Vaulted ceiling, loft conversion

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FreeD

FreeD

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Whats the best way to skim a vaulted ceiling and how do you get a clean straight line between wall ceiling?
 
Firstly, make sure there are no hollow points in the ashlar wall by offering a straight edge to it, surveying and dubbing out as required( if needed).Then draw a level line on the ashlar wall below the skeeling( say 10mm or so). Bond or dub out any hollow points on the skeeling to creat a line that is parallel with your guide line rulling through as needed. Once this is hard,skim as usual keeping the skim close to parallel as possible with your guide line.

Before skimming the ashlar wall, ping a chalk line guide on the newly set skeeling( say 6mm up end to end) and use this as a guide to skim up to keeping the skim parallel with the guide line.

Works for me, others may have a different approach.If money no object , then trowel , float, trowel 3 coat skimming, using the float coat to run in a nice straight line.
 
Think I mean a raked ceiling in loft conversion, flat at the top then sloped on either side...want to know how I finish at the top..if I curve it then I want have a break on the whole ceiling...also where slope meets wall at bottom trying to get straight line
 
Thanks Mark thats great guide can I do the same for the ceiling line or do I have to put a curve on it?
 
mark ross said:
Firstly, make sure there are no hollow points in the ashlar wall by offering a straight edge to it, surveying and dubbing out as required( if needed).Then draw a level line on the ashlar wall below the skeeling( say 10mm or so). Bond or dub out any hollow points on the skeeling to creat a line that is parallel with your guide line rulling through as needed. Once this is hard,skim as usual keeping the skim close to parallel as possible with your guide line.

Before skimming the ashlar wall, ping a chalk line guide on the newly set skeeling( say 6mm up end to end) and use this as a guide to skim up to keeping the skim parallel with the guide line.

Works for me, others may have a different approach.If money no object , then trowel , float, trowel 3 coat skimming, using the float coat to run in a nice straight line.
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F ucking hell i just use a stop bead.
 
Just check the ceiling line for straightness, dub out any hollow points. Then instead of a level line, ping a chalk line on the skeeling say 6 to 7mm down the skeeling as a parallel guide to work to. Repeat skeeling to ceiling line with a chalk line pinged on the newly set ceiling. In some extreme cases where the rafters/ceiling joists are way out, a curve across the 2 will be a better way of hiding this and will probably look more aesthetically pleasing to the eye.Thiswill increase the size of your set, and a 2nd spread may be required.
 
if the ceilings is too big for you to do in a oner with the curves in just curve it down the wall a bit then patch the wall to the curve
 
Aaron you won't get them perfect it's impossible there are ways but would cost a lot of money you could check the ceiling line and bond it out if it's bad and charge a bit more but it still won't be spot on I'd curve it
 
Right thanks all for help i've got some pics now of what i've done so far...I want to do this properly and would appreciate some guidance on a few things. Firstly once I boarded it and put the straight edge on it the sloped ceilings were all over the place...the walls not so bad apart from in one corner, think this is where the steels joined.

The flat ceiling/sloped ceiling line is fairly straight to the eye now but curves back into the sloped ceiling at the highest point.

The sloped ceiling/wall line is still wavy..I tried to sort it by dubbing out the lowest points...but to truly sort it i'd have to dub out most of the wall which the architect doesn't want.
 
Nightmare m8 so used to get everything bang on but with this one its like I'd have to bond the whole thing out to get it bang on

I didn't take the boards down to the floor by the way.
 
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What about this where the small and larger strip of plasterboard run down from the ceiling to the wall I was thinking of stop beading on either side of them?
 
Can't do any more mate just skim the mother if you want to be fussy hold something very flat against the angles and easy fill them but then youd still be fighting any uneveness and you get a bit of overrflow against what you hold up and have to do the other side and then you think you shouldnt be so fussy and just curved the f**k*r lol you can still make them wavy if you skim them it's easier when the angles a bit 45 degreeish those angles are the hardest
 
Nightmare m8 you should see the angles in the dark side, was a nightmare to board on my todd, cutting 8x4s downstairs and bringing em up
 
I've been on and off this job for a while now pulled onto others by the builders, the prep is getting a bit soul destroying, just wish I could find some1 who works to my standards to help me out.
 
If the architect doesn't want you to dub it out, it can only be because he knows you'd be putting too much on the boards, so just curve it where you can, make it easy for yourself where ya can. If the joiner can't be ^rsed to put a string line across then why should you? If you're on daywork take it down and pad the timbers out first :RpS_thumbup:
 
Looks like a tricky loft conversion mate he's priced the job himself so he's on his own daywork doubt the joiner exists doing work on the existing roof which normally pushes the angle out and you'd be lucky if an architect was involved
 
Yea it pisses me off m8..the chippie has made hard work for me, he used a nail gun as well, if you hit some of the timbers they go in further. Don't understand why he didn't get them straight, if it were me i'd get the chippie to do the boarding as well.

I am on daywork but its been dragging on...I did suggest packing out...but for financial reasons they want to push on
 
Gibbo said:
whats a skeeling and an ashlar wall when its at home
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Hi, in responce to your questions.

An ashlar wall is normally a timber wall built directly below a roof purlin. ( you may know it as a dwarf wall) Ask a chippie.

A skeilling is a slopping ceiling ( normally underside of rafters) or soffit. may also be known as a rake or sloped ceiling.
 
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why didnt you just get the joiner to do his bit right? and if they are wanting you to push on then just push on and fooook them. id have stuck some of the beads one when doing that
 
mark ross said:
Hi, in responce to your questions.

An ashlar wall is normally a timber wall built directly below a roof purlin. ( you may know it as a dwarf wall) Ask a chippie.
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Well thats the first time ive heard it called that and before i call you a bullshitter i like to find out for myself so give this man a cigar he is spot on.

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