Beautiful Art Deco restoration

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Carpenter

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Hi All.


Fist let me introduce my self.
Mark Soper. Carpenter with a small building company.


I would if possible like to ask your expertise and knowledge on a cracking property.....
When I mean cracking its got loads of them so please let me explain. There is a lovely property that has been purchased by my farther and I with his 35 years of military pension and my savings, so its being done on a very careful budget.
The property is a 1925ish Art Deco building that is rendered out side in a lovely white small grained finish..... Well that was when it was first built. It's got cracks running all over it from a lot of neglect and subsidence.
I will have the cracks repaired by a helix system so that's not an issue and parts rebuilt as there beyond repair.


Ok this is the conundrum..... Do I have to take off all the old render and start from scratch taking it back to the brick work. This is were I cross my fingers. Or is there a system that once all the offending cracks are repaired could it be re dressed in a very thin coat of render over the top of the old stuff . I think it's got it's own key as the substrate is almost a very fine dash but not a pebble dash. I would like it white in color with a fine dash/grain finish trying to replicate the exsisting?
This is a large property and taking off the old render would and will take time and money...


Thanks for reading and any helpful info would be grateful.


Regards Mark
 
i would have to see the building before i could come up with a solution, as to what is required.
there has been movement, as you are going to do crack repairs with the helix rod system.
if you reply with what town the property is in, there may be someone on here that is local to you, and has experince of this type of work.
 
Art Deco ,should be a smooth flat render finish ,as for the cracking ,when they were rendered at the time they thought the stronger mix the better ,so the cracks i,m guessing your seeing are hopefully just render cracks ,but as Malc said got to see it first
 
Thanks for the quick reply.

The parinter system looks good. I am presuming you need to put on about a 3mm coat on old render is this thick enough..... Would it be meaty enough to hide the scaring of the old repairs......?
Is there any experience of this product be used by the members what's the pros and cons and is it a quick shoot and scoot solution as it seems a bit to good to be true....?
 
Hi All.


Fist let me introduce my self.
Mark Soper. Carpenter with a small building company.


I would if possible like to ask your expertise and knowledge on a cracking property.....
When I mean cracking its got loads of them so please let me explain. There is a lovely property that has been purchased by my farther and I with his 35 years of military pension and my savings, so its being done on a very careful budget.
The property is a 1925ish Art Deco building that is rendered out side in a lovely white small grained finish..... Well that was when it was first built. It's got cracks running all over it from a lot of neglect and subsidence.
I will have the cracks repaired by a helix system so that's not an issue and parts rebuilt as there beyond repair.


Ok this is the conundrum..... Do I have to take off all the old render and start from scratch taking it back to the brick work. This is were I cross my fingers. Or is there a system that once all the offending cracks are repaired could it be re dressed in a very thin coat of render over the top of the old stuff . I think it's got it's own key as the substrate is almost a very fine dash but not a pebble dash. I would like it white in color with a fine dash/grain finish trying to replicate the exsisting?
This is a large property and taking off the old render would and will take time and money...


Thanks for reading and any helpful info would be grateful.


Regards Mark

What a nicely worded, easy to read first post. If only all were like this.

As Steve has said Parinter would appear to offer the solution but no one can be sure without first having a look.
 
If you are wanting to go over the top of the existing then maybe Pairinter + or some other Co's version.

What you have to consider is What is the new render going onto? The original render? Years of paint? Is it all cleanable?

You will need some off here to have a look at it. Also are you putting the original art deco detailing back?
 
The original render is off white in color and as long as it matches it with out needing painting every 3 years I would use it........ I would use easy fill if it worked....! That's not going to happen though.
Can I post photos of the property and give all your arcane knowledge a better view, It's nice knowing that there are sterling lads out there so a big thank you
 
If you were to use parinter can you get a flat finish or would you have to top it with a bucket coat
 
Can't seem to post a picture by iPad so I haven't a clue how you do it on this site.....
Also is the Parinter a finish coat or would it need a finish coat? If that makes any sense....
 
Spunk you can scratch it back like mono. In fact I would go as far as saying its mono with some magic sticking dust in it. It's G00 in colour or natural white.
 
Can't seem to post a picture by iPad so I haven't a clue how you do it on this site.....
Also is the Parinter a finish coat or would it need a finish coat? If that makes any sense....

If you don't mind mono it can be finished however if you want a smooth rubbed up look you will need to top it with a acrylic top coat which I would say is more in keeping with a art deco building. I would advise a fine grain possibly sprayed.

If the building has movement it will crack again however acrylic has some give in it so hairline cracks may not come through.
 
Parinter is lovelly stuff. Essentially a parinter thincoat system is what you need, very straightforward and the results can be spectacular especially if you source someone local who can spray the 0.5 or 1mm dpr finish. Check out my parex sprayed thread in the machine section on how to renovate any profiles you may have at the same time
 
Art deco was flat and should be if it is going to be art deco.

If you want to have a look at art deco examples and are prepared to travel a bit then Napier in New Zealand. The whole City is Art deco and any modern building in modern renders are called modern deco. A combination of new styles with a bit of art deco chucked in. Fascinating City for Art Deco fans.

I have been there and have loads of photo's. Some really good colour schemes. If someone can tell me how to upload a photo I will post my favourite art deco building.

Have you still got the original steel art deco windows? If they are plastic or wood then you will get away with converting this house into a modern deco. A modern render finish like mentioned below but with a bit of art deco detailing.

I have 2 examples of art deco on my website. Both traditional sand and cement render painted. One is mine the other is in Napier (bungalow).
 
Just looked at some of the pic's with that spray on parmurex looks just the sort of thing that would enhance the property. Is it pricey stuff.....?
 
Yes. All modern renders are pricey but they are good if done correctly.

With rendering 'you pays your money and you takes your choice' as Maggie T once said.
 
We are Medway based so Sheppy is no problem :RpS_thumbsup:

It's not the rather sorry looking art deck house on the left hand side of the road that leads up Minster hill is it?
 
It's got some original windows but there rust ridden and will need replacing. I have spoken to one of the secretary's who run the Art Deco society in New Zealand. Nice lady, i sent her some photos and she sensed the struggle that it would take to do it up. I love Art Deco and this property has made it in the local paper a few times and a few people want to do a homes under the hammer program ( Not my cup of tea )
 
If you don't mind mono it can be finished however if you want a smooth rubbed up look you will need to top it with a acrylic top coat which I would say is more in keeping with a art deco building. I would advise a fine grain possibly sprayed.

If the building has movement it will crack again however acrylic has some give in it so hairline cracks may not come through.

thats why you incorporate 5mm mesh in to wrap it with 80mm overlaps, thus no movement in your finish.
 
You mean wrapping the whole build in EML...... That would cost a kings ransom.

Is it solid wall? You will find in the next 10 years or so the Govt will want either the outside walls or all the outside walls on the inside insulating one way or another.

Get it done now rather than twice.
 
its not eml. it alkaline mesh on rolls that you bed in with your parinter base coat. currier knows his stuff so he'll tell you that.
 
Email me some contact details to [email protected]

It's about time someone sorted that place out! I've always looked at it whenever we go past and thought it was such a shame to see it looking like that.
 
The windows need to be Critall. They are still manufacturing. Costs a mint but makes the building look genuine Art Deco.

May be cheaper to modern Deco?
 
That parex job of mine is a moohassive Victorian villa with all sorts of shapes etc....the clients have opted for 100 plustherm grey eps giving a u value of .28 or so I think. With insulated lightweight profiles added. Have you considered green deal funding but you source the firm. Too far for me but as an example I'm going to be green deal accredited shortly to carry out the work. Maybe someone off here in a similar situation could advise on the insulated route funded?
 
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Yes crittall windows do cost a mint. I will be hunting for a good price on them but I assume it will cost a second mortgage.
My email is [email protected] I dare not post my mobile as I would be hounded.
have emailed you with mobile my number.
 
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