Too vague mate. Is it a new build? One room full up with furniture? A whole site of massive houses? Are the walls already painted so require scoring to make a key? Does my bum look big in this? Is the world flat?
Ill giv you a hand iff yo wont DarkieAnybody got any ideas what going rate is for 127 bg coving fix only.its a long time since i did any dont want to rob myself .
3.6m too!
I can, but I am the big G** god of coving.Don't think its possible to lift a 4.2 on your Sweeney todd. Specially once you've got the addy on. I only ise 3m now anyway.
i love coving when its so big it nearly snaps when u pick it up. was nice only doing 2 lengths a wall tho. was a 30-40m lid aswell. never had the pleasure of 4.2. bet its orgasmic
Don't think its possible to lift a 4.2 on your Sweeney todd. Specially once you've got the addy on. I only ise 3m now anyway.
140m is going some. that on your own? what sort of work is that? me and my old boss used to do about 8-10 boxes a day on site. and i found that a chore. he used to cut whislt i marked and measured, then i buttered, he stuck, i cleaned and filled. oh and i mixed. and cleaned up.
do u use a box or little triangle thing? think its a magic mitre or something.
On my own yes. 100m is an early day. I use an Artex mitre box for 4&5 inch (100&127mm) and one I made for Sculptured coving. That is on empty new houses though. Most I ever put up was 169 mtrs but that was a 10 hr day and an empty large house.
On my own yes. 100m is an early day. I use an Artex mitre box for 4&5 inch (100&127mm) and one I made for Sculptured coving. That is on empty new houses though. Most I ever put up was 169 mtrs but that was a 10 hr day and an empty large house.
Andy and tony, why do you use a mitre box?
thanks for all sensible and not so sensible suggestions.its a bungalow total reskim fully coved approx 15 boxes 3 metre long.cheers d*m**o its in flamboro by the sea.
I use a 10" Artex caulker and a 4" taping knife to butter up the cove and clean off with. Then I use a Harris tiling sponge, as it has 2 different grades of abrasion on it, and a small paint brush to wash off with. The adhesive should hold the cove in place on its own, but I do put a couple of 30mm sheradised pins through the full lengths to be safe. When i'm using the 4.2s I put a nail in the corner to rest it on while I push the rest of it into place.I see what you mean tony. What do you use to fill your joints etc? Would be interesting to see how someone does it day in day out. Do you put pins up or just stick it up freehand? I've often thought of getting a flat square piece of metal for using to fill any internals, but always end up using my small tool.
Because in my honest opinion, those template things that sit on the cove and you slant your saw to make the cut are utter s**t. I bought one to try and it was in the skip in less than 10 minutes. How would you cut an angle that was a bit off, with that tool? Would you just cut a 45 and move the two pieces of coving either up and down the wall until the mitres met? With a mitre box, at least you can sit the coving in the correct position, albeit inverted, and cut 'off angles' outside of the box. The cove is then still the correct distance down the wall. Hope this answers your question.
Same as this exept I'm to tight to throw that mitre tool away and it's still a drawer in the unit.
Tony have you noticed that the quality of the paper on BG cove is poor now and if you rub just a little to hard with the sponge it peels?
iv never used a sponge for cleaning. always a brush. and only ever 2 scrapers.