advice on dry-lining a conservatory

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fruitcake

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Hey up

As the title says.

1) How high off the ground should i finish the boards,. I was planning on using 2peice packers of plasterboard. The reason I ask is because after Ive board and skimmed it, there will be illaminted flooring going down which is 5mm-10mm thick. (then 2inch skirting)

2) Providing the external wall of the house is plumb and level, - how far should i bring the reveals out past the wall? (the reveals of the french door are only 1 inch deep arghhh)

3) The one door - hinges are virtually next to the brick which is gona make boarding that particular reveal and pain in the ass. cant really bond it instead either. I was gona just board the reveal and cut round the 3 hinges. Any ideas or is that ok?

Im boarding round the dwarf walls aswell.

Is there any other info or advice that I might find usefull with regards to boarding and skimming a conservatory.

thanks for any help
 
Dab reveals first say you cut all ur reveals at 2 inch. This allows a level point round the room to work from .but if your a diy person I would seek some help
 
ive never thought about this till now but you know the problem of the possibility of damp transgressing the roof into the conservatory on the house wall if no cavity trays are installed?
dabbing it may cause damp patches to appear yes? all depends on the porosity of the house brick...

what if that gun foam were used? it doesnt soak up water like dabbing does...
 
Chris W said:
ive never thought about this till now but you know the problem of the possibility of damp transgressing the roof into the conservatory on the house wall if no cavity trays are installed?
dabbing it may cause damp patches to appear yes? all depends on the porosity of the house brick...

what if that gun foam were used? it doesnt soak up water like dabbing does...
Click to expand...
Isnt that stuff dead expensive though ?
 
yeah i suppose, for what it is...
i aint tried it yet cos i couldnt see the point when board adhesive does the job perfectly well but heres an example where i can see a use for it...
dunno if it fixes insulated board too.... but that would also be an option... garage conversions etc...
to be honest all i think it is is the same stuff as window fitters foam but with a lower expansion coefficient...
at the end of the day i suppose you cold use cheap gripfill....
 
I would board it to the floor, the skirting will cover the expansion gap of the laminate.

Some people waffle on about bringing damp up from the floor, but when you mention the floor has a damp proof membrain in it, they sort of look at their feet and wander off mumbling 'smart arse' or similar :)
 
nelly said:
I would board it to the floor, the skirting will cover the expansion gap of the laminate.

Some people waffle on about bringing damp up from the floor, but when you mention the floor has a damp proof membrain in it, they sort of look at their feet and wander off mumbling 'smart arse' or similar :)
Click to expand...

what about if youve got a leaking rad?
 
nelly said:
I would board it to the floor, the skirting will cover the expansion gap of the laminate.

Some people waffle on about bringing damp up from the floor, but when you mention the floor has a damp proof membrain in it, they sort of look at their feet and wander off mumbling 'smart arse' or similar :)
Click to expand...

Its not about bringing damp up it's incase there's a spillage or similar, say water from a mop etc..
 
Heres one I did...floor had damp proof membrane so brought the boards right down, wouldn't worry about leaks or spillages, if you are worried just leave 2mm and caulk. Wouldn't do your reveals first. Dab the walls first leave bout apprx 1 1/2 inch over on your reveals then dab the reveals in. On this job I couldn't dab the right hand window reveal so just mixed up some hardwall and finish and did it in one.

1st job I did after completing my c&g had to bring the step out a bit which required a few brain cells but otherwise straight forward.











Good Luck! :)

oh yeah I know the water marks are terrible come on alot since tat day! lol
 
i was gonna say whats with all the water marks until i saw that message at the bottom..but i spose ive still kind of said it.
 
Did you charge for that job?????????
Did you pass you C & G ??????
Did they teach you how to cross trowel / dry trowel /polish not Are you Polish?????????
Having said that ......... ive seen worse son.

Beading looks good !!!! TIP try to use less /no water in final stages !!!!!!!!!!!
 
Yep I did pass! And yep I did use way to much water! but that was 3 years ago! worked with alot of spreads since! £360 including mats :)
 
£360! How long did it take you? I did a kitchen bigger than what you've posted the other day and only charged £280 all in!
 
PhilPlaster said:
£360! How long did it take you? I did a kitchen bigger than what you've posted the other day and only charged £280 all in!
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I think that means he made 80 quid more than you for less work mate :)
 
haha, but if they've got a water meter on the job FreeD did then it would cost another £100 with the amount he leaves on the wall!
 
board the reveals first but cut them oversize then butt the wall boards to them when its all gone of cut the excess of, easy peasy.
Lucius
 
Its quite a common problem with patio doors we always order doors a few inches shorter and fit the extension bars to them much better finish nothing worse than seeing hinges covered in skim.so as sombody said take the disk cutter down the block just to give some room
 
lucius said:
board the reveals first but cut them oversize then butt the wall boards to them when its all gone of cut the excess of, easy peasy.
Lucius
Click to expand...

Ok if you don't mind hanging around waiting for the adhesive to go off on the reveals
 
u can usually squeeze a 9 mil board in behind flag or butt hinges but by far the best method (as previously mentioned) is to have a 20mm knock on up the hinge side... (only possible if your measuring and installing the doors yourself, its not something you can plane off the door and add on, just for those that dont understand plastic doors ;D)
failing that just order the door 25 mil less than opeing size as opposed to 10mil less and pack every fixing...
if your gonna board the reveals both sides you dont need the knock on (stick it on the head if your short in the height ;))
 
Fair comment Free as it is only small job but it dont take long to go of, when ime house bashing i do enough reveals in front of me to keep me going trust me its the quickest way.
Lucius.
 
flynnyman said:
hack the reveal back and do it properly it will look a right state with the hinges cut into the reveal.
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I couldnt it was already brick external wall of house inside conny.

As Chris said 9mm board fitted tight but just right. Sound job in the end, I turned round and skimmed it in the afternoon.

thanks for the replies
 
ime finding this difficult to explain, stick the reveals on first leaving the boards oversailing into the room say 6 inches comfortable enough to cut and snap of, then stick you wall boards on butted up to them when gone of run the knife round and snap of.
Lucius
 
Na nothing wrong with the way your explaining it just the way your saying to do it, take for example the door or your wall is slightly out once you cut your reveal back the margin might run out also if there is a reveal either side and lets say for arguements sake you have a head, the way your doing it once you cut it back the whole lot might be different margins. Cut your reveals all the same margin say an inch bigger and dab to them job done.
 
Get what you mean but we are dry lining here not plastering where you would measure your beads from the frame to keep the reveal, when boarding you should always have a full board around any opening, no straight cut plumb with the opening as it will crack, so if the frames out there is nothing you can do about it realy as you cant bend board to accomadate like you can a backing coat.
Lucius
 
dnt ever board to the floor if you do spill something it will get wet up the board get a real plasterer in to do the job one that wont board to the floor coz that is the wrong practice
 
quite right sidey but the last 2 jobs ive been on the architecs have insisted it sits on the floor.
Lucius
 
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