A Guide to

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Would anyone be interested / kind enough to do a guide to on external Lime work ?

Mainly interested in the NHL 3.5 & 5 What would you use each one for ?
Also is it a 2 coat application with a scratch and a top ?
Is it ruled off ?
is it rubbed up ?
Is it sponged ?
Whats the general curing times ?
Whats the after care process ?
Hows it mixed ? Ratios ?

Done a little lime work internally a while ago but if honest was flying by the seat of me pants, all turned out well in the end, just interested to know a little more externally.

Cheers
 
well at this point render systems would come on aboard but jacko88 is well clued up on this. All render lime and sand works is two coat mate what substrate are you going over.
 
Its more of an interest thing Henry really, just being a spotter lol.
May have a extension coming up shortly which is new block work, and although i could do it in S&C its attached to a really old sandstone cottage, that has some Lime work inside and had heritage involved, The customer is keen for it to be done in lime with no beads etc.
 
i think mayti does abit of lime as well.....................think thats his name....................:RpS_unsure:

or failing that....................Claymonster....................:huh:
 
Well I would not let it put me off lime is very forgiving and wonderful to use, Like anything for the first time your always going to be thinking am I doing it correct and unless you have an other spread showing you. The internet is full of advice .
Sand is everything in lime rendering a good grade of sand would be my first port of call.
 
I did my first lime render job earlier this year. I bought the materials including sand from a merchant who specialised in lime. 25mm thick in 4 coats but 3 would have done it. I did it to the specs given by the lime producer and used 20mm beads for the base coats. The final 5mm was a skim spatted flat.

I ruled the base coats flat and the final base coat was flat and true. The sand is the secret.

I will be putting it on YouTube soon watch out for it.
 
Rigsby said:
I did my first lime render job earlier this year. I bought the materials including sand from a merchant who specialised in lime. 25mm thick in 4 coats but 3 would have done it. I did it to the specs given by the lime producer and used 20mm beads for the base coats. The final 5mm was a skim spatted flat.

I ruled the base coats flat and the final base coat was flat and true. The sand is the secret.

I will be putting it on YouTube soon watch out for it.
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Can you put us a link up mate please when its good to go. Cheers.
 
Airborne said:
Can you put us a link up mate please when its good to go. Cheers.
Click to expand...

Yes will do. Trying to edit the days together and then find out how to upload it.

Enjoyed it, best job of 2013! Great location where I spent my childhood and the best customer ever. £300 tip!
 
Sound mate, if your putting a scratch on first then a top coat, are the two coats at different strengths ? ie getting weaker or do those rules not apply ?

Do you rub your top coat up with a Poly / Wooden float and then sponge as with S&C ? And how long do you normally leave your scratch for to cure before topping ?

Cheers.
 
Just read some other threads on here regarding the importance of the sand quality, fine silca sand seems to be the way ahead, Is this the same as dried kiln sand ? or is it finer ?
 
The sand will be shown in the video. As I remember first coat 3:1 sand and lime and the coats got weaker and thinner. Bearing in mind it was August most of the coats was done on Mondays and Tuesdays so one week apart. The sand also started very sharp and fined down on the way out.

The top coat is used neat straight from the bag just add water. Rubbed up with a plastic float and sponge finish. On this particular job halfway into the front and the sun came out. Scorching hot. Had problems with it crazing but won it in the end but never again in the sun. All done as was told by the lime manufacturer.

I would be tempted to use K Lime if the customer will pay. Can't go wrong and sprayable.
 
Ive done a small amount of lime work but we had the premixed gear that comes in a crate and skim that came in buckets. Just had to add a little water and knock it up. Nice stuff to use actually.
 
Inside or out Steve ? I've used pre bagged stuff for internal, came like a stiff putty in bags that was put into buckets and knocked up to make it usable. Never done any NHL 3.5 or 5.
Some good examples on here, also some not so good examples on youtube at the minute.
 
Airborne.......you can use lime putty haired course outside on laths .ether two coat work or three just look after it
 
5 lime is normally used in exposed spots like capping on top churches sets very hard not used for rendering .on most I usually scud with splatter coat 1 lime 1 stones 1 and half clean washed Sharpe sand wet wall first ,let it cure depends on weather how long ,depending on surface I scratch out 2 half sand 1 lime with fibres give a good wetting first ,finish coat 3/1 no fibres ,curing times vary what time of yr in general you mist each coat down daily 5 to 7 days have some hessian if its warm you need to wet the hessian and cover stop shrinking and if its cold you need to cover keep frost of it,yes you can rule it of ,yes float it up yes you can sponge it ,be patient let each coat cure properly other wise you get fine cracks in your finish coat,important to mist down and protect your work
 
mayti said:
5 lime is normally used in exposed spots like capping on top churches sets very hard not used for rendering .on most I usually scud with splatter coat 1 lime 1 stones 1 and half clean washed Sharpe sand wet wall first ,let it cure depends on weather how long ,depending on surface I scratch out 2 half sand 1 lime with fibres give a good wetting first ,finish coat 3/1 no fibres ,curing times vary what time of yr in general you mist each coat down daily 5 to 7 days have some hessian if its warm you need to wet the hessian and cover stop shrinking and if its cold you need to cover keep frost of it,yes you can rule it of ,yes float it up yes you can sponge it ,be patient let each coat cure properly other wise you get fine cracks in your finish coat,important to mist down and protect your work
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Cheers for that Mayti What ever is layed on in the morning can it be rubbed up in the afternoon ? Or is it a next day jobbie ? Im guessing it hangs a lot longer.

Cheers
 
yes hangs longer needs to be pretty firm to consolidate properly get to stronger finish ,sometimes can be left over night depends on conditions but if bit stiff light spray with bit water come back to life
 
k-limes pre bagged is good stuff for external. just finished an old tenement back. 380 square metres of wet cast. scud coat scratch coat and scrim then butter coat and cast wetting in between all coats
 
Out of curiosity theres a vid on youtube of someone top coating lime over a sand & cement scratch would this not defeat the object of using lime in the first place ?
 
Another tip if you make your own ,mix up the day before your mix will be nicer to use ,keep floor area clean you can remix what you drop,can keep for couple of days just stop the air getting at it ,should never have waste .if using small bell mixer can put plastic dust bin lid on stop from choking yourself, let your mortar mix for a least 20 min.
 
mayti said:
Another tip if you make your own ,mix up the day before your mix will be nicer to use ,keep floor area clean you can remix what you drop,can keep for couple of days just stop the air getting at it ,should never have waste .if using small bell mixer can put plastic dust bin lid on stop from choking yourself, let your mortar mix for a least 20 min.
Click to expand...

I take it you are talking about non-hydraulic lime? The air drying and setting lime?
 
there is no great secret with lime really its just good practice , as with all plastering ,the sand should be kept dry you would be amazed by the water content of bulked sand!! makes a big difference when its starts to dry crazing etc.. as mayti says it must be mixed properly,and gauged properly its not a quick in and out job, but needs to mix tidy to get the best results for workability, as for ratio s etc.. for scratch coat, and render coats this can vary quite alot depending on the substrate , the same goes for the correct sand a good well graded sharp sand is sometimes hard to get hold of, try to find local pits or quarrys and try to match the original specs when doing restoration work, this type of work is becoming more poplar and so rightly so its a natural product that when applied properly will stand the test of time, oh and happy new year to all just got back from lanzarote!!!
 
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