Soundproof

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liverpool_plasterer

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Hello fellas hope you are all busy getting the Christmas £ in.
Had a customer coplaining about her nightmare neibours making noise. Anybody suggest a method to sort this out other than strangle their kids?
Timber frame rock wool and sound proof boards? On walls and ceiling? Would this make enough differance to satisfy the cost
Thanks lads
 
Kill the kid mate ,only safe way ,unless you need the job then hope one of the guys will come along soon and help out ,best of luck
 
keithuk said:
Kill the kid mate ,only safe way ,unless you need the job then hope one of the guys will come along soon and help out ,best of luck
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could be wrong here keith, but i dont think its what he had in mind, dont mean to be a nambypamby but could be illegal as well, its this HANDBOARD thing keith youre not thinking straight ,you must start calling it a handboard then karma will return
 
Yea would make a big difference fella, make sure u price up the sound proof boards first tho as they can be expensive and if that dont work then strangle the little....
 
liverpool_plasterer said:
Hello fellas hope you are all busy getting the Christmas £ in.
Had a customer coplaining about her nightmare neibours making noise. Anybody suggest a method to sort this out other than strangle their kids?
Timber frame rock wool and sound proof boards? On walls and ceiling? Would this make enough differance to satisfy the cost
Thanks lads
Click to expand...

Erect a stud wall 50mm off of offending wall ( do not fix to it!) Acoustic rockwool and 19mm sound plank. Acoustic mastic around edges, wall, ceiling and floor.
Fit resilient bar to stud through sound plank and to resi bar fit soundboard. Acoustic mastic as before. Skim or tape and joint.

Best not to have anything on the wall ie sockets, pictures etc as sound will leak and will be useless.
Also you will probably find the sound will travel around the wall.

Hope this helps

 
Fourplastering said:
Erect a stud wall 50mm off of offending wall ( do not fix to it!) Acoustic rockwool and 19mm sound plank. Acoustic mastic around edges, wall, ceiling and floor.
Fit resilient bar to stud through sound plank and to resi bar fit soundboard. Acoustic mastic as before. Skim or tape and joint.

Best not to have anything on the wall ie sockets, pictures etc as sound will leak and will be useless.
Also you will probably find the sound will travel around the wall.

Hope this helps
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Good advice here.

Couple of questions though, would polystyrene boards not block the sound better. Maybe used onto the resiliant bar.

And perhaps kingspan instead of the acoustic rockwool. Or as much rockwool as you can squeeze in, that acoustic roll is only thin isn't it?
 
DannyMac said:
Good advice here.

Couple of questions though, would polystyrene boards not block the sound better. Maybe used onto the resiliant bar.

And perhaps kingspan instead of the acoustic rockwool. Or as much rockwool as you can squeeze in, that acoustic roll is only thin isn't it?
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You can use it but I'm sure if polystyrene was better then they wouldn't make sound block.
You need density and different mass to stop sound hence the void, soundplank, resi bar/void soundblock, skim.

Do not pack the void with acoustic wool you need a gap behind.
 
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Fourplastering said:
Do not pack the void with acoustic wool you need a gap behind.
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Why, I thought when stopping sound you are trying to kill the drum effect.

I know fixing to the wall is wrong but touching it with rockwool wont transfer the noise.

IMO 100mm of rockwool isnt enough, i dont mean to pack it to fu'ck but at least 200mm.

Just been reading up about polystyrene and you're right, it's a poor soundblock.
 
Kingspan is'nt designed to improve accoustic performance of an element, and if you cram the cavity full of a dense product like rockwool you will actually loose performance. In order for insulation to work you require an airspace either side of it. With insulation after you reach a density of 10kg/m3 you get no extra performance (accoustically) for extra weight so glass mineral wool will do as good a job as a dense rock wool product.
Personally I would suggest a 2" x 2" timber frame filled with 50mm accoustic quilt, seal around the frame work with mastic, and as previously mentioned don't put any fixings or fitings into the wall (these would be a path for flanking sound), then fix resilent bars at 600mm centres and board with sound proofing plasterboard either 1 or two layers depending on your budget, making sure you use the correct screw length so you dont secondary fix through the resilent bar and into the timbers, as this would cause a loss of accoustic performance.
Ideally but unrealistically you should do this on the side the noise is coming from but cant see the neighbours being too happy!!
 
Would you board the timber frame, then resi bar and board again Smudge?

What would you fix your resi bar to?
 
Can you use a parge coat over existing then dab soundboards over the top on existing, I've done this on new builds on party walls both are in direct contact with the wall, must be passable does anyone know the values compared to something like smudge and fourplastering suggested
 
i was goin to say ive tried soundcoat then sound check boards over the top before obviously sealed around perimeter or boards before skimming and not had a call back??
 
Soundcoat is good stuff, used it the other day on block and dabbed on top. Not sure how well it would sit on a painted wall. It did seem sticky though and I'd be quite confident that it would stay on some bonding agent.
 
a parge coat is used to nulify the drum effect caused by the cavity created when dabbing a board on doesnt actually improve the sound performance of the wall. The timber frame would be left unboarded, with the resiu bars screw fixed to the timber frame then obviously the board screw fixed to the resibars (using the shortest screw possible i.e 25mm for 12.5mm board) the idea of the 50mm frame is to create an airspace then insulation then acts as a sponge in the airspace and the resibars isolate the board from the timber frame, if you just board the timber frame directly, every screw is a point of contact and a threw point for sound, were as if you fix the baords to a resi bar the only fixing into the timber frame are the ones that hold the resibar on.
 
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