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Their BBA's say that only cracks over 0.2mm need to be repaired.... I've been down this road, I had a customer insisting that they had a render guaranteed not to crack a few years back and I couldn't find one.

It ain't a pissing competition mate, we use "anti-crack full render specified systems" as well, you ain't covered for cracking. I'm yet to see a mono manufacturer who'll hold their hands up to a crack in a render when the blocks have cracked and the blockwork guys certainly won't. I'd advise...

Might want to read the small print. Anyhoo, your guarantee includes cracking, so does Rendits, is yours "rubbish" too? I'd be interested to read the wording on "fading!"

Awesome, none of them include cracking though. Cracks aren't actually considered a fault with most of those. The BBA or British Standards doesn't even consider them a fault. They aren't really thinking about it, just nice for the punter when you get them sorted. Had Rendit out twice last year...

Rendit will cover it for cracking for 2 years mate as well.

The ewi m2 prices, does that include corners if so how many or is that the prices for a windowless house with only one wall? Always get a tad sceptical when I see suppliers do that.

Temps were well up, and HPX does make the top dry a bit quicker we've found. Awkward time of year with temps all over the place.

Did you ever ask the teacher why your shadow follows you round? Apply that answer to this.

I've heard webers been slowed down with the new stuff, not had chance to use it yet is that true?

I've had paint do that when not mixed properly at the shop, never had it with renders though. Was it factory coloured or tinted at a shop?

Can you brick render mate? Spray base coats? Do you mind working away a bit? Might be something coming up in March, the firm we work for will be looking to set on in a large way they reckon. I was in south wales a couple of weeks ago and County Durham next week.

Yawn. It's not 2005 anymore fella, c'mon catch up!

R10 and K1. Mesh in first pass. Or HPX, mesh and K1.

It is when you see some of the stuff that's getting done with the brick render at the minute.

Barnsley, thats on Wheatley Hall Road. We stopped to laugh at that in the van.

I recognise that where is it?

Best to let it cure out mate 2-3 weeks before you put the sealer on.

8-9 quid a bag + vat ish

We have, loads less mess and it dries pretty quick. Not silicone though. Pricey there where's that? 20 quid cheaper at the place I use.

Don't care how good you think you are or how good the gear is. Everything behaves better over a base coat / layer. Everything. Once you figure out that base coating can actually be quicker cheaper and easier on the larger jobs to be done over a few days it's difficult to look back.

TC2 and 4 is their coloured Mineral Thin Coat. Not bad stuff to be fair. 70 a bag someone has mentioned sounds a tad steep.

I'll not mention how this chap got K Rend on the wall looking sharp on his first go yet some of the experienced guys here can't seem to make it work....

I feel all warm inside! :birra:

We use Rendit quite a bit. Used to work for James old man back in the day. Been spot on to be fair. Even delivered gear out the same day once or twice when I've cocked up. Some of the big builders merchants have no idea what day it is sometimes. Covered for cracks for 2 years as well.

Weird, never had that with it where did you get it from? It's not been sat around for a bit or something?

I'd have walked away from that job. High chance of it cracking before the payment cheque got wrote.

Ok.

You can get it from Rendit for similar money and they cover you for cracks for 2 years?

Yes mate, piece of cake really. Did the sills and dpc brick course as well. Just don't let it dry on windows like we never. Uhm, honest.

If you are a man and a feckless labourer, machines are quicker. If there's 2-3 of you that can spread each with the strength to hoof 2-3 bags up the scaffold ladder at once then a machine can be slower, sometimes by quite a bit. IMO. 2 machines and competent 3 guys can be a thing of beauty...

No chance of that mate.

It's quicker if anything. If you're new to rendering I wouldn't use FT full stop, it's for the old school guys who have been using it a while. Use the newer K1s as they are a better comparison for the likes of weber. If you're getting misses it's because you've missed, nowt to do with the...

Can you see the Ever build when it's on? Just used one Rendit are knocking out which seems good. There's is solvent based though, it dried quick and nowt seems to get through it.

FT has been around for a couple of decades fella, back when machines didn't exist and the contents of a plasterers Van contained a bucket, 20 Benson, a selection of bent trowels and the odd block of wood with loads of nails hammered through it. Even then, perfectly plumb well scraped and...

Different league entirely mate. Not used FT for a while now. I do like the finish of FT though, K1 is finer.

Use the K1 silicone different again and will take a rule. FT is for a man with a trowel and nowt else. The Silicone gear always needs a tad more knocking up for obvious reasons . Has weber changed the pral or is it me?

What's a machine got to do with Stevie Wonder having a go with a scratch pad?

He said he was worried about his warranty. No way ether K Rend or Weber would look at a wall with both their products on. Weber sil p ain't warranted on K rend and K rend would wash their hands of any wall of theirs with it on.

More power to ya my man. I'm interested in seeing your pics if no one else is. You'll be right. Think about running a stop bead under your eaves if you can, give you a straight edge to work to instead of rendering straight up. That can be the rough looking area for those that aren't used to it.

Big ass tubs

The mans a brickie, he's got most of the skill set, just needs to know how to apply it. It's not like he's some guy in a suit having a play. The hardest bit is the knowing when to scratch when you haven't used the stuff before. As long as he checks it every 30 mins he'll figure it out. It's his...

Yes, we have a few. Wouldn't bother with it for a job that size. We do a fair bit of render that you can't spray (brick) even if you wanted to. You get just get used to knocking up large mixes and getting it on in double quick time.

Wouldn't worry about mesh too much on existing solid brick and small job, but can't harm owt using it if you want to give it a try. Embed it in the base coat and float it in. Use hp12 to bed your beads it'll stick s**t to a blanket. If you're handy with a trowel and used to flattening up...

It's the top half of a house... You can have it on in 30 minutes from getting out the van.

You guys and your machines make me chuckle. We'd have the render on the wall and levelled off on a job that size before you'd finished knobbing about with the pressure gauge and squirting bags into the skip. Its literally 4 5bag mixes. In answer to the OP. Prime the walls with R7, 5mm of HP12...

We can get half a gable on whilst the soft lads are still oinking the machine out the van. Sprays are good if its one man and a labourer, provided it works out the van. 3 quick guys can outpace one though.

Funny that, some of us were spreading over entire estates long before machines put it on the wall for you. If we have problems with a machine on site today the tubs and trowels come out and we get a days spread on until we can get back and swop the machine.

Ay, this is the best bet all round. Remove all uncertainty.

Done this quite a bit in the past. The only difference between a bag if white and a bag of Sandstone is the pigment content. The bags are weighed to tight tolerances at the plant as its kitemarked so you can quite comfortably mix one bag if white to one of sandstone to half the pigment...

Jimbobs guide to spraying K1 with the Ritmo. First understand that K1 is slightly denser than Parex. Run a clamped pump, no reason not to it helps the R&S last longer, no matter what you spray. Run a shorter hose if possible, 20m or less. No need to run the gear like piss on a shorter...