Quick bonding query

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Ky12

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Hi chaps, I bonded a wall out this morning with bonding and smoothed it off. Unfortunately I had to dash off so will be throwing finish on it tomorrow morning.

Do I just go straight on it after a weak coat of PVA? Or do I need to scratch it or is it too late for that?

Thanks in advanced
 
you can still scratch it before you skim it.I just get my knife and slice checks in the bonding. just bang some PVA on and skim away
 
So scratch, weak PVA so it feels damp, then on with the multi?

Any certain depth I need to scratch down into it?
 
I wouldn't worry about scratching it, there's enough suction and adhesion from the PVA to stick, I'd give it more than just a weak coat of PVA though, couple of strong ones myself
 
No need for scratching, two or three coats of weak PVA will do, one after the other, it will suck the PVA in so you won't have to wait,
Strong PVA no use on high suction


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Don't bother scratching the bonding the day after. Just diluted pva as the lads have said and if your keen on scratching? ? Then have a good scratch of your ball sack while you wait for the pva to dry in. If your customer is a tasty MILF then get her to do the scratching of your taaters for you !? (y)
 
Marshy said:
Don't bother scratching the bonding the day after. Just diluted pva as the lads have said and if your keen on scratching? ? Then have a good scratch of your ball sack while you wait for the pva to dry in. If your customer is a tasty MILF then get her to do the scratching of your taaters for you !? (y)
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Marshy is a drunk pervert.
 
Marshy said:
Don't bother scratching the bonding the day after. Just diluted pva as the lads have said and if your keen on scratching? ? Then have a good scratch of your ball sack while you wait for the pva to dry in. If your customer is a tasty MILF then get her to do the scratching of your taaters for you !? (y)
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Wicked that one...
Anyway on a serious note,can someone tell me what this PVA s**t is?
Never heard of it before.
Where could I buy it from?
Thanks Vince.
 
@ky12…you got a lot of good advice there all tried and tested…however, before you decide on the method, check out your bonding coat first thing and sue out the suction level expected, the bonding coat may just require a robust pass with your devil float ( nice on Danny ) regulate the depth if your screws on your float to desired depth, scrape off with the back of trowel…suction can be your friend or your worst enemy, sus out if you want PVA, or if your feeling fit, bang on a gauging…next time devil float before you shoot, saves you a load of hassle next day eh...
 
If multifinish sticks to plasterboard (which is smooth), why does the bonding need to be keyed? If the suction level is right will it not stick to it anyway?

Or is it just a best practice thing?
 
Exactly, the scratches won't do f**k all, don't care what anyone says, if there is the right amount of suction it'll stick regardless, not to mention if you pva it too, it aint going anywhere.

I do still scratch up base coats however as it looks professional to customer and takes off any high spots.
 
McBentLegs said:
Exactly, the scratches won't do f**k all, don't care what anyone says, if there is the right amount of suction it'll stick regardless, not to mention if you pva it too, it aint going anywhere.

I do still scratch up base coats however as it looks professional to customer and takes off any high spots.
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Lol all your customers plasterers?
 
If your straightening coat is still green then you won't get much suction…I suppose it a habit with me to devil float, just flattens it out so when you apply the finishing coat you don't get cats faces showing through…every spread has his own ways...
 
It provides a mechanical key it's that simple, if you have ever seen finish blow off in sheets it's because of the lack of key or non. Basics in the building game providing a mechanical key which is used in most trades from bricklaying through to painting.
 
@ flynnyman…I concur, thats the way I was taught and thats the way I elect to prep for my finishing coat...
 
It does provide a key yes but that's not the main reason it sticks, if that was the case it would blow from plasterboard all the time.

I do agree however it is beneficial and like you is how I was taught.
 
Not sure if is right to compare plasterboard and bonding surfaces. Two completely diferent games and the first one is always out of control, regarding suction .
 
McBentLegs said:
It does provide a key yes but that's not the main reason it sticks, if that was the case it would blow from plasterboard all the time.

I do agree however it is beneficial and like you is how I was taught.
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plasterboards are perforated and multi/board finish stick to this, as for no reason to scratch because suction will hold it ,what happens after a couple of year when suction is gone and it's dry as a bone ,as soon as paper stripper hits it it delaminates
 
Totally disagree, the suction doesn't work like that, it draws the gear into the wall as it's setting, when it's stuck, its stuck, how do you think render sticks to thermalites/celcons? they have f**k all key to them, it's the suction.

And going by your theory that plasterboard is perforated so allows the finish to stick, then what do you think hardwall/bonding is? a LOT more perforated that's for sure.
 
so why do you put a key in it for ? its not stuck, its sticks when its fresh and got moisture ,thermalites have a key and joints in brickwork form a key , board finish/multi is very fine and sticks in perforations bonding works on boards too as for hardwall this isnt for use on boards , plasterers have been putting a key on every thing for over hundred years and people like you who think they know best mess jobs up ,you carry on believing you don't need to key your work keeps old timers like me in work putting it correct .
 
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