Skimming combined old and new sufaces

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messy

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I would like some advice on skimming the small area in the photo.
I am not a plasterer but I have skimmed new plaster boarded areas before with acceptable results and also done dry lining
I have had problems in the past with obtaining a decent finish on old but sound surfaces though.
Having stripped the area in photo I foresee problems ahead!
There will be 2 different surfaces with different rates of absorption plus a painted surface and a thick covering of wallpaper glue.
I am seeking advice on the best way to prepare the surface evenly for skimming.
Should I first of all try to remove all the glue with sugar soap or does the glue actually help?
What should I build up the door area first to make it flat - would "one -coat" do?
Should I them cover the entire area with something like "Wickes ready mixed bonding agent" to provide even suction throughout and a stable surface.
I have a bag thistle board finish for skimming but should I use something else?
Any help and advice on these questions would much appreciated please.
 

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Christ.
Are you an engineer or something similar?
I admire your preparation as you want to get it right.
Your best off using grip coat or similar which you brush over the wall and allow to dry.
This will even the suction a little.
Personally I'd use uni finish but as your not a pro I'd stick to the grip coat.
Dust off your areas.
Wet down around the door way and use Hardwall to level off.
Don't trowel the Hardwall smooth just make sure it's flat.
Allow to dry overnight or longer.
Then apply grip coat/bond it or similar.
Allow to dry overnight.
Apply your multi finish.
Job done.
 
Hi there
Thanks to both of you for your replies.
Fatarm:
I would use dot and dab boards if I could, but there is a door way to the right of the photo ( out of shot ) which prevents this as there is insufficient depth ( only 12mm to work with)
Jgreenplastering:
I will try to follow your advice
"grip coat" is that the same as blue grit?
"Hardwall" _ it won't start to crack as there is a grit coat layer right?
how thick should this layer be?
 
messy said:
Hi there
Thanks to both of you for your replies.
Fatarm:
I would use dot and dab boards if I could, but there is a door way to the right of the photo ( out of shot ) which prevents this as there is insufficient depth ( only 12mm to work with)
Jgreenplastering:
I will try to follow your advice
"grip coat" is that the same as blue grit?
"Hardwall" _ it won't start to crack as there is a grit coat layer right?
how thick should this layer be?
Click to expand...

Yes grip coat is the same as blue grit just different makes.
Hardwall goes on first.
You could Pva the background to give you more time but just a good wet down should help.
Apply the Hardwall and then use a straight edge to rule off and flatten to existing wall.

Leave to dry overnight and then apply the grip coat.
 
Make sure your plasterboard is in line with the existing wall,pva the whole wall and leave over night. Place scrim over the plasterboard join meeting the wall then mix half a bucket of multi finish with 3-4 handfulls of thistle bonding coat mixed in. Use a 3 foot piece of wood to screed the wall where it needs levelling and then cover the whole wall with the rest of your mix @ 2/3 mm Let this dry for 2/3 hours then skim on top with just multi finish.
 
theplasterman:
I used Adobe Photoshop the text is on a different layer and the crude arrows a sketched in on another layer using a wacom tablet, you can get free software to do the same thing
"And why not pay a plasterer it would be done in a few hours"
Good point
I have are the gear to do it such as electric mixer and paddle, marshall trowel, buckets etc leftover from an extension build, I should put it them good use as there will be further areas which will need attention.
 
jamesthefirst: thank you for an alternative approach
(as there is no room to board it out as dot and dab is too thick)
 
Could you not hack back to brick to give you the depth to dot n dab. Skimming over board will give you the best chance of a good finish As a DIYer
 
Pa
Jgreenplastering said:
Christ.
Are you an engineer or something similar?
I admire your preparation as you want to get it right.
Your best off using grip coat or similar which you brush over the wall and allow to dry.
This will even the suction a little.
Personally I'd use uni finish but as your not a pro I'd stick to the grip coat.
Dust off your areas.
Wet down around the door way and use Hardwall to level off.
Don't trowel the Hardwall smooth just make sure it's flat.
Allow to dry overnight or longer.
Then apply grip coat/bond it or similar.
Allow to dry overnight.
Apply your multi finish.
Job done.
Click to expand...
Parklife:D
 
messy said:
theplasterman:
I used Adobe Photoshop the text is on a different layer and the crude arrows a sketched in on another layer using a wacom tablet, you can get free software to do the same thing
"And why not pay a plasterer it would be done in a few hours"
Good point
I have are the gear to do it such as electric mixer and paddle, marshall trowel, buckets etc leftover from an extension build, I should put it them good use as there will be further areas which will need attention.
Click to expand...
Ok fare enough..hope it goes ok
 
"Could you not hack back to brick to give you the depth to dot n dab. Skimming over board will give you the best chance of a good finish As a DIYer"
But then again, I could f*** up and then do that!
 
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