magic mitre

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gps

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has anyone used the magic mitre it looks really good I may buy one just wondered if anyone has one
 
They are shite, I have one was a real c**t to use only used it once still had fanny gaps. I now use the metal gyproc miter works perfect!!

Danny
 
i found the thing used to set the angle would move slighty.... so you would have to set it again
 
For non 45degree angles just mark your coving edges on the ceiling in a couple of places near the angle. Draw a line between the two. Do the same on the adjoining wall. Make sure the lines cross. Hold up coving with square edge and mark where the lines meet on the top edge of the coving
 
beddy said:
For non 45degree angles just mark your coving edges on the ceiling in a couple of places near the angle. Draw a line between the two. Do the same on the adjoining wall. Make sure the lines cross. Hold up coving with square edge and mark where the lines meet on the top edge of the coving
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does that work if the ceilings are diving up and down too? i hate coving
 
the most important thing about coving, cornice fixing imo. is getting it fitted in the correct position,on ceiling and wall.
we pva the area first to allow you to move the cove into position, also this makes it easy to clean down.
we cut a template about 12inches in length. pushing the template against the length of cove untill the mitre is correct.
for odd angles as beddy describes.
we just use the plastic mitre boxes. and make our own ones for large cornices.
 
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Is there a specific mitre box for coving? My old gaffer had one made. I use the small metal tool that sits on the cove but sometimes you lose the first couple of inches of cove and it can mean putting a small piece in to make up for it
 
beddy said:
Is there a specific mitre box for coving? My old gaffer had one made. I use the small metal tool that sits on the cove but sometimes you lose the first couple of inches of cove and it can mean putting a small piece in to make up for it
Click to expand...

we have two sizes of the plastic cove mitre box made by artex, from B and Q. the small one for 100mm and 112mm cove the larger one for 150mm cornice. i have used the metal one but they get lost very easy.
we do try to order the cove ,so that it is long enough to keep the joints down to the min. if the cove was a couple of inches short i would cut it back a couple of ft. to give me a decent joint. at one time you could get gyproc cove in 5.2m lengths
 
beddy said:
Is there a specific mitre box for coving? My old gaffer had one made. I use the small metal tool that sits on the cove but sometimes you lose the first couple of inches of cove and it can mean putting a small piece in to make up for it
Click to expand...

Is that the wonder mitre? They are shite......well mine is anyway
 
Tried it numerous times and always have to reduce it down on the top or bottom of the cut (cant remember which) cove is in the right position as far as im aware malc. just cant get on with it
 
It works great. Just the design of it means if you want to cut an external as close to the edge as possible you lose about 3". Or id youve got a piece that is just long enough to fit in and needs an external cutting you cant sit it on properly
 
you are not getting the cove in the correct position.
cut your self a template about 12inches to 24 inches long, with an internal angle on both ends. offer your length of cove into position, place the template against one internal angle, mark the wall and ceiling line with a pencil mark, repeat the other internal. you now know that you have got both internals in the correct position so fix that length of cove. work your way around the room using this method,
for externals, i cut both externals and butter and push them togther. you should never have to adjust your mitre.

as i have said in previous post, a weak mix of pva on ceiling and walls so we can move cove into its final position, also it stops the adhesive drying out to quick , and being dead. we would put a nail under,and over cove into the ceiling to prevent slipping.
 
beddy said:
It works great. Just the design of it means if you want to cut an external as close to the edge as possible you lose about 3". Or id youve got a piece that is just long enough to fit in and needs an external cutting you cant sit it on properly
Click to expand...
you would be better off with the plastic box as you can cut with no waste.
when useing the box, i look if i am adding on to the back edge of the cove it is an internal angle, cutting off, the back edge it is an external
 
Just looking online and you can get a gyproc mitre box that fits 100mm and 127mm. How does that work? Surely the angle it sits at would be wrong
 
the box has lines marked on the inside of it, therefore you can get the cove in the correct position for cutting.
 
I used to scribe and use dab now I mitre and use coving addy in a tube from tool station. Find it cleaner and does a nicer job of filling afterwards
 
Seen them adjustable mitre things and wondered about them.. We just use a metal mitre thing. For different angles I mark out on the ceiling where the cove intersects - transfer to the cove and cut freehand. Works for me (getting the angle right is important though).
 
We use the easy cove mitre from b and q, 100mm and 127mm sits into it and it really is the easiest thing you'll ever use. My 6 year old could use it! Can cut the 135mm cornice in it as well.
 
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