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mcishere

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I have a job to do. The walls are extremely wonky its just a re-skim over old skim job. i am newly qualified and have no experience in renovating. The things they dont teach you at college.
There are cracks everywhere around 1/2 mm and the corners of room are wonky with cracks.
was wondering shall i just PVA and make good or shall i use bonding to fill the cracks or what else should i use. customers doesnt want dub coat he wants a cheap job.
 
'cheap job' depends on how much your gonna charge him...
you could scrape out and scrim the cracks, pva it and throw some finish on and trowel it up..
youll struggle to get it flat if its miles out with a bit of skim, but youll get a finish on...
or you could knock up some bonding and just fill out the hollows something like, use a straight edge, let it firm up, then skim it
good excuse to ask him how much he's lookin at payin before you quote him...then u can decide what your prepared to do for the money he's prepared to pay...
 
I'm with Bigsegs on this one - getting it smooth is one thing , getting it flat is entirely different - How big a job is it ? Suggest to the customer that you could board the room out and then skim - Much better finish for him and an easier job for you if you are gaining experience - Guess the skirtings and architrave might be a problem though if they are still in place ?
 
I think dot and dab re-board would be the best thing i will suggest it to him. I was think of using bond to flatten the walls so prob do that if the guy doesnt wish to board out the room. end of the day if the guy wants a cheap job he gets on as long as i warn him that cutting cost cuts a decent job i wont be held responsible. I'm happy boarding skimming rendering etc but making good of pisd up walls looks like too much hassle for someone of my experience. The ceilings been boarded but its a DIY job and it is another hassle. 10mm gaps between boards in places and plenty of off cuts with same gap between ceiling edge to wall on one side. I will just pack it with scrim if he's not prepared to re-board or suggest coving maybe.
 
dont forget as mentioned by pp above, if u dab it youve got the skirts, architraves and more importantly the door liner to worry about...o and theres the window board overhang too...unless everythings already off and he's prepared to extend the door liner a bit...
ceiling edge, long as your scrim sits on both the wall and the ceiling you should be fine..
 
Be careful with the ceiling aswell - Had my fingers burnt before on a ceiling the customer had put up - Bloody thing came down after a day cos not only was he only using 20mm screws , most of the time he missed the joists so whilst it looked as if plenty of screws were up there , they weren't drilled into anything !

Ask him what length screws he used - I always like 42mm dri wall screws if its straight into joists or 50mm if I'm boarding over artex - Maybe a bit excessive but better safe than sorry

And I doubt he's staggered the joins of the boards so mention the possibility of long cracks if it shrinks for whatever reason - Always cover your arse I find , they can never moan then about shrinkage cracks or anything more sinister then
 
I have a job to do. The walls are extremely wonky its just a re-skim over old skim job. i am newly qualified and have no experience in renovating. The things they dont teach you at college.
There are cracks everywhere around 1/2 mm and the corners of room are wonky with cracks.
was wondering shall i just PVA and make good or shall i use bonding to fill the cracks or what else should i use. customers doesnt want dub coat he wants a cheap job.
Click to expand...
which training route did you go down mate?
 
Quote from mcishere on Yesterday at 6:58pm:
I have a job to do. The walls are extremely wonky its just a re-skim over old skim job. i am newly qualified and have no experience in renovating. The things they dont teach you at college.
There are cracks everywhere around 1/2 mm and the corners of room are wonky with cracks.
was wondering shall i just PVA and make good or shall i use bonding to fill the cracks or what else should i use. customers doesnt want dub coat he wants a cheap job.
which training route did you go down mate?
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I did the intesive course training method mate
 
Be careful with the ceiling aswell - Had my fingers burnt before on a ceiling the customer had put up - Bloody thing came down after a day cos not only was he only using 20mm screws , most of the time he missed the joists so whilst it looked as if plenty of screws were up there , they weren't drilled into anything !

Ask him what length screws he used - I always like 42mm dri wall screws if its straight into joists or 50mm if I'm boarding over artex - Maybe a bit excessive but better safe than sorry

And I doubt he's staggered the joins of the boards so mention the possibility of long cracks if it shrinks for whatever reason - Always cover your arse I find , they can never moan then about shrinkage cracks or anything more sinister then

yeh your right the boards are not very well put up. but i have told the guy everything that could go wrong from his DIY. hes a nice guy i think he's just looking to get it done. used bonding coat to dub out areas which needed attention and customers happy so all in all think my troubles are over. touch wood
 
no worries, long as he's happy, same as all of us...
to quote others mate, click the quote button at the right hand edge of the post you want to quote...
 
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