rendaid

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henry

henry

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How far will rendaid go per bag if brushed on and will I have total suction control.
 
So what thickness do I need with rendaid 5mm, with the Micro gob which I never use is it the knauf product.
 
trowel it around 3mm and stipple it, the agg in it wont let you put it on too thin.
it will give you complete even sucky sucky as warrior says.
remember to leave it for three days min before you overcoat it
 
Well that was my next question how long to leave it , So do you think I could get away with applying 15 mm sand cement top coat or should say one coat of render over it and rule and sponge off. This is external works.
 
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Apply by trowel 3mm thick and use an artex roller to stipple it. You will need a heavy stipple to make it work. Rend-aid has some suction and it needs that suction to make the Mono etc adhere to it. I use it on most of my mono jobs and get up to 4m2 to the bag. Leave for at least 3 days. Wear old clothes, it will stick and ruin anything.

Does anyone know of a product like Rend-aid but does not need stippleing? Perhaps only a scratch. The problem I find with Rend-aid is the stipples are about 8-10mm high leaving only up to 7 mm between the peaks of the stipple and the face of the mono. It is easy to pick the stress patches up on scratching back and then it's game over. At the moment I am reducing the stipple where the stress patches go.
 
Rigsby said:
Apply by trowel 3mm thick and use an artex roller to stipple it. You will need a heavy stipple to make it work. Rend-aid has some suction and it needs that suction to make the Mono etc adhere to it. I use it on most of my mono jobs and get up to 4m2 to the bag. Leave for at least 3 days. Wear old clothes, it will stick and ruin anything.

Does anyone know of a product like Rend-aid but does not need stippleing? Perhaps only a scratch. The problem I find with Rend-aid is the stipples are about 8-10mm high leaving only up to 7 mm between the peaks of the stipple and the face of the mono. It is easy to pick the stress patches up on scratching back and then it's game over. At the moment I am reducing the stipple where the stress patches go.
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John it sounds like your gettin it on too thick , when you trowel it on you should be able to go over with any normal roller and it will leave about a 2-3mm high stipple, you can even put it on tight and then apply your mesh then roller and it leaves a bang on stipple finish , not too heavy or thin, John if you got the meterage, put it on with the machine, it only needs a really light spray fast as you can and then roller if you want, but don't have to.

The other option Henry is to use parex microgobetis, just put it on with a roller it's like bondit but for externals, and will take up to 40mm of render
 
stipple it sponk dont comb it, it needs as much as rough key as you can.

you can roll it straight on without using a trowel
 
You can just roller the gear on , weve done it in the past and got nearly ten metres outa a bag, but it depend on the substrate and what your puttin on it, don't think of it as a render but as a primer, unless you are gonna use it as a scratch, but there are cheaper options if thats the case , does that make sense, just use micro gob it's good gear
 
basically its an sbr slurry in a bag 7-8 mtrs nice gear like said stipple it rather than scratch henry why dont you try the weber ocr over the top mate
 
Well Monk it's like this £££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££ I am looking on e bay to see if there is any cheap
gear about. Sand and cement comes in a lot cheaper. Also your best doing what you underestand am all for trying something
new so have not ruled it out as yet. What is euromix like.
 
Dont I feel a **** cheers gary for keeping me on the right road. I was thinking of using anti sulphate render from sovchem but that is coming in at £8 plus vat a bag and dont think the labour would keep up with me with it having to be mix with a drill.
 
Thanks for the advice Warrior, after my current run in with Weber and their lying toe rag of a Yorkshire technical rep I now fully mesh all the rend-aid and then put the stress patches in the mono as well. God help this bloke if I get another crack in Weber and he tries to blame me for it! Yes it puts the cost up a lot but I would rather not get the job than chance another crack and get the s**t I am getting at the moment. Henry, rend-aid is sulphate resisting. This Micro Gob Paul, is it just a paint on primer and can anyone buy it? I tried moving over to Parex but they won't ring me back. Going to give SAS Europe a go.
 
Rigsby said:
Thanks for the advice Warrior, after my current run in with Weber and their lying toe rag of a Yorkshire technical rep I now fully mesh all the rend-aid and then put the stress patches in the mono as well. God help this bloke if I get another crack in Weber and he tries to blame me for it! Yes it puts the cost up a lot but I would rather not get the job than chance another crack and get the s**t I am getting at the moment. Henry, rend-aid is sulphate resisting. This Micro Gob Paul, is it just a paint on primer and can anyone buy it? I tried moving over to Parex but they won't ring me back. Going to give SAS Europe a go.
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Parex are hard work mate, sure you can get their gear through build centre and encon insulations, i got the number for the area rep if you want it mate, yes it is just a paint on primer buddy , they recon you can apply up to 40mm over this stuff
 
Rigsby said:
Thanks for the advice Warrior, after my current run in with Weber and their lying toe rag of a Yorkshire technical rep I now fully mesh all the rend-aid and then put the stress patches in the mono as well. God help this bloke if I get another crack in Weber and he tries to blame me for it! Yes it puts the cost up a lot but I would rather not get the job than chance another crack and get the s**t I am getting at the moment. Henry, rend-aid is sulphate resisting. This Micro Gob Paul, is it just a paint on primer and can anyone buy it? I tried moving over to Parex but they won't ring me back. Going to give SAS Europe a go.
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you can get parex over the counter up your way mate from at least 3 merchants. well leeds anyway - no need to ring them direct

I was up there today, just took a load of parmurex and a tub of micro gob, he had a pallet full of micro in stock.
 
it will kill alot of suction but there will be a little, onto block it should not slide but on smoother flatter surfaces it will be risky at anything over 10mm imo and it could well slide, that said you should get away with 10 or 12 mm only if you have sealed well with the micro gob
 
nick0412 said:
iv never had it slide
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a job we did had a couple of random smooth faced blocks in the middle so it coated up really heavy and with full coating due to no dimples in the surface or places where micro would go misty and after we had a slippy moment it was right on the edge of it is it isnt gonna go.
 
oh... well. i wont hear another bad word said about good old micro!!

iv never had a prob so far, a lot of the time we use it on bricks tho. and for re-skims. i no it says u shouldnt, but have u tried watering it down?
 
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