Usg aquaboard

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pftmonojetman

pftmonojetman

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Ive got a job to do on Manchester University, outside columns on aquaboard, with a thin coat finish not used this system before, synthetic resin plaster has any one used it, is it like STO.
 
yes they're all pretty much the same in that you use 6mm stops and wing mesh for your angles. put on a tight coat of adhesive then run a notched trowel through it like tilers do, and embed your mesh. they will need another coat when dry to perfect them and flatten more. after this is dry it's a coat of masonry sealer and then the finish coat.
 
do a search on youtube for dryvit outsulation and you'll find about 10 numbered vids for their external wall system. Substitute your aquaboards for the polystyrene ones in the vids and the rest applies to your system.
 
depends on specified system do you know what it is? it will be as goody says more or less but there is one or two systems that have liquid base coats rather than bagged powder (like the dryvit mentioned above) and you wouldnt notch trowel them on just fully spread. have you gotta tape the joints first with a small mesh? I am doin one at the mo like this. to be honest the products with the base coats as goody describes is better for directly applying onto boards - imo beause like on the vid goody mentions polystyrene is a nicer surface to receive the dryvit base but its a littlt too thin for direct application onto boards imo thats why we are taping the joints and fully coating up the beads before we turn back with our mesh/basecoat layer afterwards. systems like marmorit sor weatherbys base coats would fly over boards no probs cos its a bit more like a mortar than a resin.
 
didn't mean use of the dryvit itself....just a good few vids to get the hang of what's involved in a thin-coat system
 
Yeah i know good point I just wanted to make him aware some base coats got more body then the dryvit so he can be carefull to get decent coverage as to avoid any nasties showing through the finish. the vids are good for a general idea tho. What systems have you installed over boards goody
 
i've used rockwool's rockshield ewi system which are sto rebadged, powerwall, parex maite at the moment and also primo from l&d. All good stuff although i'd say parex and sto are light in colour and have more body(sand) than the other grey slumpy tile adhesive types
 
plasterjfe said:
depends on specified system do you know what it is? it will be as goody says more or less but there is one or two systems that have liquid base coats rather than bagged powder (like the dryvit mentioned above) and you wouldnt notch trowel them on just fully spread. have you gotta tape the joints first with a small mesh? I am doin one at the mo like this. to be honest the products with the base coats as goody describes is better for directly applying onto boards - imo beause like on the vid goody mentions polystyrene is a nicer surface to receive the dryvit base but its a littlt too thin for direct application onto boards imo thats why we are taping the joints and fully coating up the beads before we turn back with our mesh/basecoat layer afterwards. systems like marmorit sor weatherbys base coats would fly over boards no probs cos its a bit more like a mortar than a resin.
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Its this stuff http://www.aquapanel.com/pdf/en/AQUAPANEL_Exterior_Silicone_Resin_Plaster_en.pdf
 
never used it jetman is it one product only then? no base coat first then top coat later?
Who is the job for
 
the system i gotta do is aquaboard, basecoat, mesh, bascoat, float up. then paint. no extra colour coat or anything. the builders a bit of a stingey c**t, but apparently u can float the basecoat............
 
yeah some of the basecoats benefit from a float sponge or poly but normally if it aint finishing to a decent standard of the trowel you can turn back and trowel it in or spat it, thats what we normally do to get it good enough for finish coat.
As I aint used this paticular product I cant say what is the best method, just have to see when you get the stuff on. let us know how it goes and what the gear is like on both your jobs. Maybe get a pic on ere
 
s**t. the gear is quite nice, but it pissed down bout 4 and the walls are saoked and it was starting to run. so i thought f**k this and went home. it was only the joint filler tho so hopefully not too bad.

did a test patch on a board offcut for the usg basecoat and was still wet at bout 5oclock. put it on bout 8.30. so i think needs leaving over night. thats all i gotta do, tape and joint filler, basecoat with mesh in it floated up.
 
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