Reskim around doors

worthwords

Active Member
I wonder if you can help.
Utter notive but getting better.... I've done some DIY skimming, corner beading, reveals etc but not had to deal with wooden door frames.

This door in the picture is small downstairs toilet.
I think previous artex was reskimmed and went over the wood of the old door frame which lead to the problem dimples and a very uneven corner and a few cracks. There was no architrave.
I chipped off the problem areas of plaster around the door frame to reveal the original wood.

My understanding is that you really want an edge to plaster up to and don't want to paster over the wood itself
Any ideas about how to go about this when it's now recessed?

My initial idea was to attach some strip wood to the exisitng frame to bring the frame out. to plaster against and then if I wanted a simple arcitrave on top it would all be flush.


38796
 
I wonder if you can help.
Utter notive but getting better.... I've done some DIY skimming, corner beading, reveals etc but not had to deal with wooden door frames.

This door in the picture is small downstairs toilet.
I think previous artex was reskimmed and went over the wood of the old door frame which lead to the problem dimples and a very uneven corner and a few cracks. There was no architrave.
I chipped off the problem areas of plaster around the door frame to reveal the original wood.

My understanding is that you really want an edge to plaster up to and don't want to paster over the wood itself
Any ideas about how to go about this when it's now recessed?

My initial idea was to attach some strip wood to the exisitng frame to bring the frame out. to plaster against and then if I wanted a simple arcitrave on top it would all be flush.


View attachment 38796

If it’s only a few mm proud, then just feather the skim out. Put arch on and caulk the gap
If it’s quite deep, then plant a bit of wood on frame like you’ve suggested. I only tend to do that if I’ve dabbed plasterboard on but you come across all types of s**t in old houses.
 
It looks proud of the door frame .knock a bit of 5mm timber around the edge of the casing bond and feather skim into it
 
This is how i do it.
measure thickness of existing plaster plus 2mm for new skim.
get some timber strips this width by about 10mm.
tack all around frame leaving a six mm margin to edge of doorframe.
when skimmed fit new archatrave with a six mm margin to your new timber.
will look great.
 
This is how i do it.
measure thickness of existing plaster plus 2mm for new skim.
get some timber strips this width by about 10mm.
tack all around frame leaving a six mm margin to edge of doorframe.
when skimmed fit new archatrave with a six mm margin to your new timber.
will look great.
say again?
 
This is how i do it.
measure thickness of existing plaster plus 2mm for new skim.
get some timber strips this width by about 10mm.
tack all around frame leaving a six mm margin to edge of doorframe.
when skimmed fit new archatrave with a six mm margin to your new timber.
will look great.
Thanks, that's reassuring. Though i'm being a bit thick ... don't quite understand the 6mm margin.
 
Can I suggest a strip of wood on top of frame , , just in case its not been mentioned
 
Thanks, that's reassuring. Though i'm being a bit thick ... don't quite understand the 6mm margin.

He’s being a fancy pants mate. Instead of nailing the strip flush to the edge of the frame, you could set it back 6mm from m the edge a bit like you would when putting your architrave on. Making a feature of it so you end up with a fancier looking frame. I usually just set them flush. Fix it a hair past the edge of the frame, making sure you glue it as well as pin it. Leave it to settle for a few days, then carefully sand it flush with the frame. Bit of 2 part wood filler and a bit more sanding and it will be pretty much invisible.
 
Cba to read it all but xMM stripwood around frame. Skim it all flush. Ya rough sausage.

Personally id rip the frame out n put new one in if own house
 
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Cba to read it all but xMM stripwood around frame. Skim it all flush. Ya rough sausage.

Personally id rip the frame out n put new one in if own house
Excellent idea , any more lol
 
He’s being a fancy pants mate. Instead of nailing the strip flush to the edge of the frame, you could set it back 6mm from m the edge a bit like you would when putting your architrave on. Making a feature of it so you end up with a fancier looking frame. I usually just set them flush. Fix it a hair past the edge of the frame, making sure you glue it as well as pin it. Leave it to settle for a few days, then carefully sand it flush with the frame. Bit of 2 part wood filler and a bit more sanding and it will be pretty much invisible.
Looks shite flush and will look like a crack.
 
He’s being a fancy pants mate. Instead of nailing the strip flush to the edge of the frame, you could set it back 6mm from m the edge a bit like you would when putting your architrave on. Making a feature of it so you end up with a fancier looking frame. I usually just set them flush. Fix it a hair past the edge of the frame, making sure you glue it as well as pin it. Leave it to settle for a few days, then carefully sand it flush with the frame. Bit of 2 part wood filler and a bit more sanding and it will be pretty much invisible.
f**k**g settle for a few days?
 
Cba to read it all but xMM stripwood around frame. Skim it all flush. Ya rough sausage.

Personally id rip the frame out n put new one in if own house
cheers
I thought of that but it's a can of worms with the asbestos. All sorts of horrors.
 
Looks shite flush and will look like a crack.

It won’t crack if you glue it.

Yes, if you leave the door hinged as it was then it looks inset. It depends on the scenario and the type of lining, whether rebates or loose stops.
 
He’s being a fancy pants mate. Instead of nailing the strip flush to the edge of the frame, you could set it back 6mm from m the edge a bit like you would when putting your architrave on. Making a feature of it so you end up with a fancier looking frame. I usually just set them flush. Fix it a hair past the edge of the frame, making sure you glue it as well as pin it. Leave it to settle for a few days, then carefully sand it flush with the frame. Bit of 2 part wood filler and a bit more sanding and it will be pretty much invisible.
Ah great. Crystal clear. The standard and delux method.
 
He’s a diyer. If it’s glued, then it’s best left over night to dry properly before sanding back or a few days while the plaster is drying out.
Hang on, f**k**g diyer?
I'm not only a skilled artisan I'm an inventor too.
 
Highly unlikely they’ll be asbestos. Best way if you want to retain the look of the other frames without fudging around with the door.
Not the frame but the artex was used extensively for patching up things around the house it has a habit of doing this...

Reskim around doors

less disturbance the better.
 
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