PLASTERBOARD EXTERNAL STONE WALLS

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stonehouse

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HI,
I was hoping for some advice, I am completely renovating a stone cottage, and trying to decide the best approach for replastering the downstairs. I have a solid flagstone floor, and the external walls are earth retaining at some points. Its not possible to dig out the outside, so tanking is a must. The walls had been re-plastered during 1950s using a bonding coat, which has been causing the cottage to become damp. I've removed the plaster, and cleanned walls back to the stone, and allowed to dry out over the summer. I would like to tank 1.5m of the walls with a sbr/cement mix slurry and then dab board straight on.

Having never used dot dab, how well will it fix to stone walls? the walls aren't too square. I was thinking of using foam to fix and using a moisture board, theres no room for insulation on a couple of the walls due to a window being right in the corner.

the other external walls i plan to either:
1)Fix celetex (having tanked) and then batten and board, or:
2)Frame, with celetex in between and board over.

Any suggestions would be appreciated!

cheers
 
the board'll stick alright...
but how about getting the wall blasted and re-pointed? people would pay a fortune to have a wall like that created in stone -effect render....
 
p.s. i'd go with cellotex and batten and board over...
you can get you cables in the air gap, which also acts as a low emmisivity airspace, and if you butt the cellotex up and tape the joints you dont need a separate vapour barrier...
 
Yeah i thought about metal frame, we've had the idea of leaving the stone exposed, but i think its probably going to suffer from penetrating damp at the low levels where the wall is earth retaining.

i think the best option would be a membrane on wall covered in board, but the cost is off putting. We're not living in the house at the moment, but need to get moved in to save some pennies, so was thinking of painting the walls to keep the dust down, and then dry line at a later date, once i can establish the extent of the damp. would dot dab fix okay to a painted stone wall?
 
A builder had me dot and dab on a tanking slurry on solid walls, without applying a scratch coat first and in the winter when it was warm inside and the solid walls were cold, condensation formed on the tanking slurry and mould formed on the face of the plasterboard where the dabs were. The solution, and not the best solution, but all the builder was willing to pay for, was to stick foil backed boards over the top with dryfix. So my answer would be, don't dab directly on tanking slurry.
 
saw some good stuff on sarahs beeny's renovation prog recently, fcuked if i can remember what it was though
 
id be tempted to metsec the external walls leaving an airgap and use phenolic boards then scratch the internals and dab moisture boards but without seeing some pics its all speculation
 
the stuff on beenys prog looked liked the stuff you lay underfloor heating on fixed staight onto the wall with frame fixings, then rendered with s + c and skimmed. the firm that did it has recently done a load of tube stations....
 
Pug said:
the stuff on beenys prog looked liked the stuff you lay underfloor heating on fixed staight onto the wall with frame fixings, then rendered with s + c and skimmed. the firm that did it has recently done a load of tube stations....
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I think that's a Delta system.
 
wwwplasterkingcouk said:
id be tempted to metsec the external walls leaving an airgap and use phenolic boards then scratch the internals and dab moisture boards but without seeing some pics its all speculation
Click to expand...

blind em with bullsiht and dazzle em with diamonds!
 
forget that membrane bizness on this kinda job be a nightmare to make good i imagine the stones all over the place no way youd get it out like plumb and fixings would be a mare needs to be leaving bare stone to breath with an air gap on external walls the k18 boards have foil between the foam and board to act as vapour barrier best board on market not cheap like about 30 bar a piece worth every penny in the situations
 
the one i was on about earlier is for external use, the idea is it replaces blackjack and french drains when the ground level is above dpc.... check the first link... would (might) save him tanking it provided theres a dpc... in which case the exposed stone becomes a possibility...
 
nooooooo dont you know anything? ::) you melt em down first in a metal bucket... let the kids dip there fingers in for a taste, f'ckin hilarious ;D ;D ;D
 
Chris W said:
nooooooo dont you know anything? ::) you melt em down first in a metal bucket... let the kids dip there fingers in for a taste, f'ckin hilarious ;D ;D ;D
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I'd go with option 2 mate. Will cost alot in celotex depending what depth i.e 50mm or 100mm. But also would give the option of sand blasting the walls and repointing it up but then you may loose work as you will need a sand blasting company. All the best with it mate....
 
going back to tonys answer would it of made a difference putting a scratch coat on the wall i'd imagine sbr's alot better than waterproofer in a sand cement mix ???
 
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