trowels

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christ

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ive been using a 13'' marshalltown permashaped trowel and its curves at both ends, surely you cant get a perfectly flat wall with a trowel shaped like a bannana.

should i be using a trowel which has a straight edge, thinking about getting a tysak trowel.
 
they straighten out when you put pressure on the wall ;) i know what you mean though mate i dont like laying on with them i use a carbon m/town 14 x 3/4 for that it's got a very slight curve nothing like the permashape ....... i still use a permashape to trowel up with though
 
if its board i do slight arches if im skimming hardwall i start in the bottom right corner and do circles
 
if its board i do slight arches if im skimming hardwall i start in the bottom right corner and do circles  
Click to expand...
what do you do with bonding and render nicksey? star shapes? ;D
 
;D .............if it's render i just chuck it on the floor :D
 
the reason i ask about archs is because, the guy from goldtrowel dvd, stands with his back to the wall and applys it in arched movment and thats how i do it, but if u think about it, its not gona be applied evenly, also if u use a bannana trowel (thats what i call the mt permashaped) its gona be no were near flat. so im gona do it staight up and down with a straight trowel. what do u think?

had to get that of my chest. ;D
 
i think if you try and plaster a wall with a concrete trowel (the flat ones that dont dish) then youll never get the lines out?
the reason a trowel is dished (broken in) is so it doesnt leave lines in the wall?? if the trowel was actually finishing a stroke concave then your wall would be full of flutes..
if you wanna get a wall really flat... get it flat before you skim it... thats the idea of backing plaster/render straight edge and float...
if you then wanna run a feather edge over your skim to flatten it do so...
then when you get on the trowel flatten it verically then next trowel move horizontally, next vertically, and so on...
to be honest i think you think too much mate... but then, so do i ::)
if its ripples your worried about, 1) dont lay your skim on too thick and 2) dont flatten it off too early...
:-X
 
go on my man ...hes got an answer for everyfing


q. how do you skim a room with 1 old bag off skim,
 
dunno mate? how do you make 1 old bag of skim last a whole room? :-?
 
go on my man ...hes got an answer for everyfing


q. how do you skim a room with 1 old bag off skim


a. you don't
 
yeah segs what ur sayin in right. also if ur doing a bigger area do u have the mix a bit slopper or do have it as normal
 
if i got a massive set i do tend to stay on the wet side with the mix, but nothing too major or it just ends up on the floor :P
but to be honest, its more psycological than anything else cos if its thin in the mix it tends to go on the wall thin so it dries quick anyway... i find the real art is to get it on the wall as fast as humanly possible, sacrificing even laying on for speed of application, then let the flattening off level the wall out...
what i do on a wobbly wall / smallish set is mix it up real thick, that way you get a bit more chance filling the hollows out and its more of a artform levelling a wall using nothing but a trowel, the end result is always 10 times better than the origional but if theres any mention of 'i want it flat!' from the customer e.g. maybe they wanna tile half the wall or something it'll get bonded level or maybe a straight edge run over the skim to flatten it... price goes up though...
 
i plastered a wall to day and for the 1st and 2nd coat i used a m/t worn in trowel which isnt shaped, applied it in a straight up and down movement, then used a permashaped to trowel it up. there were a lot more lines, just had to spend a little more time troweling up. i put a stright edge on it and it was mint.

before i was using a permashape to apply it, and it was a really uneven finsh
 
That guy in the DVD is well and truley a hardened plasterer as for arc-ing it is his laying on line. As for shapes and sizes if your method of madness works for you so be it, but the essence of laying on correctly is about setting times and the easier point of approach to works. If you have discrepancies when laying on then the float work is pants, however, ever thought of ruling off your first coat with feather edge. It does work, especially over old walls.
 
new trowels and new floats. try rounding the corners off so there not so square. soft red. or sand paper. find the wear in much quicker....
 
griff have you ever tried doing circles when skimming hardwall ? :)
 
No. What's its purpose. I just get it on rule off devil float when ready cut back and skim 2 coats. Circles no reason whatsoever. Like to see it done, cheers
 
use your trowel like a float and do counter clockwise circles, start in the bottom right hand corner and work out mate ..........do you do much hardwall???
 
done loads, not over here though just loads of render and rockcoat
 
the same should apply to any backing coat really always bottom right hand corner and do circles working back on yourself ;)
 
wot the fuc\k are you on about nicksey? i always lay on the same way no matter what the background??? BUT im on domestic, have you sussed out something i havent whats goin on with that then?? whats the point etc.. explain please... >:(
god i hate it when i find ive been doin something wrong for fu'ckin years...
 
btw its cider tonight.. too tired for the quantum physics shite.. no disrespect nicksey.. :)
 
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