Aviation snips

G

GT Cornicer

New Member
HI all

I was wandering if anyone knows where I can get a set of left and right aviation snips with smooth blades? Even a Google search kept coming up with serrated blades.

Also when I run a profile out ready for fibreglassing, should I shellac it within a couple of hours or when the plaster has fully dried?

I'm cutting the zinc today so any tips to make it smoother, easier are much appreciated. I have done it on a course but I want it to be decent as I'm super fussy!
 
GT Cornicer said:
HI all

I was wandering if anyone knows where I can get a set of left and right aviation snips with smooth blades? Even a Google search kept coming up with serrated blades.

Also when I run a profile out ready for fibreglassing, should I shellac it within a couple of hours or when the plaster has fully dried?

I'm cutting the zinc today so any tips to make it smoother, easier are much appreciated. I have done it on a course but I want it to be decent as I'm super fussy!
Click to expand...
Shellac straight away
 
mikeadams1985 said:
no chance, let it dry as much as possible.
shellac reacts with water untill its set. if theres anywater on the surface the shellac will flake off easily
Click to expand...
Thanks mate. We did it the same day on the course but obviously no time to wait. Will run out a foot of the plaster to make sure I sanded the zinc well enough before I run 3 metres.
 
mikeadams1985 said:
no chance, let it dry as much as possible.
shellac reacts with water untill its set. if theres anywater on the surface the shellac will flake off easily
Click to expand...
So when you run a mould you don't shellac ready for casting straight away ?? You leave it a day? 2/3 days ?? Rubbish!!

I've always shellacked straight away , well an hour at least and never had any problems
 
Just googled the shellac debate and saw this. Doesn't mean it's right I know, but it may be?

Shellac Liquid sealer (french polish). The traditional sealer for plaster moulds or patterns, being spirit based it is not softened by solvents such as styrene. For plaster reverse moulds it is best applied while the the wet plaster is still warm from casting. Failing this if the cast can't be warmed it should be left to dry before applying the shellac. Not recommended for sealing plaster prior to applying silicone rubber.
 
What i was saying was if theres any water on the surface it will peel, we do shellac after an hour or so as you say but if theres any real dampness when applying on the surface it will peel off..
im not saying bone dry, just make sure theres no wet spots on the surface...
 
mikeadams1985 said:
What i was saying was if theres any water on the surface it will peel, we do shellac after an hour or so as you say but if theres any real dampness when applying on the surface it will peel off..
im not saying bone dry, just make sure theres no wet spots on the surface...
Click to expand...

Why would there be any water or wet spots on a newly run mould ?? The final pass will make sure there's none of that going on
 
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