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cut the lines in this morning, took longer than i though tbh but spent some time measureing out lines etc. come up a match with what was there , cherrs for advise guys :) learnt something new! never to old ay!

works for me mate, rule off, let it air, rub up, let it air, sponge once....... leave, sponge again, especially if its wet and the first sponge has left thicker grain swirls. you ll find the second spounge can bring it up more uniform if the first was too wet. thats sometimes needed say when the...

works for me mate, rule off, let it air, rub up, let it air, sponge once....... leave, sponge again, especially if its wet and the first sponge has left thicker grain swirls. you ll find the second spounge can bring it up more uniform if the first was too wet. thats sometimes needed say when the...

why would he not want to go too the floor with the bead?

its coz he has photoed it from high up and not straight on...... tizz all.

get your self one of those dimond floats, refina sell them i think. can rub up the wetest of walls, leave for ages then sponge it up, i find a few sponges brings the grain up finer and finer..... looks proper flat.

iv never seen someone FAFF around with such a small area, get the fker on and ruled off...... job done, pub.

i can see pug holes, just slightly bend the bead up and pinch a nail in it, render it, job done :)

ah reet! i get you now. i did use a dryer mix for the bottoms, not that it helped much mind lol it was soaked tbh. i gotta get these last few render jobs tied up , before it gets even wetter out there

a drier would have been great! i had to sponge it up after an early rub up and run and hope it stays on lol ill be careful for sure! as it will most likely be moist still tomorrow. cherrs gibbo

ok so i rendered the walls today, fking soaking the bottoms! scratched it last friday! but it goes right to the floor so had a nice foot of damp this morning. will attempt these lines tomorrow :)

lol, so its just a handling issue . got ya! thanks guys just for record though, who does it when its still fresh? and whats the method?

cherrs guys, i bought some small saw files today but after seeing the pic im more inclined to use the disc method! why do i need to cut in half though? i would have thought id use the roundness of the full disc!? but yes, pretty much im matching what is in that pic. it sounds much easier...

they look as thin as a trowel line for sure, just worried about it dragging and tearing.... as that tends to happen i find once the render is sponged. any other tips mate? was just thinking about using a fatish nail tbh.

hi guys, been a plasterer for 14 years and can honestlt say iv never had a request for this, untill now. but i dont know how to do it? what sort of tool should i use? and at what time of the rubbing up method should i do it? im firmiliar that once the render is rubbed up and sponged it can...

bend with the knees, about all i can say mate. and if your backs chuffed always make sure you use a skiv to do heavy lifting, or you ll be fked good and proper.

could free hand to match the rest in, sponge will do the job nicely! or as said, stop bead and fill in the back. i use silicon if the gaps too small.

if the bricks and morter joints where shot to bits after hacking the old render off then its because the wall is now weakend , should have messed it up before rendering to aid strength , unless the walls were bloody soaked then that alone wouldnt cause the render to blow, houses have cavitiys to...

iv tryed it without and its not so great rubbing up without a nice shovel full of lime, works for me and had no problems with any of my render work. what you ll find is that all plasterers have their own method and mix, iv worked with tons of spreads and they all do it differant.

deffo prime it, going over other peoples work without knowing the scratch mix will/can cause all sorts, least if you prime it it should aid for an even suction.

just use 1 stop bead, then go up to it both edges. or free hand.

prob to do with the salt, should have treated it first with salt inhibiter stuff, them messed it too then scratched.

yes, but sand and cement isnt lime based if you just chuck a shovel full in to stop furing up and aid with some flexability....

nothing, as iv done it for years lol

not to be mixed with lime based it states, its fine for sand and cement.

i just stick to plastering jobs lol in this weather, funny though how many render jobs come along in these weathers

sweet!!! that could be the way to go then! if i was to do the standard top coat of render like normal, what would be a good mix to use IF i was going to apply this acrylic stuff on-top after?? i use a 5-1 sand cement with 2 small caps of freeflow waterproof stuff and 1 big shovel of lime...

the 0 feed back would warn me away tbh.

are we talking about machining plaster in domestic houses?? must be sites right!

the one that came with my drill lol

spounge is good for quick one coat work, where as said the price is tight or even over board, board is already flat so the more coats you apply the more risk of getting a wavey finish. also used to bring back dead plaster if youv layed on to much, but this should never happen if your a decent...

yes. thats why im only a deomestic plasterer these days, plus its hard to make real money on site these days coz of s**t prices. i dont bother anymore. i earn more in domestic plastering and its come and go as you please, so better for me.

jezz guys, so many spreads but no replys.

bingo!

trowel not worn in enough and playing around with it while its still wet by sounds of it mate. let it go off and dont play with it.

any help here lads? please

long as you water down the pva enough it will only act as a stabilizer on the background, ensuring the first coat to get a good grip on the bricks etc. neat however has the opposite effect, like a skin.

1 thick coat and sponge float lol trowel up and fk off, job jobbed lol

as said, leave the scratch to cure proper, least 2-3 days.... less waterproofer too. SBR the wall first if you like, that scratch coat wont go anywhere then lol your top coat shaould always be weaker than the one below it....so 4-1 scratch.....5-1 top etc i use FREEFLOW by cemento, exelent...

i dont see it as easier , more time comsuming by sounds of it, best to get all the prep and beading done...then scratch the lot...then top out the lot.... or your having to go back and scratch and top out again....

if the wall is ringing wet still, i wouldnt do it till its dried out, as you ll be there all night rubbing it up mate, also depends if youv used any sort of waterproofer in the scratch.

could i even just render the job in sand cement like i normally would then use this thin coat acrylic render iv ben seeing ?? to get the same sort of finish the lady has on her other wall..... like this cream top coat here...last coat at end of the vid!!! External Wall Insulation with a...

this is what i wanted to know really, if these thin coat renders can be applied onto a sand and cement render....for that smoothed tyrolean look finsh. iv watched a few vids on thin coat rendering on youtube and 2 fat bastards seem to handle it fine, so expect ill be alreet too lol would you...

hi guys, great forum you have here. im new so hi first of all :RpS_biggrin: iv been plastering for nearly 14 years now and am very good at traditional s&c exterier rendering, however i have question about k-rendering. never really done much of this over my years and the little i have done...