paint mapping

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bigspread

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Hi guys
Anyone on here had problems with painters complaining about paint mapping on newly skimmed walls.

I was wondering if its more common with certain types of finish?

Any ideas of anything us plasterers can do to avoid the problem?
 
Painters always moan, so best to give them sumtin to Moan about, just take a thin brush dipped in some pva and write painters are arseholes, on your finished Walls, invisible till it's painted.. Map that ya T***s:RpS_lol:
 
It can be caused by overtrowelling too.
If they keep moaning, polish **** out of the wall at waist height only, just keep going over and over and over it. They won't moan at you again.
 
Fourplastering said:
It can be caused by overtrowelling too.
If they keep moaning, polish **** out of the wall at waist height only, just keep going over and over and over it. They won't moan at you again.
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Over polishin! Seen it loads of times, I was on a job a while back and an Albanian spread!! Polished it to death, like a mirror FFs coonts on the job thought it was amazing, " oh look at that it's so smooth and Shiney". Yep wait till the painter shows up.... Feckin raging!!! :RpS_thumbup:
 
Fatarm said:
Painters always moan, so best to give them sumtin to Moan about, just take a thin brush dipped in some pva and write painters are arseholes, on your finished Walls, invisible till it's painted.. Map that ya T***s:RpS_lol:
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I used to polish messages into the walls for a certain decorator to find with his mist coat.
 
Artisan998 said:
WTF is paint mapping .......:RpS_confused:
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copy and pasted from:
https://www.askaboutmoney.com/showthread.php?t=114739

''This problem ( known as Mapping or Murphys Defect ) is due to variable porosity of the plaster surface, generally caused by overtrowelling of the plaster. The areas where the paint is slow to dry have low porosity and often the surrounding areas where the paint is absorbed readily show a build up giving the "map" appearance.This mapping problem only occurs on solid block plastered walls and not on plasterboard surfaces such as ceilings or partition walls.The problem cannot be seen in the raw plaster state, it only becomes evident when paint is applied.*Generally, when the first or second coat of emulsion has fully dried application of additional coats are OK. It may be necessary to sand any raised areas to even up the surface. As a last resort you can apply a coat of Dulux Sealapore which seals the surface and evens out the porosity.''
 
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Would paint mapping be less common if we used a certian type of finish?

Good idea there from fatarm, Burst out laughing when i read it thismorning, still trying to clean the breakfast cerial of the laptop.
 
bigspread said:
Would paint mapping be less common if we used a certian type of finish?

Good idea there from fatarm, Burst out laughing when i read it thismorning, still trying to clean the breakfast cerial of the laptop.
Click to expand...

What finish are you suggesting?
They will always find something to moan about, if it's not the mapping it will be simething else.
 
Had it happen on my extension only on rendered walls not plasterboard been plastering 25 years and never had it before write pain in the ass made the wall look s..t had to sand the paint down then I coated it with PVa sorted the job in the end wonder if you get this with a plastic refina trowel ?
 
Fourplastering said:
copy and pasted from:
cat faces on newly painted wall - chemical reaction - Askaboutmoney.com

''This problem ( known as Mapping or Murphys Defect ) is due to variable porosity of the plaster surface, generally caused by overtrowelling of the plaster. The areas where the paint is slow to dry have low porosity and often the surrounding areas where the paint is absorbed readily show a build up giving the "map" appearance.This mapping problem only occurs on solid block plastered walls and not on plasterboard surfaces such as ceilings or partition walls.The problem cannot be seen in the raw plaster state, it only becomes evident when paint is applied.*Generally, when the first or second coat of emulsion has fully dried application of additional coats are OK. It may be necessary to sand any raised areas to even up the surface. As a last resort you can apply a coat of Dulux Sealapore which seals the surface and evens out the porosity.''
Click to expand...

Roger that FP.i know what ya on about now marra........:RpS_thumbup:
 
Fatarm said:
Carlite finish! Red bags, not seen that s**t for years!:-0
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over here in Ireland mate it was all we had, but a 3 years ago we started to get multifinish. Starting to see why its cheaper!

Do any of the plasterers on here use ultra finish (blue bags)?
 
Ah right, multi and board mostly for us, never seen ultra this side of the water mate heard bout it tho, quicker set time is that right? Are you familiar With it? Good to work with?
 
Fatarm said:
Ah right, multi and board mostly for us, never seen ultra this side of the water mate heard bout it tho, quicker set time is that right? Are you familiar With it? Good to work with?
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Only started to work with Ultra about 3 weeks ago havent used it myself but the guys say its quicker to set & gives a harder finish.
The jury is still out on how it looks when its painted.

I done a job for a builder last december about 2000sq/m of sand/ cement & skim The builder told me that his client was looking for a very high standard of work, so we may have over trowelled the walls slightly.

The finish looked perfect (no fat marks, bumps, or brush marks) until it was painted. then i got a call from the builder to say that the quality of the skimming was very poor. I went to look at the Job & sure enough the walls looked very bad, The painter was there & he was saying that it was down to poor quality plastering. So i took a paint scraper & removed about 1 m/2 of paint from 1 wall & the plaster was prefect.

The painter was using some sort of expensive eco paint which he had never used before.

This made me go & look at some other jobs we were on when they were being painted & sure enough I can see paint mapping on all the walls that are sand / cement & skim. But on all the other jobs the next coat of paint seems to look perfect.

In The building we had problems with, the new block walls were saturated with water when we put the sand/ cem coat on but we did not skim the s/s walls until at least 4 days later.

I donk know if the building was too wet for plastering or if I have used the wrong product!

I was on the tools myself (26 years Plastering), & all the guys that were with me would have at least 10 years in the trade.

Im putting it down to the multi!!!
 
Dumping on people's door steps seems a common theme on here. Is not made the news yet but there must be a lot of shitty door steps out there. Do you wipe whilst there or climb back in the van with a mucky bucket?
 
nar mate just get back in the van and go to the club (when the s**t dries just peel it off or give it a rub and itll fall down ya trouser leg :RpS_wink:)
 
bigspread said:
Only started to work with Ultra about 3 weeks ago havent used it myself but the guys say its quicker to set & gives a harder finish.
The jury is still out on how it looks when its painted.

I done a job for a builder last december about 2000sq/m of sand/ cement & skim The builder told me that his client was looking for a very high standard of work, so we may have over trowelled the walls slightly.

The finish looked perfect (no fat marks, bumps, or brush marks) until it was painted. then i got a call from the builder to say that the quality of the skimming was very poor. I went to look at the Job & sure enough the walls looked very bad, The painter was there & he was saying that it was down to poor quality plastering. So i took a paint scraper & removed about 1 m/2 of paint from 1 wall & the plaster was prefect.

The painter was using some sort of expensive eco paint which he had never used before.

This made me go & look at some other jobs we were on when they were being painted & sure enough I can see paint mapping on all the walls that are sand / cement & skim. But on all the other jobs the next coat of paint seems to look perfect.

In The building we had problems with, the new block walls were saturated with water when we put the sand/ cem coat on but we did not skim the s/s walls until at least 4 days later.

I donk know if the building was too wet for plastering or if I have used the wrong product!

I was on the tools myself (26 years Plastering), & all the guys that were with me would have at least 10 years in the trade.

Im putting it down to the multi!!!
Click to expand...

Using sand/cement was the only time ive seen mapping, we did some dampproofing and the customer didnt paint it for 6 weeks but where the mapping was the wall felt colder. the house was empty with no heating on so i told him to get a space heater just to get some warmth into the room and since then the painting has been fine.
 
This all sounds like a right load of b*ll***s, if as you say you managed to remove the paint from a m2 of wall then there's no way the paint was properly adhered to the plaster. If this is true it is entirely down to the decorator. If the walls have been over trowelled and are shiny then the decorator should whip a sanding float over the wall to take the shine off. If the walls are very porous then it's up to the decorator to know how best to get over it just the same as we as plasterers should know how to cope with different situations. Decorating is just like plastering in that there are to many chancers with very little knowledge taking on work and if things go wrong blaming someone else.
So if you have left the walls nice and flat, without bumps or hollows then it isn't your problem.
 
If the customer likes shiny walls, then I'll give them shiny walls.

I don't give a sh1t what the decorator wants or thinks. He should look at each situation (does he need to sand down or not?) and price accordingly, just like we have to.

Round here they get more for painting a wall than I do for plastering it. Makes me sick.
 
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