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artexman

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i,ve got a job plasterboarding an concrete outhouse/toilet that has really bad condenstion problem, going to batton out, then screw on moistureshield plasterboard then skim. (ceiling and walls) is this going to be best idea thank
 
You can no probs you're meant to pva or gypbond it, the condensations probably from poor ventilation mate
 
You mean the foil backed board yer you can skim them. Water resistant board which has water repellant additives in the core making them suitable for a base for tiling some wet areas. This type of plasterboard usually comes with a green face and is not usually plastered. They are excellent for high humidity areas but, as all gypsum plasters soak up moisture quickly, it would be counter productive to plaster them.
 
Your fine to plaster a moist resistant board as long as its sealed as said with a pva or bonding agent.id be using a themaline plasterboard as apposed to just a standard vapourcheck board.is it a single skin wall or does it have a cavity.
And you need to rectify the ventilation within the room.
 
mind you they would say that wouldnt they as its a bg product,pvas fine.
I once had this out with a bg rep who came out onto site,on a mill conversion I was doing.
he said your not suppose to lay any finish on it,so i said once hed finished waffling on, what you suppose to do on a ceiling then?
his response was erm erm yes ok.there clever fellas these bg lads.
 
owls said:
mind you they would say that wouldnt they as its a bg product,pvas fine.
I once had this out with a bg rep who came out onto site,on a mill conversion I was doing.
he said your not suppose to lay any finish on it,so i said once hed finished waffling on, what you suppose to do on a ceiling then?
his response was erm erm yes ok.there clever fellas these bg lads.
Click to expand...

Lol i like that, Bet he shut right up after that!
 
Well you can use wba all it is doing is giving you a key to skim onto. The board not really made for skimming yet we do needs must.
 
all this about wether you can skim mr board on not and the whole point of the exercise is to eliminate water condensing on the surfaces...
ffs..
batten it, INSULATE IT, then board it...
moisture laden air wont give up its water (i.e. CONDENSE) on a warm surface but it will on a COLD surface...
use vapourcheck boards to stop warm air penetrating THROUGH to a cold surface behind the insulation...

using vapourcheck on their own without insulation will make a difference, but not enough imo, if the surface behind is cold, then the boards will be cold.....

you dont need to use moisture resistant boards at all...
 
Chris W said:
all this about wether you can skim mr board on not and the whole point of the exercise is to eliminate water condensing on the surfaces...
ffs..
batten it, INSULATE IT, then board it...
moisture laden air wont give up its water (i.e. CONDENSE) on a warm surface but it will on a COLD surface...
use vapourcheck boards to stop warm air penetrating THROUGH to a cold surface behind the insulation...

using vapourcheck on their own without insulation will make a difference, but not enough imo, if the surface behind is cold, then the boards will be cold.....

you dont need to use moisture resistant boards at all...
Click to expand...
correct just normal boards will do as long as whats behin itis right ie insulation you cant go wrong
 
depends...
best way - gripfill the cellotex to the wall, butting up the joints and gaffer tape (or plate closure plumbers tape) over the joints, then run the battens over the top, drill straight through the lot and use concrete fixings like starfix...
this gives you a vapour barrier, a 25mm low emmisivity air gap, and somewhere to run your cables and dryline boxes without hacking the cellotex to bits...

cellotex itself is a vapour barrier in itself except at the joints...
or where it would butt up to a batten....
technically if its put in between battens you still need a way to stop vapour getting down the joints, so its either a separate vapour barrier over the top, gaffer tape or vapour check...

technically...
 
vapour check boards arent sealed at the edges.... theres always a week spot... thats why i say 'technically'...
i'd just batten, insulate between, and board it for a condensation problem in an old outhouse with no sockets, no building regs and sod the u-values etc...

different if you want to keep as much heat as possible, theres sockets to fit and building control are on the case...

also depends on how much you got to lose on the room size, reveals, door liners etc....
 
bought some today, - toolstation, 132mm complete with cover caps, 4quid sommat... for 25 hang on ill link it..
 
they used to be around a tenner for a hundred, 100mm or 120's...
will fix into most things, lightweights arent as good a fixing - dont overnuke em, use a worn 6mm...
real hard concrete you might wanna use a 7mm cos they'll snap your friggin wrist when your torquin em up...
great in commons, or most bricks, standard concrete, bit dodge on 'no-fines' concrete but about the only thing ive found that'll fix into that shite is a chemical fixing...
 
yeh, simple as, straight through the timber into the wall, wind em in... good cordless though... they dont half pull up mate....

youll need a long series sds bit... dont forget the size of the sds bit as advertised usually includes the shank.... youll need a 150 bit for a 100mm fixing...

cheap sds bits are usually bent too...
 
no worries, i use em all the time now, you'll be hard pushed to find a more solid fixing and theyre quick as f'ck if your battening a room out....
absolutley brilliant for uPVC windows etc...

they dont counterskink though, so if your doin door liners with em, youll need to counterbore the hole a bit with a little 12mm spade bit...
 
owls said:
mind you they would say that wouldnt they as its a bg product,pvas fine.
I once had this out with a bg rep who came out onto site,on a mill conversion I was doing.
he said your not suppose to lay any finish on it,so i said once hed finished waffling on, what you suppose to do on a ceiling then?
his response was erm erm yes ok.there clever fellas these bg lads.
Click to expand...
what would you have said if he had said you have to tape and joint them with jointing compound
 
Basicly what BG are saying is that the skim finish does not have the same qualities as the green board so if you are going to skim no point in using the green board in the first place.
 
I wouldn't delve too deep I've skimmed standard board for tiles seen standard board tiled on skimmed mr board and now people are using hardibacker/cement boards it's a load of b*ll***s made up by people who manufacture boards .... .you get the same argument oh you need to sand cement bathrooms loads of b*ll***s most plasterers use a tight coat of bonding and skim it's the ******* tiles grout and sealant that keep it water tight
 
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