just started doing a few rendering jobs and love doing them albeit the traditional sand cement which I can do to a good standard l got a bungalow to do but in mono its onto Good brickwork etc if you guys where doing it what would be your preferred material would you treat brickwork or straight on with mono what size beads etc is it rule and spat Then next day scratch short or long tooth scratcher would be interesting to hear your methods so I can get a good over view cheers in advance guys
Advice on monocouche
- Thread starter bazzer
- Start date
plasterjfe
Private Member
Everone has a preference when it comes to material but remember its all mortar with pigment in it.
Spec for mono is 15mm so using 15 beads is a fail proof way of getting the right thickness.
Preference for me for the very best result is the spray apply anything with colour in it. 1 heavy pass lay the mesh and then top with a thinner pass rule up and then spatch.
Dependi g on your brickwork type u may need a prep coat each manufacturer has their own.
You probably hand app so make sure your labourer keeps the mixes coming with no breaks and every batch it exact water content or you may get shading or edging.
Nothing worse than mono thats been hamd applied and you can see every batch mix in sections om the wall.
Use an i section to get the scrape then tickle off with a scrape float.
Spec for mono is 15mm so using 15 beads is a fail proof way of getting the right thickness.
Preference for me for the very best result is the spray apply anything with colour in it. 1 heavy pass lay the mesh and then top with a thinner pass rule up and then spatch.
Dependi g on your brickwork type u may need a prep coat each manufacturer has their own.
You probably hand app so make sure your labourer keeps the mixes coming with no breaks and every batch it exact water content or you may get shading or edging.
Nothing worse than mono thats been hamd applied and you can see every batch mix in sections om the wall.
Use an i section to get the scrape then tickle off with a scrape float.
stuart23
Private Member
Do you not run the risk of halos doing a thinner second coat?
plasterjfe
Private Member
Not really mate but i wouldnt advise a novice to do it at first or hand apps that rely on slapping it fat so to speak with no method of ruling.
We stick to the basic rules of 2 coat. 2 coats flat and plumb ruled the flatter the app the easier the rule easier the rule flatter the wall, flatter the wall easy to scrape.
Mesh wants to be close o the surface for spec too final 3rd of the material.
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We stick to the basic rules of 2 coat. 2 coats flat and plumb ruled the flatter the app the easier the rule easier the rule flatter the wall, flatter the wall easy to scrape.
Mesh wants to be close o the surface for spec too final 3rd of the material.
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Thanks plasterjfe that's a really good over view mate thanks for taking the time to write it I would definitely feel more confident in doing it now I am gonna do the garden wall like I said can rule and spat no problem but like anything else getting timings etc correct Could be the crucial bit will post how I get on once again thank you
plasterjfe
Private Member
If your hand app u gotta be quick especially to rule it.
Check out the brick. If say u use weber it might need rendaid first etc parex u can prime with microgobetis or krend hp base.
Its a good idea to base it out and take some depth off it if your hand app then you can top out nice like in a pass without worrying about turning back to fill out
Check out the brick. If say u use weber it might need rendaid first etc parex u can prime with microgobetis or krend hp base.
Its a good idea to base it out and take some depth off it if your hand app then you can top out nice like in a pass without worrying about turning back to fill out
S a plastering
Private Member
you might benefit with a serrated edge aswell mate get all air pockets out
Mag
Active Member
Refina do both of what you want . Or Ebay really ?
S a plastering
Private Member
rule your first pass and your second pass when it's hard enough too scrape I section then finish off gently with the scratch pad
S a plastering
Private Member
long toothed scratcher is for same day scrape and short toothed for day after mate
Vincey
Private Member
Don't think I doing something right on the small ones I have done so far (5) when handballing.
Been using 15mm beads at tops at fascia but always seem to struggle getting the beads at top covered is this area alot better to get thick enough with machine or am I just crap?
Another little question does everyone use 15mm or 10mm dub out ?
Done a wall on my driveway today only 4.2 x 0.60 section flipping got it on to late and got caught in rain tonight, just finished it now but ain't happy with it to be honest again didn't get it thick enough along the top
Been using 15mm beads at tops at fascia but always seem to struggle getting the beads at top covered is this area alot better to get thick enough with machine or am I just crap?
Another little question does everyone use 15mm or 10mm dub out ?
Done a wall on my driveway today only 4.2 x 0.60 section flipping got it on to late and got caught in rain tonight, just finished it now but ain't happy with it to be honest again didn't get it thick enough along the top
S a plastering
Private Member
why didn't you cover it over mate weather showery at the mo
Vincey
Private Member
I got it on at 1 and it was hot 5-6pm flipping raining..backed me van up and chucked sheet up it's ok for me driveway but still thinking I only going to do this monocouche with a machine on jobs handballing seems to take to long to get thickness passed the 15mm beads from what I have done so far
Here's some pictures I'm open to critique.
Imo it's harder to get this s**t right than snc
S a plastering
Private Member
nowt wrong with looks good
S a plastering
Private Member
I always base coat now when handing it on saves time with the top coat
Vincey
Private Member
Do you mean
Base with weber ,scratch and then top weber?
Vincey
Private Member
I used some 10mm on another job and found a lot better to get thickness think I try that now always seems to be going ok until I have to get the last few mm passed 15mm
Mag
Active Member
Base cost then 10 MM hand balling
Arti
Well-Known Member
I used to struggle getting the thickness at the facia line and sometimes under window cills when hand balling. Use to be proper frustrating.
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FreeD
Private Member
10mm beads dabbed gives you 15mm. I found the best way to do mono by hand was 2 passes wet on wet, gear mixed up a bit thicker, but one coat, don't let the 1st pass skin up. Serrated edge on second pass, then spat, then scratch. If the brickwork is f+cked go with it and don't I section...if that's the finish the customer wants they have to except it won't be completely flat, otherwise you risk halos. Mono is best for new build. We use OCR and thin coat on re furb. OCR is good render, can get away with thickness.
Vincey
Private Member
How are you getting on with the machine ?
Gary Charles Plastering
New Member
FreeD
Private Member
Weber OCR over Rend aid...through the Ritmo.
FreeD
Private Member
Good mate, it's taken a while, we have had a few issues, blocked air, blocked material etc but once you know how to get these things sorted and work out the water setting for each material the Ritmo is brilliant. Just working as 2 now and the machine, medium size jobs, get the render on by around 10:30, have lunch, clean down the machine, then start finishing.
Gary Charles Plastering
New Member
I've got a job coming up and I'm going to be spraying on, is it good stuff to use and have you ever used the parex ocr bud. Cheers
FreeD
Private Member
Never used Parex mate, only ever Weber as it's local to me. We have used a few methods and find the best to be, spray, serrated edge, spat, once its picked up I Section to get it flat, then power float.
