supporting plasterboard between ceiling joists to avoid cracks from appearing later

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messy

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Is it necessary to support plasterboard between joists (350mm to 400mm spacings) with 4x2" softwood noggins (and also fix the board with drywall screws into the noggins) or is okay to just tape bond the joints
 
I think that size spacing is ok without noggings myself but it depends on the strength of the joists and the straightness also, some do 600 spacing ,which I find ridiculous ,300 spacing is my ideal though,one screw every 150 mm
 
Asif..............if 300mm is your ideal spacing why are you telling this bloke that it's alright going [up to] 400 mm unsupported?
 
I see it all the time now in basements, 400 mm spacing sometimes 600 ,problem as you are right to point out is there is a weakness in that amount of space but its perfectly legal and building control will pass it, I would not want it for my self in a house I was doing, too much saving money and not making sense is the way of today,just boarded a timber frame house recently as the carpenters and labourers could not do it, the joists although 300 were only sitting on the purloin by 30/40 mm , seemingly the timber frame peopl guarantee their work and building control do not get involved, yes last word to you noggings would be sensible..
 
messy said:
Is it necessary to support plasterboard between joists (350mm to 400mm spacings) with 4x2" softwood noggins (and also fix the board with drywall screws into the noggins) or is okay to just tape bond the joints
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Hi there, as said all edges of the PB should be supported, assuming you are fixing the boards counter to the joists then I would recommend noggins at 600 centers between the joists runing for the whole span of the ceiling, dry wall screws are the ones, 32 mm minimum the heads pulled into the PB by approx 1 mm, if a screw head penetrates the paper through to the plaster core then put another screw in about 25 mm from it, for ceilings screw at 150 to 175 centers, once you have screwed a board up, run the top of a hammer along the screw lines, if you hear a clunk or metalic sound then the screw(s) are protruding and will need a bit of a turn to get them just below the PB face, if a plasterer is going to skim the ceiling he will not like it! If it's just the joints you want to tape, fil,l sand and paint then use tapered edge boards , for skimming use square edge boards, do not scrim let the plasterer do that.
Stagger the boards when fitting.

Hope this helps

Lozzy
 
400mm centres are fine for 12mm boards with no noggins and 6oomm centres for 15mm boards, 600mm centres must have noggins if 12mm board is used and these noggins screwed into.
 
Have put up acres of 12.5 mm ceiling on 600 centers all round with noggins at 600 and perimiter noggins, never had any problems or moans, the key is to get the screws just slightly recessed but not to much and at 90 degrees to the face of the board and making sure that the face of the noggins are dead flush with the joists, and don't use damp plasterboard, it's crap and it does yer muscles in on ceilings.
In the days before collated screw guns became widespread I would screw the scews up flush with the board with a cordless driver and bit and my mate would follow on behind with a hand driver and give them a quarter turn to give the screw heads the correct recess, an old way I know but a proffesional job, as a carpenter we always tried to think of the next follow on trade coming on the job ie plasterers, sparkies, plumbers etc, we were never out of work and always earned top money for those days.

Lozzer.
 
I think it goes on the size of the ceiling aswell i know it does with an MF ceilings, off the top of my head if its over 50m it has to be 400 centres but they also have a support channels, it might of changed ive not done any MF thats had a spec with it for a while.
 
lozzer345 said:
In the days before collated screw guns became widespread I would screw the scews up flush with the board with a cordless driver and bit and my mate would follow on behind with a hand driver and give them a quarter turn to give the screw heads the correct recess, an old way I know but a proffesional job, as a carpenter we always tried to think of the next follow on trade coming on the job ie plasterers, sparkies, plumbers etc, we were never out of work and always earned top money for those days.

Lozzer.
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Why not just use the clutch on the cordless?
 
lozzer345 said:
Have put up acres of 12.5 mm ceiling on 600 centers all round with noggins at 600 and perimiter noggins, never had any problems or moans, the key is to get the screws just slightly recessed but not to much and at 90 degrees to the face of the board and making sure that the face of the noggins are dead flush with the joists, and don't use damp plasterboard, it's crap and it does yer muscles in on ceilings.
In the days before collated screw guns became widespread I would screw the scews up flush with the board with a cordless driver and bit and my mate would follow on behind with a hand driver and give them a quarter turn to give the screw heads the correct recess, an old way I know but a proffesional job, as a carpenter we always tried to think of the next follow on trade coming on the job ie plasterers, sparkies, plumbers etc, we were never out of work and always earned top money for those days.

Lozzer.
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if you look on the board manufacturers specafiction however you will see that your Method Is not approved so also not guaranteed should anything go wrong.
 
barryed said:
if you look on the board manufacturers specafiction however you will see that your Method Is not approved so also not guaranteed should anything go wrong.
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The British Gypsum website shows 600 all round for 12.5 mm board (I think)
All the roof trusses and hence top floor ceilings I have done and seen done used to be on 600 centers as far as I remember.
Floor joists I have done have always been on 400 centers.

Lozzer.
 
lozzer345 said:
Yes that's fine if the timber is constant hardness but it rarely is,
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So to counter the differential in wood hardness you employ another man to turn the extra quarter turn, primarily because you have no control over the cordless. Really??

I'm gonna stop reading these fu.cking threads!
 
DannyMac said:
So to counter the differential in wood hardness you employ another man to turn the extra quarter turn, primarily because you have no control over the cordless. Really??

I'm gonna stop reading these fu.cking threads!
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Hey, slow down dude, I never said I employed another man, I've never employed anyone, however some labourers can use a screw driver, I had a labourer assigned with me, it speeds up ceiling work, asking a labourer to measure and cut a sheet while your fixing one is usually a negative exercise so I put him on the screw driver...simples. As for controlling the cordless who can say they have never ever pulled a screw through the boardwith them, he who has done no wrong has done fu*ck all in my reckoning, paddle yer own canoe and stuff the tax man.

Lozzer.
 
jamesthefirst said:
I thought they might want to use 9.5mm but I think price plastering has given a better answer than me.
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Does anybody really use 9.5 anymore?


Also, as this is the DIY section, I doubt the OP even knew you could get 15mm boards.

....and I was going to say exactly the same as Pricey
 
We use 9.5 over ply when surveyors specify it for lateral movement in a spine wall for example. 9.5 is basically not much more than heavy duty paper other than that.
 
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