want soft walls though with a 5 year old charging around.

You could pva the crack about 2-3 inches either side then when dry use some easi fill and paper tape over it. Let this dry for a few hours then pva the whole ceiling or use grit bonding agent ready to reskim.
 
Had a cracked lounge once where joist moved when walked on from above. Pure chance I was looking up when the son stood at that area of landing causing lounge ceiling to move. I packed joist with slate and grip fill above internal brick wall and it fixed it
 
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