Plasterboarding lathe and plaster wall

[FreeD]

I have a lathe and plaster wall to re skim which is in a bad way...all the plaster is going to have to come off and it needs to be plaster boarded...

Is it ok to board over directly over the lathes? or do they need to be removed?

Once boarded (staircase wall) there will probably be a fairly large gap between the staircase skirting and the wall also to the door frame...should I try and make this up with bonding after boarding or before with battens on studwork?

cheers

 

[beddy]

you can go over the laths if they are butt jointed, if they are lapped joints then youll have to take them off.

 

[FreeD]

Ok think they are butt...I guess thats cause the levels will be all over the shot otherwise? and make the difference up to skirting, door liner with bonding after?

 

[MFW]

Pull a few laths off and use them to pack out the levels, thats the easiest way

 

[beddy]

no the walls can still be nice and straight and be lap joints. if the skirting sticks out too far you really need to take it off but if its staying then just put some caulking along it after its been skimmed

 

[FreeD]

I think the skirting is the staircase if you see what I mean so can't be pulled off...so why can't you board over lap joints?

 

[beddy]

because boards are 12.5mm all over, when you float a wall you can have it as thin or thick as you want, so the plaster will be slightly thicker where the lap joints are.

 

[FreeD]

Sorry not sure I understand you mean the plasterboard will stick out on the lap joints? so the wall wont be flat?

 

[bubbles65]

Cut some strips of plasterboard to the same width as the timber framework and stick them on first.
Like double-boarding.

 

[beddy]

plasterboard is a uniform thickness and on a stud walls it follows the shape of the wall, where as floating on laths, you can choose what thickness you need to go to.

 

[bubbles65]

plasterboard is a uniform thickness and on a stud walls it follows the shape of the wall, where as floating on laths, you can choose what thickness you need to go to.

Yeah agreed steve, but he says they are butt jointed so pb should be fine.

 

[FreeD]

When you say floating do you mean with a backing coat? I realise the board will go with the levels underneath but to be honest even if the joints were lapped by the time you have screwed and skimmed it are you really going to be able to tell a few mils that you could probably make up with skim anyway?

 

[beddy]

Yes

 

[Freerider]

If it was me I would take the lathes off mate, I re-boarded my bedroom a few years back without taking the lathes off and although the joints didnt over lap it was all over the place when boarded! so never again!

 

[Nisus]

Cut some strips of plasterboard to the same width as the timber framework and stick them on first.
Like double-boarding.

Was gonna say the same bubbles, like this:

 

[bubbles65]

Cut some strips of plasterboard to the same width as the timber framework and stick them on first.
Like double-boarding.

Was gonna say the same bubbles, like this:

Great minds and all that ;D : ;D

 

[Removed_101]

Pull a few laths off and use them to pack out the levels, thats the easiest way

the easy way is to overboard the whole thing.

common sence=least common of the sences.

 

[Pug]

if it's up the staircase though, you don't want to be coming proud of the wall string. might be best to strip back to studwork and board.

 

[Removed_101]

if it's up the staircase though, you don't want to be coming proud of the wall string. might be best to strip back to studwork and board.

i really doubt it's up the staircase.

 

[Nisus]

I have a lathe and plaster wall to re skim which is in a bad way...all the plaster is going to have to come off and it needs to be plaster boarded...

Is it ok to board over directly over the lathes? or do they need to be removed?

Once boarded (staircase wall) there will probably be a fairly large gap between the staircase skirting and the wall also to the door frame...should I try and make this up with bonding after boarding or before with battens on studwork?

cheers

if it's up the staircase though, you don't want to be coming proud of the wall string. might be best to strip back to studwork and board.

i really doubt it's up the staircase.

It is look ^^^^ ;D ;D

 

[Pug]

i need to start reading the previous posts a bit more carefully as well! ;D

 

[Nisus]

i need to start reading the previous posts a bit more carefully as well! ;D

;D ;D

 

[bubbles65]

Also - if it needs padding out, put a straight edge on it and see where you need to put extra pb strips, they screw into the laths ok.............

 

[FreeD]

Nice one lads appreciate it...was thinking of battening not plasterboarding but probably cheaper and just as effective to pack out with plasterboard...i'm going to take the plaster off because I need to add in some studwork for the boards...and want to know what i'm working with instead of screwing into nothing! done enough of that recently! lol

 

[Chris W]

if you wanna pack something bang on to a rizla get some wedge packers...
bit like the plastic ones for windows or packing units or just cut em with the grain from some timber...
slide 2 together opposite each other and theyre infinitely adjustable, same way chippies pack a door liner to get em dead straight and tight fixed....

 

[ADS]

if it's the only wall that you are doing and all the others are (french word)ed then i wouldn't worry to much.
i've put pefect(ish) :-[ walls in buildings and they look strange cos all the others are out,even whole rooms can look odd if the rest of the house on the (french word).
also be aware that if paper break when screwing (screwing between lathes) then through a screw a bit above/below to avoid popping.

 

[oasis]

cut sum packers from plasterboard... screw to timbers.. then dab boards on even and when set screw with bigger screws!