i have to plaster two artexed walls but they have not been painted. it sis a small stipple affect so i will scrape back , but do i have to seal the walls . i have heard stories of plaster bubbling and falling off artex . can any one help with what i can seal them with and what ratio ??? ??? ???
artex
- Thread starter daz1968
- Start date
- Status
essexandy
The Lake Governor
I know I will be shot down for this but look at the HSE website, it will tell that unless you know for certain that the Artex was applied after a certain date then don't scrape it or you will be releasing asbestos into the air for both you and your client to breath in. They say the way to deal with Artex is to encapsulate it rather than scrape it.
richardbrown
Private Member
encapsulate = to cover the artex with bonding then skim so no need to scrape.
Andy this has been covered before and I always argue that the asbestos would be ENCAPSULATED within the artex so the risk would be almost zero.
Rich
Andy this has been covered before and I always argue that the asbestos would be ENCAPSULATED within the artex so the risk would be almost zero.
Rich
essexandy
The Lake Governor
Sorry must stop chewing on that dictionary, what I meant to say is completely cover the Artex without scraping it. ;D ;Dchurch said:
I've just done 3 ceilings by bond and setting them, when I told the guy about the asbestos he was more than happy to pay the extra, in his words "I don't want that sh*t near my kids and grand kids" enough said I think.
tex it all
Member
just keep skimming over that artex [i like to see it as prep work ]ready for the next artex pattern 
then 2 years later new owner skim it flat again ,its a never ending laugh but someone has to do it .till ceilings 2ft thick ;D
then 2 years later new owner skim it flat again ,its a never ending laugh but someone has to do it .till ceilings 2ft thick ;D
Pug
Well-Known Member
my old man died of mysothelia (a f**k**g horrible form of cancer caused by working with blue asbestos) so i've looked onto artex and asbestos quite keenly. white asbestos is very low risk you can scrape it and not worry, trust me. how many of you smoke and drink? smoking and drinking is responsible for 300,000 deaths a year, go figure
essexandy
The Lake Governor
[/quote
try it the day before to seal it or gypbond it mate ...if youre floating thermalite block try pvaing the day before instead of the same day and youll notice the difference
[/quote]
Why would you want to seal Thermolite blocks to float on, their suction is what I like about working on them?
try it the day before to seal it or gypbond it mate ...if youre floating thermalite block try pvaing the day before instead of the same day and youll notice the difference
[/quote]
Why would you want to seal Thermolite blocks to float on, their suction is what I like about working on them?
breathing in a bit of scraped artex is no worse then breathing in a load of dust from a bag of multi!!
I always scrape to hi-spots off, SBR/PVA it once then skim it within 15mins of that. Let the first coat go rocko, the 2nd it as normal. never had a prob in 13 years!! its all about the SBR!!
I always scrape to hi-spots off, SBR/PVA it once then skim it within 15mins of that. Let the first coat go rocko, the 2nd it as normal. never had a prob in 13 years!! its all about the SBR!!
S a plastering
Private Member
sbr bit extreme for a skim
essexandy
The Lake Governor
Why would you want to seal Thermolite blocks to float on, their suction is what I like about working on them?essexandy said:
[/quote]
Virtually all my work is with sand & cement and almost always on Thermalite type blocks but I have never sealed or wanted to seal them, I hate floating on any surface with low suction, but then I don't try to put the whole wall on before I start to rule it straight and true. But I can't argue with the mad accusation.spunky said:
richardbrown
Private Member
Whats your approach when rendering a lightweight wall then andy ???.
I run a roller over the wall I am about to render with a very weak pva mix like 5-1 then render and rule every 4-5 m2
I run a roller over the wall I am about to render with a very weak pva mix like 5-1 then render and rule every 4-5 m2
essexandy
The Lake Governor
I don't think I'm aloud to answer that really Richard in case a courser is reading. OK all you five day course guys promise too look away now.
Right now it's safe to talk, I firstly drop a screed down the right hand side of the wall and then if the wall is no more than about 12ft long I drop a screed down the left hand side, or if the wall is longer I drop a screed down the centre of the wall, then I drop back to the top right hand corner and render right across to the left hand screed but only coming down the wall about 18in to 2 ft at a time before ruling from screed to screed and then working down the wall using the same technique. I know it probably sounds like a lot hassle but when you are used to the routine it is a very quick and more importantly accurate way of rendering, and because you are always ruling off fairly small areas at a time the muck you remove with the feather edge is still wet enough to go straight back on the board and be put on again.
Right now it's safe to talk, I firstly drop a screed down the right hand side of the wall and then if the wall is no more than about 12ft long I drop a screed down the left hand side, or if the wall is longer I drop a screed down the centre of the wall, then I drop back to the top right hand corner and render right across to the left hand screed but only coming down the wall about 18in to 2 ft at a time before ruling from screed to screed and then working down the wall using the same technique. I know it probably sounds like a lot hassle but when you are used to the routine it is a very quick and more importantly accurate way of rendering, and because you are always ruling off fairly small areas at a time the muck you remove with the feather edge is still wet enough to go straight back on the board and be put on again.
warriorupnorth
Private Member
PICTURE FRAME
skimmin2day
Active Member
If the artex as been put on thinly (which often it is)... the chemical reaction when the plaster starts to set creates heat and this heat on artex described as above (put on to thinly) can cause bubbling and as a result make the plaster fall off.
if this happens youl have to scrape it off (not reccommended) or overboard (which the customer doesnt wanna pay for )
So if this bubbling happens put ur kit in the van and f**k off before the customer gets home and dont answer you phone for a week.TOP TIP !!!!!!
if this happens youl have to scrape it off (not reccommended) or overboard (which the customer doesnt wanna pay for )
So if this bubbling happens put ur kit in the van and f**k off before the customer gets home and dont answer you phone for a week.TOP TIP !!!!!!
essexandy
The Lake Governor
Don't kid yourself, do you think some of us would use such a "long hauled way of doing it" for no reason. I await the barage (I doubt their are many that use screeds on here).del said:just seems a long hauled way of doing it. for me i just normally use one horizontal screed on the wall about 3 quarters up the wall. sometimes dont bother with that, still get the same results. each to their own though
richardbrown
Private Member
I dont andy unless the wall is going to be tiled and its way out of upright, I just dont see the need. If the blockwork is good and upright I just lay and rule and make sure angles,ceiling line and skirting line is bang on and I have NEVER had a comeback.
I cant see it as being quicker at all but in reality it probably does give an overall better job.
As for the lightweight blocks I contacted celcon and they told me the blocks MUST be lightly wetted just prior to plastering but not soaked as soaking makes the block swell and when it dries will cause cracks.
Rich
I cant see it as being quicker at all but in reality it probably does give an overall better job.
As for the lightweight blocks I contacted celcon and they told me the blocks MUST be lightly wetted just prior to plastering but not soaked as soaking makes the block swell and when it dries will cause cracks.
Rich
- Status