S a plastering
Private Member
Does anyone use these for overboard ceilings if not what the fk are there uses
Always try to leave a minimum 5mm gap behind upvc door hinges so the plasterer can get his trowel onSame as Tony, painting dab on the back so joiners can get skirts onto door reveals. Sorting other folks cock ups.
Most my jobs are ali, if they haven’t put add ons either side you’ve had it.Always try to leave a minimum 5mm gap behind upvc door hinges so the plasterer can get his trowel on
Foamed em to a wall after hack off where plaster blew but wanted to save cornice so only had 12-15 to play with (£% off damaged boards @John j)Does anyone use these for overboard ceilings if not what the fk are there uses
Foamed em to a wall after hack off where plaster blew but wanted to save cornice so only had 12-15 to play withView attachment 73731
Their good for renovation. If you have to sheet lath under the level of the existing/ original plasterwork 12.5 will be sometimes, or more often, be too big for that purpose mate . I probably use them more than 12.5 if I think about it.Does anyone use these for overboard ceilings if not what the fk are there uses
Who ?You’ve boarded over King Charles
Who wouldn't ?Foamed em to a wall after hack off where plaster blew but wanted to save cornice so only had 12-15 to play with (£% off damaged boards @John j)View attachment 73731
I never really used 9.5... always was 12.5 even on overboards...
the thought of lifting a 12.5 now though is making me wince
You'll feel better for it mateI have a ceiling to tack next week.... for some reason I volunteered myself....
You’ve boarded over King Charles
Good mate !9.5’s are what the cheap arse DIYer’s use…..heard years ago BG were scrapping them but they still make em which will please at least half the c**ts on here
Yes always they're ideal because they will follow the shape of an uneven ceiling without putting too much pressure on the screws, bit lighter tooDoes anyone use these for overboard ceilings if not what the fk are there uses
That makes no sense what so everYes always they're ideal because they will follow the shape of an uneven ceiling without putting too much pressure on the screws, bit lighter too
So 9.5mm boards will follow the shape of an uneven ceiling…..so you end up with a new uneven ceiling then?Yes always they're ideal because they will follow the shape of an uneven ceiling without putting too much pressure on the screws, bit lighter too
No because you can plaster it flatSo 9.5mm boards will follow the shape of an uneven ceiling…..so you end up with a new uneven ceiling then?
Fk me
Just less unevenSo 9.5mm boards will follow the shape of an uneven ceiling…..so you end up with a new uneven ceiling then?
Fk me
I agree ianNo because you can plaster it flat
Well that would depend on how fkin uneven it is dipshit….are we talking just a few mil of skim to level it or half inch of bonding first?No because you can plaster it flat
I float ceilings on a regular basis, never of steps, always on planks, a staged room. Packing is not the way forward Imo.Well that would depend on how fkin uneven it is dipshit….are we talking just a few mil of skim to level it or half inch of bonding first?
Or you could do it the more obvious and logical way and pack joists out first to bring it below unevenness and then board it
Why?I float ceilings on a regular basis, never of steps, always on planks, a staged room. Packing is not the way forward Imo.
You cant me serious !Why?
Why put more weight/plaster directly onto a board than needs to be?
It wont fall of and is far quicker and accurate than packing then skim, that's why mate.Why?
Why put more weight/plaster directly onto a board than needs to be?
16 screws in all and not one is sunk in ! Annoying c**ts tbh !90 % of ceilings are uneven. We do new builds there always uneven unless there m.f . Because the joinery is always shite
I would just fill in any low spots and then skim, your method sounds harder and more time consuming, dipshitWell that would depend on how fkin uneven it is dipshit….are we talking just a few mil of skim to level it or half inch of bonding first?
Or you could do it the more obvious and logical way and pack joists out first to bring it below unevenness and then board it
How deep are the "low spots" we are talking about here ?I would just fill in any low spots and then skim, your method sounds harder and more time consuming, dipshit
Utter bolloxIt wont fall of and is far quicker and accurate than packing then skim, that's why mate.