Vaulted ceilings

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plasterworks

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The tin hat is on and I'm ready for the piss take but am in need of some advice with vaulted ceilings

usually with vaulted ceilings I bond out the joins between the sides and top then roll them to a curved finish. The last job I done the customer wanted it done without the roll and just straight lines. I pinged a chalk line across and fixed stop beads then skimmed it up as usual. Got a call off the customer today and although he was pleased with the rest of the extension , he was unhappy that now it's painted the lines are slightly wonky in places

so, what I ask is.. What can I do in future to ensure the lines are crisp and clean?

The beads were fixed to a continuos length of Baton with clout nails so there was no sagging. All I can think of is I should of maybe done the top piece first then tied the sides into it rather than the other way around?

any advice and piss take greatly appreciated
 
been discussed afor marra but why stop beads ? your lines will only be as straight as the stud work behind them or how good your dabbing is.

I would ping chalk lines and then use bonding and feather edge to straighten, when bonding has set skim up to angles but work opposites if you want really sharp internals on this type of angle (well i would greater spreads may not)
 
raggles said:
been discussed afor marra but why stop beads ? your lines will only be as straight as the stud work behind them or how good your dabbing is.

I would ping chalk lines and then use bonding and feather edge to straighten, when bonding has set skim up to angles but work opposites if you want really sharp internals on this type of angle (well i would greater spreads may not)
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Thanks for your reply. Just to clarify it's an up an over ceiling so no dab work. I was tying the two sides of the ceiling into the top centre section. I never done the tacking so unsure as to what was going on underneath although they did use tapered edge Boards
 
could try banging a couple of nails either end then put a string line up and use that as a guide to set your stop bead.
 
Forget stop beads your asking for a crack ( not of the owner) you need to look down it once your skimming the face then hope the painter does you a favour :)
 
Never used a stop bead doing this. It'll usually crack.
As has been said before, bonding and a featheredge and lots of eyeing it up.
Easiest to work into hard lines so do either wall or ceiling, not both.
 
Buy a versa adjustable angle tool from Belmores.
Bang it on in one, then use a feather edge to gently cut a straight line for a guide, finish with the angle tool as per normal.
You shouldn't need to bead an internal angle to get a straight crease.
 
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