thermal board

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wil

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i've got a job coming up which requires thermal board and to be honest i've only used it once or twice before, now the problem i had with it last time was that the board kept popping off the wall in places so to get around this i knocked some large nails into the board to hold it in places. does anyone have any better ideas with using this board,last time i used the the foam board and there is ploystyrene and also kingspam, are all these types of thermal boards good for dot and dab or maybe battern out would be a better option ??? :-\ :-\ any advice pls lads
 
give the back of the board a really tight coat of bonding compound then dab also there are fixings aswell.
 
as soon as its delivered turn it over and lay it board side down, this should help straighten them a bit and make sure you use multi purpose dabbing adhesive
 
Never had a problem dabbing these boards before. I did once read some where something about
fire regs and a screw fixing in every board. Can anyone second or expand on this?
 
carlos said:
Never had a problem dabbing these boards before. I did once read some where something about
fire regs and a screw fixing in every board. Can anyone second or expand on this?
Click to expand...
Yes thermal boards should also be fixed with nailable plugs aswell as adhesive, if I remember correctly BG say 4 fixing per board and Lafarge say 2 fixings per board.
 
I'm sure i read something about if theres a fire the insulation can melt and the boads can just drop of the wall,
onto the firemen or anyone trying to escape. I think I read that only 1 fixing per board was required to clear
building regs.
 
You used to be able to dot and dab it as long as it wasnt foil back also have used special nylon hammer in nails with massive heads on them, the job ime on at the moment we are cutting strips of plasterboard and gluing them at centres with Gyprock adhesive for the air gap then gluing the thermal board to that and fixing with hammer ins dont particularly like it but thats what they want personaly i would Gypline it.
Lucius.
 
i got a letter from my supplier a few months ago they had this new foam adhisive which comes in a can which was for these boards i havent had a chance th use it yet but looked like good stuff give direct building products a ring ,if you use it let us no
 
i'd like to see a coshh sheet for this and compare it to the bog standard polyuerethane foam you can buy from any diy shop...
 
anything has to be better that dot dabing these f***kers on the wall ,we went in to an extension in brum where they where just falling off the wall i would always strap and screw them on
 
problem with any expanding foam (and there's load of different stuff for different jobs, just speak to anyone in the chemical industry, they develop this stuff all the time, usually in a liquid form) is it expands...
we used to stick window boards on with it.. works real well - brick/block whatever to upvc... problem is if you squirt too much foam in, slap a window board on and walk away youll come back to find the window board 10mm above where you left it, p'ssed as anything... we used to sit packs on the substrate, foam it, drop the board on then sit a transformer on it for 10 minutes...
only way round dabbing walls with this stuff that i can see is use 3 lengths of 3x2 top middle and bottom and fix em through till it sets..
 
Hi Chris i forgot about this foam, never used it on board but you can, we use it in Spain for fixing lightweight roof tiles onto a metal roof system works well and dosent expand and cause probs but quite expensive.
Lucius.
 
thats why i'd like to see a cossh sheet of the stuff theyre selling as 'board adhesive'...
polyurethane foams come in all sorts of mixes and delivery systems...
i was staying at a pub for a few month contract a while ago and there was this chemist staying there who was telling us how they develop different formulae for different applications but theres was usually poured out of a tin down holes or pumped down lines etc...
it reacts with water vapour (or thats how i understand it anyway) and is affected by humidity... thats why wetting a substrate up helps with 'cell structure'...
the diy stuff with the little plastic tube attached is usually pretty high expansion wheras the gun grade stuff tends to be a bit less...
ill bet in the right situation its handy stuff if used correctly, but i'll also bet its not cheap in comparison to traditional dabbing methods..
 
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