Wood

Members online

Total: 262 (members: 11, guests: 251)

Share this page

S

Shabba_don

Member
I have got a job to do next week which once they stripped the wall paper off uncovered a old serving hatch thats got a sheet of ply filling it in. I have got to skim the whole wall which is 25sq so the customer doesn't want to go down the board root. I did try and remove it but who ever done the kitchen years ago screwed there board to the other side and it put some hairline cracks in the plaster that side. Ideally I would normally remove it completely patch the kitchen up and board the living room wall but they have just had a brand new kitchen fitted and they have told me its a no go. Any ideas on how to skim over it? I did think scrim joints scatch for a key and a tight coat of either bonding or drywall. as its already flush with the existing wall if I mesh it its will bulge out. Any advice welcome. Cheers.
 
Shabba_don said:
I have got a job to do next week which once they stripped the wall paper off uncovered a old serving hatch thats got a sheet of ply filling it in. I have got to skim the whole wall which is 25sq so the customer doesn't want to go down the board root. I did try and remove it but who ever done the kitchen years ago screwed there board to the other side and it put some hairline cracks in the plaster that side. Ideally I would normally remove it completely patch the kitchen up and board the living room wall but they have just had a brand new kitchen fitted and they have told me its a no go. Any ideas on how to skim over it? I did think scrim joints scatch for a key and a tight coat of either bonding or drywall. as its already flush with the existing wall if I mesh it its will bulge out. Any advice welcome. Cheers.
Click to expand...

Your the plasterer you tell them how the job has to be done not the other way around!

If there not prepared to listen then they will have to repaper!
 
zombie said:
Your the plasterer you tell them how the job has to be done not the other way around!

If there not prepared to listen then they will have to repaper!
Click to expand...
Wall paper route has been said, can understand the kitchen side though as would affect the worktop and splash back.
 
Mickymoo83 said:
I luv quoting jobs where customers knows best..it adds a £0 to my quote
Click to expand...

I just dont do them anymore!

I get great satisfaction from telling them its either my way or get someone else to fo it there way.

Couldnt give a flying f**k about there opinions ive forgot more than they will ever know about plastering.
 
They get me to much work to refuse and moneys decent. Could skimming upto it and feathering in where it meets and letting the dec fill it?
 
Shabba_don said:
I have got a job to do next week which once they stripped the wall paper off uncovered a old serving hatch thats got a sheet of ply filling it in. I have got to skim the whole wall which is 25sq so the customer doesn't want to go down the board root. I did try and remove it but who ever done the kitchen years ago screwed there board to the other side and it put some hairline cracks in the plaster that side. Ideally I would normally remove it completely patch the kitchen up and board the living room wall but they have just had a brand new kitchen fitted and they have told me its a no go. Any ideas on how to skim over it? I did think scrim joints scatch for a key and a tight coat of either bonding or drywall. as its already flush with the existing wall if I mesh it its will bulge out. Any advice welcome. Cheers.
Click to expand...

give the ply a decent coat of pva, then mesh over the area and reskim. a bit of piss to a plasterer.
 
Did think the mesh option and feather it out past it so cant see a bulge in the wall. I have got leeway with them and have said Its on there head if I do skim. Just asking for different ways to do it right if possible
 
Shabba_don said:
Did think the mesh option and feather it out past it so cant see a bulge in the wall. I have got leeway with them and have said Its on there head if I do skim. Just asking for different ways to do it right if possible
Click to expand...
Maybe a waterproof sealer to stop moisture getting in to the wood. I've meshed over wood before and still got hairline cracks. That could be just me though. If you do mesh give the whole wall a coat of bonding to bring it out to the same level.
 
How thick is this wall cos they must of used some length screws if ply on one side will not come off due to fixings for units in the other side !
 
Fill around it with that one strike filler gloss it all then grit and skim it. Any moisture gets into that timber it’s going to expand and shrink.
 
Shabba_don said:
I have got a job to do next week which once they stripped the wall paper off uncovered a old serving hatch thats got a sheet of ply filling it in. I have got to skim the whole wall which is 25sq so the customer doesn't want to go down the board root. I did try and remove it but who ever done the kitchen years ago screwed there board to the other side and it put some hairline cracks in the plaster that side. Ideally I would normally remove it completely patch the kitchen up and board the living room wall but they have just had a brand new kitchen fitted and they have told me its a no go. Any ideas on how to skim over it? I did think scrim joints scatch for a key and a tight coat of either bonding or drywall. as its already flush with the existing wall if I mesh it its will bulge out. Any advice welcome. Cheers.
Click to expand...
It can be done. B&q quick dry filler 20 min set is speced for wood as well,
Coat it and paper tape it, let it dry then grit it. Skim.
Done 1 same scenario, customer did not want frame removed because it was tiled over kitchen side or disturbed, I said if it splits not my problem.
Back in property a month ago for another room, I checked it out, not a hairline crack in it. Might be luck.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top