scratch coat
- Thread starter christ
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bigsegs
Guest
yes, if you need to build out to a thickness... say you needed 40 mil on... youd need 3 coats...
to be honest though... thats by the book and all that...
on jobs in the past where ive had to match up to an existing thickness i lay one on, let it go, lay another on, let it go... etc etc...
all depends on the suction levels, on old bricks it goes off like nothing on earth, new concrete blocks are a different story and youll end up layin another coat on day after...
thats just me though... there'll be a masssive difference of technique with the lads, church'll give you chapter and verse on it but me? although i like to know the technicalities etc.. what i actually do on site is down to experience, time, the job, money, mood and whether or not its friday afternoon...
to be honest though... thats by the book and all that...
on jobs in the past where ive had to match up to an existing thickness i lay one on, let it go, lay another on, let it go... etc etc...
all depends on the suction levels, on old bricks it goes off like nothing on earth, new concrete blocks are a different story and youll end up layin another coat on day after...
thats just me though... there'll be a masssive difference of technique with the lads, church'll give you chapter and verse on it but me? although i like to know the technicalities etc.. what i actually do on site is down to experience, time, the job, money, mood and whether or not its friday afternoon...
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bigsegs
Guest
to put it another way, if you aint got a great deal of suction, put it on too thick and it'll just slide off the wall again, youll get it splitting as its wet and on its way south... so you need to build it up...
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bigsegs
Guest
yeah, always scratch it best you can, specially with waterproofer in it... waterproofer will kill the suction, so therefore you lose the chemical key, scratching the undercoat gives you a mechanical key... think rendering over painted brick with exmet and without exmet.. which methods gonna stay on the wall?
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bigsegs
Guest
yeah, in practice... but the theory will say otherwise... like... it'll crack if... etc.... btw 'red brick'.. 'red' is just a colour and 'bricks' can be a massive variation in suction... engineering reds are gonna want exmet... its down to the hardness of the bricks, a real soft brick will suck like a pro, old lbc commons for example but you might find new lbc commons freshly laid will be a different story cos they still got a high moisture content... experience again... im statin the obvious here but it might not be obvious to some... not havin a go at you mate.. 
in fact a lot of the time it pays to get the hosepipe before you start, in fact a stiff brush before that...
then hose the wall down till its dripping wet.. then lay your scratch on or it'll go off as sson as it leaves the trowel...
thats always old refurb work though... never on new concrete blocks..
the way i learnt to render was small areas, patch up doorways, garage ends that sort of thing...
a big house gable wants experience, scaffold and 3 lads..
and people moan like f'ck when you tell em its 35 quid a metre... let someone else have the job if they moan, wait a month and put a flyer through their door that says 'hack off and re-render 40 quid a metre'
in fact a lot of the time it pays to get the hosepipe before you start, in fact a stiff brush before that...
then hose the wall down till its dripping wet.. then lay your scratch on or it'll go off as sson as it leaves the trowel...
thats always old refurb work though... never on new concrete blocks..
the way i learnt to render was small areas, patch up doorways, garage ends that sort of thing...
a big house gable wants experience, scaffold and 3 lads..
and people moan like f'ck when you tell em its 35 quid a metre... let someone else have the job if they moan, wait a month and put a flyer through their door that says 'hack off and re-render 40 quid a metre'
s**t builder!
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bigsegs
Guest
dunno bout hackin off as well for 35 quid but 10 metres of rendering is bugger all really... 2 half days 1+1?
Id stick access on top too if needed...
64 quid doesnt sound too expensive to me though, not if your hackin off and spraying as well (im assuming its a polymer weatherproofing)... if you got the machine to do it with, might as well make it pay.... and hacking off can go one way or the other... then you gotta get rid of the 'hardcore'
the hack off and rerender 40 quid was a bit of a laff really...
Id stick access on top too if needed...
64 quid doesnt sound too expensive to me though, not if your hackin off and spraying as well (im assuming its a polymer weatherproofing)... if you got the machine to do it with, might as well make it pay.... and hacking off can go one way or the other... then you gotta get rid of the 'hardcore'
the hack off and rerender 40 quid was a bit of a laff really...
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nicksey1401
Guest
it'd be interesting to be on the receiving end of quotes for hack off and re-render .......i bet they'd vary sh*tloads, how do you price a hack off ? sometimes it falls off othertimes it wont budge so you could lose out or do very well or price it a bit over for a cushion :-/
evening all....always a tricky one. i always work out what the job as if it was a straight render. then tell customer that i can give a price to hack off or do it on day work saying what i expect to hack off in a day.. also explaining the possible pit falls that i might encounter. rock solid render, damaged bricks, badly cracked blocks or if any lead needs redressing. if they insist on price i cover worst case. you don't want get caught out. admittedly it can add up... pay peanuts you get.....
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