Specific drywall installation issues

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Morning_Glory

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I must fix drywall onto my ceiling and I have two problems that are related.

First, there are 50 mm thick foam insulation boards fixed on my ceiling already and this means that the drywall must be on top of them (well, below actually). This, in turn, means that the screws must be very long.

I could not find screws that are both long and thin. The thinnest screw that can go 25 mm into the timber is at least 5 mm thick. It is 90 mm long as the insulation is 50 mm and the drywall is 15 mm: 50 plus 15 plus 25 equals 90.

Why 15 mm thick drywall?

That is the second problem: the joists are 600 mm (0,6m) apart and putting extra wood between them is not an option (because the foam boards cannot be removed and I don’t have access to the loft space). As far as I know, the drywall must be at least 15 mm thick in order not to sag when the span is 600 mm.

Given that I need about 10 screws per square meter of drywall and that the joists are 600 mm apart, I must drive the screws about 170 mm apart; that makes 7 screws per 1200 mm (1,2m) of joist instead of 3 to 4.

Putting 5 mm thick screws so close to each other may split the joists. Thicker screws also transfer more heat.
One solution I consider is to use shorter and thinner screws, say 4,5 mm by 85 mm. Believe it or not, half a mm makes a difference re splitting a joist. (I experimented.) However, 4,5 by 85mm will go no more than 20 mm into the timber (if that).

So, I will end up with extra heavy drywall fixed with extra shallow screws. This doesn’t sound like a good combination, but when I experimented driving a screw less than 20 mm into the timber, it turned out that a single one can hold my weight (100 kg). That seems more than sufficient given that the whole 2,4 by 1,2m drywall weighs no more than 25 kg and will be fixed with almost 30 screws.

Does this mean that I can proceed using the 85 mm screws, placing them 170 mm apart to fix 15 mm thick drywall?
 
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I must fix drywall onto my ceiling and I have two problems that are related.
First, there are 50 mm thick foam insulation boards fixed on my ceiling already and this means that the drywall must be on top of them (well, below actually). This, in turn, means that the screws must be very long. I could not find screws that are both long and thin. The thinnest screw that can go 25 mm into the timber is at least 5 mm thick. It is 90 mm long as the insulation is 50 mm and the drywall is 15 mm: 50 plus 15 plus 25 equals 90.
Why 15 mm thick drywall? That is the second problem: the joists are 600 mm (0,6m) apart and putting extra wood between them is not an option (because the foam boards cannot be removed and I don’t have access to the loft space). As far as I know, the drywall must be at least 15 mm thick in order not to sag when the span is 600 mm. Given that I need about 10 screws per square meter of drywall and that the joists are 600 mm apart, I must drive the screws about 170 mm apart; that makes 7 screws per 1200 mm (1,2m) of joist instead of 3 to 4. Putting 5 mm thick screws so close to each other may split the joists. Thicker screws also transfer more heat.
One solution I consider is to use shorter and thinner screws, say 4,5 mm by 85 mm. Believe it or not, half a mm makes a difference re splitting a joist. (I experimented.) However, 4,5 by 85mm will go no more than 20 mm into the timber (if that). So, I will end up with extra heavy drywall fixed with extra shallow screws. This doesn’t sound like a good combination, but when I experimented driving a screw less than 20 mm into the timber, it turned out that a single one can hold my weight (100 kg). That seems more than sufficient given that the whole 2,4 by 1,2m drywall weighs no more than 25 kg and will be fixed with almost 30 screws. Does this mean that I can proceed using the 85 mm screws, placing them 170 mm apart to fix 15 mm thick drywall?
Wow talk about overthinking something. Just buy some screws and put the board up lol. I mean if you're really THAT concerned with joists splitting then drill holes up first with a couple of mm woodbit. You'd be completely wasting your time though
 
Wow talk about overthinking something. Just buy some screws and put the board up lol. I mean if you're really THAT concerned with joists splitting then drill holes up first with a couple of mm woodbit. You'd be completely wasting your time though
I don't think that predrilling will work because of the 50 mm insulation. It has to be a long drill going through foam that is not exactly solid and there's no guarantee that the screw will go into the tiny hole after going through all this insulation again. Besides, this will complicate the fixing.
 
put a mf ceiling innif your that worried or take the originall ceiling down.

there has been many times on sloped ceiling there has been a overlay of celotex across the rafters. so we put washers on the screws sndngo through the celotex with long drywall screws
 
I must fix drywall onto my ceiling and I have two problems that are related.
First, there are 50 mm thick foam insulation boards fixed on my ceiling already and this means that the drywall must be on top of them (well, below actually). This, in turn, means that the screws must be very long. I could not find screws that are both long and thin. The thinnest screw that can go 25 mm into the timber is at least 5 mm thick. It is 90 mm long as the insulation is 50 mm and the drywall is 15 mm: 50 plus 15 plus 25 equals 90.
Why 15 mm thick drywall? That is the second problem: the joists are 600 mm (0,6m) apart and putting extra wood between them is not an option (because the foam boards cannot be removed and I don’t have access to the loft space). As far as I know, the drywall must be at least 15 mm thick in order not to sag when the span is 600 mm. Given that I need about 10 screws per square meter of drywall and that the joists are 600 mm apart, I must drive the screws about 170 mm apart; that makes 7 screws per 1200 mm (1,2m) of joist instead of 3 to 4. Putting 5 mm thick screws so close to each other may split the joists. Thicker screws also transfer more heat.
One solution I consider is to use shorter and thinner screws, say 4,5 mm by 85 mm. Believe it or not, half a mm makes a difference re splitting a joist. (I experimented.) However, 4,5 by 85mm will go no more than 20 mm into the timber (if that). So, I will end up with extra heavy drywall fixed with extra shallow screws. This doesn’t sound like a good combination, but when I experimented driving a screw less than 20 mm into the timber, it turned out that a single one can hold my weight (100 kg). That seems more than sufficient given that the whole 2,4 by 1,2m drywall weighs no more than 25 kg and will be fixed with almost 30 screws. Does this mean that I can proceed using the 85 mm screws, placing them 170 mm apart to fix 15 mm thick drywall?
Don't copy the same board pattern as the celotex
 
put a mf ceiling innif your that worried or take the originall ceiling down.

there has been many times on sloped ceiling there has been a overlay of celotex across the rafters. so we put washers on the screws sndngo through the celotex with long drywall screws


Thank you for the advice, but I don't know what "mf ceiling in" is.

I cannot put the original ceiling down as it is part of the loft space which is communal. All I can do is what can be done within my own flat and that is fixing drywall on top of the celotex. (I believe that by celotex you mean what I call foam boards.)

The celotex is fixed with long screws with washers on them. The question is how to fix the drywall without removing the celotex given that the celotex is 50 mm thick and that the distance between the joists is 600 mm.
 
I don't think that predrilling will work because of the 50 mm insulation. It has to be a long drill going through foam that is not exactly solid and there's no guarantee that the screw will go into the tiny hole after going through all this insulation again. Besides, this will complicate the fixing.
Well as I said it's not needed anyway. Just put some screws in, and stop worrying
 
The celotex foam boards and the drywall boards are the same size: 2,4 by 1,2m. Do you mean that I should not put a drywall board over a celotex board but should make sure that they end on different joists?
Yes , also the length joints if possible . mark the existing joist position's
It
Would agree with this suggestion
I like it , if you're not worried about depth , need to make sure ithe cavity is reasonably airtight , need a good tape for the celotex that sticks permanently , no holes , any suggestions
 
Yes , also the length joints if possible . mark the existing joist position's
It
I like it , if you're not worried about depth , need to make sure ithe cavity is reasonably airtight , need a good tape for the celotex that sticks permanently , no holes , any suggestions
Surely the board joints should be mid-joist?
 
Yes , also the length joints if possible . mark the existing joist position's
It
I like it , if you're not worried about depth , need to make sure ithe cavity is reasonably airtight , need a good tape for the celotex that sticks permanently , no holes , any suggestions
The existing joist positions are marked. What do you mean by "also the legth joints if possible"?

About the cavity, do you mean the cavity that will be between the celotex and the drywall?
 
What is to MF it?
Metal ferring. It’s a drywall system .best way to explain is it’s like a suspended ceiling made from tin that you fix your plasterboard too. Most merchants sell it . It’s made by various manufacturers. Knauf, British gypsum etc. Best too look on you tube to give you an idea on how to install . There are 3 types of metal to the system. Perimeter track, top hat , main bar . They all have specific numbers but not sure of them . You basically fix perimeter track and get it level . Then you fix hangers to existing ceiling joists , then you fix a supporting bar to the hangers then you fix your top hat (metal joists) at 450 centers to the supporting bar. Then fix your boards to them . Or something like that
 
Two problems with the metal ferring. First, it is not designed to be fit on top of celotex. Second, it will lower my ceiling which is not high as it is. Is there anything wrong with just using a thicker drywall between joists that are 600 mm apart?
 
Two problems with the metal ferring. First, it is not designed to be fit on top of celotex. Second, it will lower my ceiling which is not high as it is. Is there anything wrong with just using a thicker drywall between joists that are 600 mm apart?
Bead of no nonsense cheap silicone down center line between the joists , make sure it's warm, will glue board to celotex and help prevent long term sagging
Splitting the board pattern lengthways , if you got 1/2 sheet celotex on one side of room put a full sheet of board .
 
Thank you Bof. Isn't increasing the thickness of the drywall enough to prevent sagging?
It's better but most important is insulation , cold boards absorb moisture and sag more , as I mentioned if you had the space for batten or metal it's important that the gap is sealed to stop cold air from loft being drawn in and then it condensates on back of board
 
Just put the boards up lol. This many comments over boarding a ceiling. World's gone mad
 
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If you get some wood screws like these the slotted-end is designed to remove the wood fibers as it starts entering the wood and thus minimizes the risk of cracking.
 
It's better but most important is insulation , cold boards absorb moisture and sag more , as I mentioned if you had the space for batten or metal it's important that the gap is sealed to stop cold air from loft being drawn in and then it condensates on back of board
I don't think this is an issue because the space above where the drywall will be is insulated well. First, there's the 50 mm celotex, then two thick layers of fibreglass. The boards will not be colder than the air in the room and so there should not be any condensation within or above them.

So, I guess that my question is: will 15 mm drywall sag under its own weight if the span is 600 mm? (It will carry nothing but its own weight.)
 
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