suspended timber ceiling

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plasterjfe

plasterjfe

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looking at a job to install a lowered ceiling from timber rather than MF. never done this before should it work out cheaper than MF any ideas its only 20 M2 but not square its in a sort of T shape?
 
Same sort of principal mate. build wood frame and support on existing ceiloing joists if necessary. i would imagine it would cost a little less as there is just the one timber to buy and some screws or nails. The wood is pretty cheap if you buy it in the bundles in b and q
 
richardbrown said:
the joy of metal is it's straight ... most timber these days is as p.issed as a dogs hind leg.
Click to expand...

A lot easier to store and not much difference in price and 4 times as quick to install.
 
priced the timber at 2.50/length for nice ish 3x2. there aint no existing joists its in situ concrete. they want 150mm suspension for wiring etc and there are stairs so one side will have to return like a soffit to terminate next to the stairs
 
I would use 4x2 rather than 3x2.
Screw 4x2 around the perimiter then fix joist hangers opposite ends set at say 400/450mm
then slot 4x2 joists into hangers & fix with screws.
Put a few noggins in as braces if need be.
 
Nisus said:
I would use 4x2 rather than 3x2.
Screw 4x2 around the perimiter then fix joist hangers opposite ends set at say 400/450mm
then slot 4x2 joists into hangers & fix with screws.
Put a few noggins in as braces if need be.
Click to expand...
Its only a lowered ceiling! You dont need Hangers mate. Its an extra expense you dont need and abit over kill. Hangers are only really for ALOT of weight ie floors.
 
I know mate.
But if its only a suspended ceiling and as long as its not to big,you can use those speedy joist hangers that cost less than a quid each run 3x2 across and board and skim.
I know wood can twist etc but if cheaper than using m/f systems.On the domestic side people want whats cheapest always.
 
To be honest I prefer wood just nicer to work with. The hangers aren't quicker coz in the time it took and extra screws/ nails to fix them and bend the tops over I would have cut the timber and fitted alot of lengths.
Just my opinion coz Ive fitted alot of hangers for use for floors. Plus youve got to make sure the hangers are square or the timber will twist. IMO just fit the lengths crub up takin care for twists and rectify in one go.
Also less than a pound each multiplied by the number of lengths (times two for each piece) adds up as well as say 6 screws /nails in each adds up.
 
No need to bend them over , true, Id just do it so I could get an extra fixing in the top preventing the hanger slipping. If you had room though which you probably wouldnt if the original ceiling was still up.
Usin hangers though might be an easier way if yer on yer own though.
 
I work alone mate.
These speedy hangers what i do is put a fixing through the back of one of the hangers into the precut (to size) wood to hold it there on either side i lift one side up put in 1 screw walk acroos plank hold it up to other side and putin 1 screw i can then adjust as needed b4 putting in more screws.

You cant use this method if the ceiling aint suspended cus it wont take the weight like traditional hangers.
 
You know what mate Im thinkin about traditional hangers. Never heard of speed fit hangers thats why it didnt register but I think I know what you mean now. Do they fit straight into the wall then with no need to fit a wall plate?
 
Looks just like a normal hanger to me but cheaper.
I can see were your comin from though mate. Anything to make a job abit easier when your on yer own.
 
It is same as normal hanger,but has no fixing from above and a little flimsier.
There fine for small suspended ceilings and t w a ts that dont want to pay.
If is was my house id m/f it.
 
Right.
If the cost was the same and the timber was perfectly straight etc. Which would you use then and why?
Just curious coz I prefer to work with wood but agree mf is quicker. However sometimes its a t**t gettin the screw to drive home with mf. Heard alot of guys on here prefer mf over wood but thought it was a speed isue on site etc.
In your own home though its a different ball game. So which and why mate?
 
I prefer to work with wood if im honest,i use old school ways.I still use a water level not laser for example.
But steel doesnt bend or twist so in my own house id would have to be steel frame system cus cost time wouldnt be an issue there.
 
Yeh that's the ones I'm on about skimmin, the flat ones.
piece of piss when on your own.
Plus there priced into job anyway so no probs there Bruce. ;)
 
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