mikeadams1985
Private Member
Before i start, a little disclaimer.
This is the method i use, there are various other methods out there, i like this method.
The moulding used for the illustration in this guide, is not a finished product! i did all this in about 30 minutes so i could get it typed up to show Ryan (arris plastering)
Ive set this up to show a straight wall that then goes into a curve then back into a straight wall.
Step 1
Find the curved wall you wish to copy.For this example ive just randomly bent a pice of plasterboard and screwed it to some mdf to hold its shape
Step 2
Get a straight stick, i use a piece of batten. The length of the batten varies, depending on the curve.
For this curve i found 24" was perfect.
Step 3
Mark the dead centre of your batten with a nice line, at 90 to the length of the batten
Step 4
Using your batter, hold the batten against the flat straight part of wall on the left hand size of the curve, Level horizontally, and slide(sliding to the right) it along the wall towards the curve untill a gap starts to appear between the batten and the wall. This is where the curve in your wall starts. put a mark on the wall at the end of the battern (the far right). Repeat this step but going from the straight section on the right hand side towards the curve going left now, then mark it.
You will end up with 2 marks ont he wall, these both indicate where the wall starts to curve and is no longer a straight section of wall.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k6j3p6ulxgpstrl/2013-12-31 14.34.42.mp4 - Video
Step 5
Place your batten, on the curved section of wall(inside the marked lines)m holding the batter horizontally level, using a tape measure measure the distance in the dead centre of the batten (previously marked) to the wall, my first measure was 17mm.
Repeat this step as many times as possible, were are seeking an average measurment for the gap along the wall.
I did 3 measurements(as it was a short curve), measuring 17mm, 19mm, and 18mm. So i went with 18mm as an average. You will get some that may go for example, 20mm, 28mm, 20 mm, etc, no wall is a perfect curve, but what you will make to fit against the wall WILL BE A PERFECT CURVE.
Step 6
AUTOCAD - Ok so now we head over to the computer, and what we need to draw on auto cad is a straight line measuring 24" and then in the dead centre of this line, a line coming off it at 90Degrees measuring 18mm.
Step 7
Autocad - Ok, so we no have the lines draw, what we want to do next, is draw a circle, but using a 3 point method, You simple select the tool, then select the Start of the batten line, the tip of the 18mm line and then the end of the batten line. Autocad will now draw a big Ass circle.
Step 8
Get the radius of the circle, so now the simple part, click the circle and hit properties and it tells you the circles radius.
This is the magic number we have been after, All this work just for that hey! OUR RADIUS IS 98.8 INCHES or 2509MM if your me and prefer mm
Step 9
Using the magic number form above 2509MM, you want to set up a gig stick attached to your moulding.
Measure from the section of the moulding that will touch the wall, and measure out along a gig stick the magic number, put a mark on the gig stick.
Step 10
Drill a hole using a 10mm drill bit thru the gig stick at the magic mark (technically the hole centre of the hole should be perfectly inline with the face of the zinc profile) But i was rushing here!
Now, Drill a 10mm hole in your bench, and using the 10mm drill bit stick it in the hole but leave it hanging out a coupel of inches.
Step 11
Your hole previously drilled in your gig stick should slide over the drill bit stuck in the bench, allowing you to run your panel mould in a curve that matches the wall perfectly
Step 12
SPIN YOUR MOULD!
and it should look like this....
AGAIN THIS WAS A RUSHED JOB, DONT IN-BETWEEN MY ACTUAL WORKING DAY SO I COULD SHOW RYAN HOW ITS DONE.
The actual finish of the run mould, etc etc is not that of a finished product, just to show the process.
This is the method i use, there are various other methods out there, i like this method.
The moulding used for the illustration in this guide, is not a finished product! i did all this in about 30 minutes so i could get it typed up to show Ryan (arris plastering)
Ive set this up to show a straight wall that then goes into a curve then back into a straight wall.
Step 1
Find the curved wall you wish to copy.For this example ive just randomly bent a pice of plasterboard and screwed it to some mdf to hold its shape
Step 2
Get a straight stick, i use a piece of batten. The length of the batten varies, depending on the curve.
For this curve i found 24" was perfect.
Step 3
Mark the dead centre of your batten with a nice line, at 90 to the length of the batten
Step 4
Using your batter, hold the batten against the flat straight part of wall on the left hand size of the curve, Level horizontally, and slide(sliding to the right) it along the wall towards the curve untill a gap starts to appear between the batten and the wall. This is where the curve in your wall starts. put a mark on the wall at the end of the battern (the far right). Repeat this step but going from the straight section on the right hand side towards the curve going left now, then mark it.
You will end up with 2 marks ont he wall, these both indicate where the wall starts to curve and is no longer a straight section of wall.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k6j3p6ulxgpstrl/2013-12-31 14.34.42.mp4 - Video
Step 5
Place your batten, on the curved section of wall(inside the marked lines)m holding the batter horizontally level, using a tape measure measure the distance in the dead centre of the batten (previously marked) to the wall, my first measure was 17mm.
Repeat this step as many times as possible, were are seeking an average measurment for the gap along the wall.
I did 3 measurements(as it was a short curve), measuring 17mm, 19mm, and 18mm. So i went with 18mm as an average. You will get some that may go for example, 20mm, 28mm, 20 mm, etc, no wall is a perfect curve, but what you will make to fit against the wall WILL BE A PERFECT CURVE.
Step 6
AUTOCAD - Ok so now we head over to the computer, and what we need to draw on auto cad is a straight line measuring 24" and then in the dead centre of this line, a line coming off it at 90Degrees measuring 18mm.
Step 7
Autocad - Ok, so we no have the lines draw, what we want to do next, is draw a circle, but using a 3 point method, You simple select the tool, then select the Start of the batten line, the tip of the 18mm line and then the end of the batten line. Autocad will now draw a big Ass circle.
Step 8
Get the radius of the circle, so now the simple part, click the circle and hit properties and it tells you the circles radius.
This is the magic number we have been after, All this work just for that hey! OUR RADIUS IS 98.8 INCHES or 2509MM if your me and prefer mm
Step 9
Using the magic number form above 2509MM, you want to set up a gig stick attached to your moulding.
Measure from the section of the moulding that will touch the wall, and measure out along a gig stick the magic number, put a mark on the gig stick.
Step 10
Drill a hole using a 10mm drill bit thru the gig stick at the magic mark
(technically the hole centre of the hole should be perfectly inline with the face of the zinc profile) But i was rushing here!Now, Drill a 10mm hole in your bench, and using the 10mm drill bit stick it in the hole but leave it hanging out a coupel of inches.
Step 11
Your hole previously drilled in your gig stick should slide over the drill bit stuck in the bench, allowing you to run your panel mould in a curve that matches the wall perfectly
Step 12
SPIN YOUR MOULD!
and it should look like this....
AGAIN THIS WAS A RUSHED JOB, DONT IN-BETWEEN MY ACTUAL WORKING DAY SO I COULD SHOW RYAN HOW ITS DONE.
The actual finish of the run mould, etc etc is not that of a finished product, just to show the process.
