Rendering for mister fussy!

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jayjames

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hi, ive got a huge job i`m pricing for a very fussy guy, large semi-det house needs all gunning off then eml, He`s said he wants no cracks,whats the best way to get no shrinkage... i reckon he can afford stainless steel.
i always use sharp on 1st coat @ 3:1 then soft on top coat @ 5:1:1
any input would be cool!
 
A lot depends how it guns off, if it damages the brickwork i would three coat it, sbr slurry the brick work then fix s/s eml with s/s fixings and washers give it a tight pricking up coat 4-1 sharp sand then rule off a second coat 5-1 and scratch then a top coat of 6-1-1.
 
even done by the book there could be other factors that could lead to cracking mate
 
i wud do as church says but make sure you leave plenty o time between coats ,coat it up next day and you risk it cracking through shrinkage especially if your doing 3 coats,
 
if your using eml do you need to hack off,you might be able to fix straight on the existing render,is there a arcitect involed if so get his spec follow it to the letter then if any problems its down to him p.s. if you over lap the eml top, side's and bottom it wont crack i use it for old stone buildings down here and don't have any problems also galvanized is just as good and a lot cheaper(if its a big job you don't want to scare him off do you not the way work is at the moment) el tel
 
Where do you get your EML from tel and who makes it, cant get it where i am everyone uses chicken wire.
Lucius.
 
k thanks peeps, so slurry(SBR and neat cement??) the bare brick work then let it go off and eml over the top? then apply render.... does it grip ok to the cured slurry?? as i`ve seen a job where someone rib-lathed onto a painted wall then just rendered on top and it all blew and cracked, i thought it was cos the render didnt bond to the paint?
 
it should bond to the mesh the slurrys just to kill the suction, if in doubt use building paper before you put up the eml
 
Problem here is boys is that if you are pricing for the prince royal of jobs,every tom dick and harry are going to cheaper.

Why use sbr why not just give the bricks a long drink from the hosepipe ??
why use eml if were taking it back to the brick and the brick is sound ??

when you render a new job you dont sbr and eml so if the brickwork is sound whats the point ??
 
:) he has mentioned the eml.... and the customer is always right :).. i just dont want any come backs as he seems that kinda guy. i suppose until its gunned off i cant be sure of what it needs, its a heavy slopdash.
money isnt an issue, this guy does the telecom for stuff like bigbrother, i dont think he`d go with the cheapest price.
 
that is going to be one very expensive job. scaffold, gunning off can be a right pain so price accordingly, getting rid of the waste via skips, fixing the eml is a exhausting and time consuming job in its self etc etc etc etc.
 
Just to complicate things a little one school of thought which i read somewhere a while ago, cant remember where suggest not using EML, Rib Lathe etc at all as the different thermal movement between the metal and the render can actualy cause cracks, make your own mind up about that.
Lucius.
 
Yea i read this recently

Do not use chicken wire or metal lath to form a key as it can cause stress in the render due to differential thermal movements and can lead to large-scale failure, especially when it rusts.

Stainless is going to cost you a small fortune...maybe you could use some kind of fiber mesh in the scatch to be honest i would never gaurantee a sand/cement render its not a case of will it crack but when will it crack.

Best just wetting down the bricks, nice 4:1 scratch whack some lime and waterproofer in. Then give a couple of days to dry out in good weather then another 4:1 top coat with lime and waterproofer...another couple of good days to dry out then use a high quality weathershield paint and advise the customer to renew every couple of years.

Other option is to use a prebagged render like k-rend which is polymer modified. If hes got the cash and ure willing to give it a go...this is ure best bet.
 
Sounds about right Freed but personaly would use a slightly weaker mix on the top coat and not bother with the waterproofer on the top either as you are only using it on the first to hold back the suction.
Lucius
 
I use SBR waterproofer in both mixes m8 then u've got a uniform water resistant render. Each to their own though. Toughest part of the mix is a couple of good days weather ;)
 
i would rend aid it with mesh bedded into rend aid extra stress patches on corners off openings another tight coat rend aid scratched then topcoat
 
lucius i will ask in my buiders merchant's where they buy the eml from.tel
 
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