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Always use screeds i was taught the picture frame method and it's bang on every time , you still have to throw the shiiite on the walls and rule it any how, so i don't know how you can call it a long arsed way of doin things,been puttin it on this way by hand for over thirty years, only time i don't use screeds if is if i spray on then it's ruled up and across
 
I know we have gone on about this before but I still dont see a real advantage apart from it taking longer unless the wall has to be 100% bollock on for tiling etc. As we have said before most stud walls are pissed as handcarts and if its so important why not do it when spraying ???.

Richard (rough cont)
 
A wall tiler can put his adhesive on up to about 12mm thick from what I've been told, so why would the tiled wall be more important to get right than the wall than someone has to sit in their lounge looking down a p*ssed internal or ceiling line. I can only speak from my experience but the builders I work for use me because they expect their walls to be of a high standard. I'm pretty careful with my work, but I've still made the odd rickett which luckily I've spotted in time to put right before being spotted by the people that matter to me (NHBC and the people paying).
 
Thats what I am saying andy I always make sure the angles, ceiling lines and skirting are dead straight. and look bang on and I have never had any complaints. If the block work is good and upright then as long as you can lay and rule properly the wall will be upright anyway.
I used screeds the other day in a bathroom where the walls were old stone and a good inch out of upright so the tiles didnt have different sized cuts.

To be honest I have worked with many plasterers and worked on a few big firms and sites all over devon and have never once seen anyone use screeds on any usual block float and set job.

Also andy if screeds are so important then why not use them when machine plastering one coat ??.

I do agree that by using them you are assured %100 bang on upright walls but as I have said before put your 3m straight edge on any timber stud wall and it'll be all over the place.
 
essexandy said:
A wall tiler can put his adhesive on up to about 12mm thick from what I've been told, so why would the tiled wall be more important to get right than the wall than someone has to sit in their lounge looking down a p*ssed internal or ceiling line. I can only speak from my experience but the builders I work for use me because they expect their walls to be of a high standard. I'm pretty careful with my work, but I've still made the odd rickett which luckily I've spotted in time to put right before being spotted by the people that matter to me (NHBC and the people paying).
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I fully agree.
 
Ive worked for architects that have given me a 2mm torance on redering in wet areas so the tiler dont have too cut a tile ??? how anal is that
 
Same here mate , had agents turn up on site with architects stuck a straight edge on the wall and rolled a pound coin down in between the edge and the wall and if it fell through at any point, do it again , but that's when they were keen and didn't let 5 day chancers on site 8)
 
i was taught to use screeds, but also taught to lay the wall on without them and still get the wall straight. not knocking people who use screeds, its the correct way
 
carlos said:
essexandy said:
A wall tiler can put his adhesive on up to about 12mm thick from what I've been told, so why would the tiled wall be more important to get right than the wall than someone has to sit in their lounge looking down a p*ssed internal or ceiling line. I can only speak from my experience but the builders I work for use me because they expect their walls to be of a high standard. I'm pretty careful with my work, but I've still made the odd rickett which luckily I've spotted in time to put right before being spotted by the people that matter to me (NHBC and the people paying).
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I fully agree.
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the thing is.. tile adhesive is about 12 quid for a smallish bag wheras s+c works out about 2.50 for the same amount.. if that... just a guess...
personally i f'ckin hate tiling walls that are miles out.... so much easier to spread 3 or 4m on a flat and plumb surface, rake it up and whack em on...
you get to thinking...'do i bond it level?, will i get away with it? specially if youve priced your own materials..'
 
Nobody said leave the wall a mile out, just prehaps not take quite as much care as usual.
 
Richard if you are rendering a wall say 8ft wide do you spread the whole wall and then rule both internals and then rule from one internal to the other? I've had guys work for me that do it this way and do a good job, but what they are doing is essentially the same as the screed method except that the muck they rule of the wall is going dry because they have put the whole wall on at once, and if they rule the wall of and then find it's not as upright as it needs to be then they have got to coat large areas of the wall again to bring it plumb. When using screeds I get the screeds right and then know if I need to put certain areas on either thicker or thinner. I've followed many many brickies over the years some good and some bad but I've never followed any that I haven't had to straighten or upright at least some of their walls, after all brickies are only nearly human ;D I have absolutely no wish to sound as if I'm knocking the way anyone goes about their jobs, I'm just saying what has worked for myself and others over many years, if what I say is of no use to anyone then please just ignore me..... oh you are ::)
Just read your next post Chris, thats my point, I make sure all my walls are right tiled or not.
 
the point I am making is.... does it really matter if a wall is not %100 upright... the answer is no it does not matter. as long as its not miles out and all the angles are straight and look good and crisp its all that matters.

If we are going by the book then yes use screeds but as I have said I do a good job and have no complaints without.

any way Im just popping to site with my belt sander to give that ceiling a final trowel :)
 
carlos said:
Nobody said leave the wall a mile out, just prehaps not take quite as much care as usual.
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yeh i know mate, i was just making the point that ive seen some people leave a bathroom rough as a badgers arse using the excuse that 'its getting tiled floor to ceiling anyway'... thereby completely missing the point ;D
 
Chris W said:
carlos said:
Nobody said leave the wall a mile out, just prehaps not take quite as much care as usual.
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yeh i know mate, i was just making the point that ive seen some people leave a bathroom rough as a badgers arse using the excuse that 'its getting tiled floor to ceiling anyway'... thereby completely missing the point ;D
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As I'm sure we all have. What I ment was keep the wall flat and upright just don't trowel up as much
probably just twice. Helps get the tiles a key! Lol!
 
carlos said:
Chris W said:
carlos said:
Nobody said leave the wall a mile out, just prehaps not take quite as much care as usual.
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yeh i know mate, i was just making the point that ive seen some people leave a bathroom rough as a badgers arse using the excuse that 'its getting tiled floor to ceiling anyway'... thereby completely missing the point ;D
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As I'm sure we all have. What I ment was keep the wall flat and upright just don't trowel up as much
probably just twice. Helps get the tiles a key! Lol!
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On most of the jobs I work on we don't skim the walls that are to be tiled, the tilers prefer to work on the S&C as it has as it has less suction and a better key than working on finish.
 
Most of the time Carlos, I much prefer it to hardwall or browning, although more and more jobs I'm pricing are Dot & dabbed at least on the external walls. I'd much prefer to skim on S&C than board any day of the week. Blo*dy architechs. :'(
 
Never skim S&C which has to be tiled as it wont take the weight of most of the natural stone used often nowadays. I always use rules in tiled areas and get it to the millimetre as often i am doing the tiling. Modern tile adhesive is called thinset and that is exactly what it is thin not for dubbing out plasterers should leave tiled areas perfectly flat and plumb in tiled areas that is your job.
Lucius.
 
Multi-finish on a S&C backing can be covered with up to 20kg of tiles per sq.m. if needed.
As we have all said the walls should be floated to a good standard for tiling no argument there.
 
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