newbie looking for lots of advice on false ceiling and dot and dab walls

[dannyp13]

hi guys

i had recent news the missus was going to drop in about 7 months time. we have a 3 bed semi and have had the main bedroom done for ourselves. we have decided to make the larger of the other 2 rooms for the new arrival.

this room measures 3.7m x 3.2m x 2.6m high. i had a plasterer look at it about 18 months ago and he recommended all the plaster removed as it had failed in so many places. walls and ceiling, its lathe and plaster on 2 internal walls and solids on exterior and party wall. party wall has chimney beast and 2 alcoves. i have removed all lathe and plaster and knocked off all plaster from solids to bare brick. also one alcove has a combi bolier there. havnt done ceiling as i was thinking of putting in a false one. ceiling has built in curves coming down to the wall which i dont like. i have lots of questions especially after reading ballsdeep story of the ceiling which came down. clearly the ceiling wasnt strong enought to take the weight of the boards and plastering.

i have lots of questions for the professionals really. i normally get skilled in to do all the work but theres a recession on and i have had so many cowboys that im gonna give it ago myself but get a plasterer in to do the final finish. i know i would mess that up that but i dont mind doing the ceiling and boarding out the room.

ceiling in first.
1. what size timber to frame out the ceiling?
2. distances timber needs to be apart for strength?
3. noggins inbetween to strengthen more?
4. what size screws to make sure plasterboard stays up?
5. if i lower the ceiling from the original, can i put insulation in the cavity?
6. do i need to tie the new ceiling to the roof joists for more support over the 3.7x3.2 distance?

walls next (studded}

1. im working on my own, so to hold boards and screws need to be how far apart?
2. whats best method to ensure radiator brackets have a secure fixing? pipe work already in place so not guaranteed to hit timber frame with screws?
3. 2nd studded wall has timber frame but with bricks inbetween but only half the wall and only half way up??? this parties the bathroom which has been fully boarded out and tiled, so no heavy banging???

solid walls

just the best method to dot and dab really. i feel confident enough just to dot all over the wall and level board.

1. do i board the window out first?
2. how do i stick the metal beading on the corners around the window and chimney breast?
3. do i need to "key" the walls first with pva?
4. how far off the floorboards do i need to be with a gap?

i know this my sound childlike to you skilled guys but i want to do i properly and need your help please

thanks in advance

danny

 

[Chris W]

dont forget the 50% rule boys....
carry on...

 

[owls]

1.3x2 timber will be fine
2.400mm centres
3.nogins to strengthen as well as to stop the timbers twisting
4.screws want to be in the timber 20mm so id use 30mm screws min
5.you can as......
nah i cant be arsed answering any more id be here a week,if all your getting is cowboys your looking at the wrong place for tradesman.
pay for it done, your going to tackle a suspended ceiling above your newborn child yourself,what would be the cosiquence of not doing it right and it falling down,doesnt bare thinking about.

 

[lucius]

Fcuking hell mate give us a chance weve just all had a long holiday, well ive beeen working but a bit the worst for the wear now had a good drink today, dont despair you will get some answers to your questions but maybe tomorrow:RpS_drool:

 

[spunky]

if youve took the walls off cant you take the ceiling down too mate just reboard the fooker then you could insulate between the joists and across the joists if you wanted
havent a clue what you mean walls (3)

the dabbing bit theres loads of ways if its a smalish wall and window cut youre head and youre reveals 25mm and come off these and stick the boards inside probably aint going to happen on old stone if its all over the shop do the wall come over youre heads reveals then stick youre reveals after and cut the rest back
stick with plaster or staple the beads or nail them if you do a solid dab and get a fixing
pva wont hurt
put 2 strips of board on the floor and sit youre boards ontop this helps movement from floorboards and will help you tap the boards back

 

[spunky]

if the buildings single skin youd want to build a partition insulate it and use vapour check boards on any external walls
if it isnt single skin and not insulated and you want to insulate dab it with insulation backed boards