Timber Framed House - Dry Lining - Advice?

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Sigmaf

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Hi chaps,

We're almost at the point of going ahead with our self-build plastering works;

The plan was to plaster, but the Scottish timber framers who built our house have suggested that most folk up in Scotland/timber framed always dry line, due to the residual frame movement and settlement - throughout the frames life.

This does make sense to me - but, I don't really understand the pro's/cons?

The local plasterers to here (Chester) - seem a little anti dry-lining.....experience, time it takes, habit etc.

But, I'd rather the job be right and done by somebody experienced/does mind doing the dry-lining work - if I can find somebody!!

Anything else that I should be aware of?

Thanks,

Scott
 
Taping and jointing is a crap finish compared to skimming. The only good thing about it is that it doesn't crack as much as skim.
 
would have thought there'd be fewer cracks in a timber frame because of all the dry works. though there will be shrinkage and settlement in both. if the frame is boarded then skimmed what difference will that make to taping and jointing? incidentally, what timber frame method have you used and what were the comparable costs to traditional build. doing my extension in SIPS. mentioned it to building control the other day and he didnt know wtf i was talking about :rolleyes) actually said "you want to do it in six panels :RpS_confused:" then he phoned me back afterward after probably googling it and has now taken a real interest in it ffs :RpS_angry:
 
By sounds of it your asking if you should dryline?as in board the house?

We have done plenty of timber frames and have used 12.5mm plasterboard with multifinish skim all over. No problems so far
 
Eurgh taping dont do that it should be banned. Crap finish nsteals work from the handworking skilled spreads like myself. Thank you good night much love.
 
No, you end up with quite a lot of settlement because of the construction process, most framers only nail...so, the panels are never really knitted together enough to stop settlement.

Best bet is to screw all of the panels together (simpson strong ties) - minimises movement.

We went for insulated panels - Structural OSB where necessary....a kind of SIPS hybrid really. Comparable costs I'm not sure - probably a little more expensive. But, cleaner, more flexibility, way better for air tightness etc.

Same here btw - our local BC hasn't got any timber frame experience either!!
 
@Sigmaf as has already been said have it skimmed for a superior finish to tape and jointing (assuming you use decent spreads) but have them use paper tape instead of fibretape. To comply with B.S. Standards paper tape should be used on the ceilings anyway.
We're working on a timber framed house out in Oxfordshire at present, it has curved ceilings on OSB, some of them have been plastered for over three weeks now without a single crack coming through the tapes despite the temperature yo-yoing with the heating going on and off.
 
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Jurek said:
would have thought there'd be fewer cracks in a timber frame because of all the dry works. though there will be shrinkage and settlement in both. if the frame is boarded then skimmed what difference will that make to taping and jointing? incidentally, what timber frame method have you used and what were the comparable costs to traditional build. doing my extension in SIPS. mentioned it to building control the other day and he didnt know wtf i was talking about :rolleyes) actually said "you want to do it in six panels :RpS_confused:" then he phoned me back afterward after probably googling it and has now taken a real interest in it ffs :RpS_angry:
Click to expand...

Maybe you can teach him something
 
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