Stairwell ceiling and walls

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redders

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Can someone clear this up for me please?

1) What type of board for a stairwell ceiling; fireline, 12.5mm board, 9.5mm board?
2) What thickness is needed to comply with building regs?
3) When drylining the walls down the stairwell via dot and dab, how do you cater for the angle of the the stair case risers (picture attached - which is best A or B)?

Thanks folks.
 

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Wouldnt of said it matters to much mate, what ever gets the most out of your boards, as long as theyre staggered.
Id be inclined to dab all your full boards first then drop back and use your off cuts to fill out where the stringers are.
 
Start at the bottom make a template and try and keep the horizontal joints matching so it's easier to do you're top row of boards
 
use 12.5mm.and like the others say stagger and get a template with an off cut.for fireline make sure all edging sealed with fireline mastic and skim
 
Mark a horizontal line then a vertical line to make a large +:RpS_thumbup: sign on the stairwell wall. That will give you something to measure off to do your template. It also scares off vampires apparently :-0
 
For the cuts I but the bottom board up to the string. Roughly measure across to the stringer from the board to 1200 if using 8x4s. Then mark the stringer, put a level from this mark across to the board, get your line horizontal. This gives you the height of your cut and the offcut goes next to the 2nd board and allows a full board to sit on top. Do this all the way up the stairs.
 
bubbles65 said:
Mark a horizontal line then a vertical line to make a large +:RpS_thumbup: sign on the stairwell wall. That will give you something to measure off to do your template. It also scares off vampires apparently :-0
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but attracts RPG shells................:RpS_scared:
 
Some walls would be better with an RPG fired at them :RpS_scared:


and your vertical line (starting point) will depend on the location of any windows too - you don't want a half-inch strip on the corner of the window :RpS_thumbup:
 
Don't over think the thing!
redders said:
Can someone clear this up for me please?

1) What type of board for a stairwell ceiling; fireline, 12.5mm board, 9.5mm board?
2) What thickness is needed to comply with building regs?
3) When drylining the walls down the stairwell via dot and dab, how do you cater for the angle of the the stair case risers (picture attached - which is best A or B)?

Thanks folks.
Click to expand...
 
Have seen cracks develope over time between 2400 x 1200 boards. What's the general consensus on the best way to stop them from happening? Fibre tape or paper tape embedded in plaster?
 
essexandy said:
"A" may be easier but "B" keeps the joints further away from the floor level which is where cracks are more likely to occur, and don't think for one minute that these don't happen with drylining as I've seen them many times.
Easier isn't always best.
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What a load of b*ll***s if its gonna crack, where you put the board doesnt matter aslong as you have staggered the joints which will reduce the chance. Starting with a full board resting on the wall to the left then another full board sitting tight to that then youve got your measurements for your triangles, like whats been said dont complicate it, its simple. xxx
 
redders said:
Have seen cracks develope over time between 2400 x 1200 boards. What's the general consensus on the best way to stop them from happening? Fibre tape or paper tape embedded in plaster?
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If it's new-build, let the building settle for a year. ..........but that won't happen:-0
 
flynnyman said:
What a load of b*ll***s if its gonna crack, where you put the board doesnt matter aslong as you have staggered the joints which will reduce the chance. Starting with a full board resting on the wall to the left then another full board sitting tight to that then youve got your measurements for your triangles, like whats been said dont complicate it, its simple. xxx
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Well you're a mod and I'm not so you must be right I stand corrected, although I'll also carry on doing it the way I do.
 
essexandy said:
Well you're a mod and I'm not so you must be right I stand corrected, although I'll also carry on doing it the way I do.
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LOL do it how you feel comfey doing it, im sure coz im a mod it wont change your mind, but please explain your reasons for saying " keeping the joints further away from the floor level which is where cracks are more likely to occur" then you wont sound so childish on this post, and i will hold my hands up and say "your right andy i never thought of that" xxxxxx
 
flynnyman said:
What a load of b*ll***s if its gonna crack, where you put the board doesnt matter aslong as you have staggered the joints which will reduce the chance. Starting with a full board resting on the wall to the left then another full board sitting tight to that then youve got your measurements for your triangles, like whats been said dont complicate it, its simple. xxx
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i agree.
 
flynnyman said:
LOL do it how you feel comfey doing it, im sure coz im a mod it wont change your mind, but please explain your reasons for saying " keeping the joints further away from the floor level which is where cracks are more likely to occur" then you wont sound so childish on this post, and i will hold my hands up and say "your right andy i never thought of that" xxxxxx
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On some stairwalls the ends of the joists bear onto the blockwork on top of these there is sometimes a plate sometimes not but either way this is the most likely place for a crack to occur. On other stairwalls although there aren't any joists coming through the blockwork the wall will almost certainly have been built up to floor level first before the blockwork is carried up at a later stage, this point where the ground floor blockwork meets the first floor is also more likely to crack than any other part of the wall. To limit the chances of getting these cracks coming through onto the finished surface I always fix EML to all stairwalls at these points when wet plastering and because the joints on a drylined system are the weakest/most likely point to crack I avoid if at all possible having horizontal joints fall across these areas.
Here's another example I've come across recently.
A vertical structural steel halfway along a block wall. Now would you allow two boards to abut near the point where the steel and the blocks meet? I'd certainly hope not and although that is a bit more extreme than the stairwall example both are points that cracks are more likely to occur and I feel it's part of my job to take measures to lessen the likelihood of this happening, if you don't then crack on.
 
Flinney will you stop kissing people it realy sucks, you have a pop at someone then throw some xxxs at them as if it didnt matter, get a grip man no one likes you know so snogging wont change that xx
 
spunky said:
I love it when flynnys wrong he gets so emotional x
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LOL Andy is digging himself an even bigger hole with this cock and bull lol Its a fully blocked wall thats why its all being dabbed tut tut try and pull the wool over someone elses eyes andy xxxxxx
 
lucius said:
Flinney will you stop kissing people it realy sucks, you have a pop at someone then throw some xxxs at them as if it didnt matter, get a grip man no one likes you know so snogging wont change that xx
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Me have a pop at someone? surely you have me mixed up with someone else xxxxx
 
flynnyman said:
LOL Andy is digging himself an even bigger hole with this cock and bull lol Its a fully blocked wall thats why its all being dabbed tut tut try and pull the wool over someone elses eyes andy xxxxxx
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Just goes to show you don't know as much as you think you do mate. I have no reason to bother pulling wool over anyones eyes and as for hole digging, I had enough of doing that all day yesterday.
 
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