Rib lath

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sidney

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When fixing riblath over smartply should I fix it right up to the edge of the walls or leave a gap for the edge bead? Also how thick is the total render coat likely to be ....20mm? And ( am I a pain in the arse?) if the weather isn't p***ing down will anyone render in mid October or is it likely to be frosty then? I think that's enough questions for my first post!!

Thanks
 
Hi Sidney, welcome , you can cut the rib lath as close as yo can to a wall or sofit etc and its best to put your angle or stop bead over the top of the lath however bell cast / drip beads can go on first, rendering in the colder months is a chance we all have to take you can use frost proofers if you want to but i dont really worry untill we get into the minus tempretures, you are looking at a total finishned thickness of 18-20 mm for two coat work and 20-25 for three coat work hope this helps
 
Thanks for the thorough reply Church. Just one other question, what dictates whether you uase 2 or 3 coat render? Or is this down to individual plasterers choice?

Thanks again
 
Thanks for the thorough reply Church. Just one other question, what dictates whether you uase 2 or 3 coat render? Or is this down to individual plasterers choice?

Thanks again
Pretty much all mortar renders are 2 coat work, 3 coat would be used on say an old brick work that needs dubbing out to get it straight, I try not to use Expanded metals these days (personal choice) i find that the render boards are better where metal would be used, fixed like plasterboard and a lot flatter and more rigid, Im not contradicting Church as he gave sound advice, this is my choice
 
2-3 coats work just depends how flat you can get the render also depends on how straight/flat the eml/ rib lath is to start with, the first coat onto is wire is hard to dub out at any thickiness before sagging/slumping will occur also different thicknesses in backing coats will produce different suctions / setting times for your top coat which will make for a patchy uneven finish , ive never rendered over render boards but to me any improvement to rendering over eml/riblath is not a bad idea ;)
 
Gents,
Thanks for your help. I can see I need to have a more indepth conversation with the plasterer about what he expects from me.
My main concern now is the windows. As we are replacing the wooden windows prior to rendering and need the render flush with the windows I was concerned about the 2-3 coat thickness as this would impact on how far out we put them, now it occurs to me I should have been worrying about the amount of wet render next to a wooden window! - perhaps a DPC between the window and its surrounding is the answer?
 
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