boarding ceiling and leaving existing coving

[Deleted member 29624]

Hi all, clue is in the title, if I wanted to remove an old ceiling and re board while leaving coving would i be best to leave some of the old ceiling around the edges so I could tape between the old and new or cut flush with the coving. If cutting flush how would you stop a crack appearing around the edges.

Probably another daft question but im going to keep asking them as im interested and as I think things through these sort of questions pop into my mind. Again just theory not actually doing the job but would like to eventually as all the ceilings in my house are wallpapered and would make a good opportunity to get an electrician to drop a few new sockets down into certain rooms.

 

[Jgreenplastering]

I use a multi tool to cut into the edge.
Use 12.5mm and skim over.
Any gap is filled with the board and skim.
Can always use caulk before decorating.
OR

If standard coving I'll leave a 10-25mm gap and stop bead round actually looks nice.

OR
If detailed cornice I'll add some small timber detail once boarded to finish the flush joint of board meeting cornice.

 

[Deleted member 29624]

I did thing that you could just caulk around the edge but was worried id sound like a mong if I suggested it

 

[Deleted member 29624]

Can you use the stop bead method if youre removing old board or is that just for if you are overboarding and keeping the coving.

 

[Deleted member 29624]

Just read my message...obviously you cant as youd csee the joists

 

[ggb plasterers]

I made a nice feature by dropping level metal stud and putting spots on sides

 

[funkycarl]

I did a job for a mate of mine years ago I set the depth on a circular saw so it was just the same depth as the existing ceiling and used the coving as a straight edge and cut all the way round the room pulled down the middle new boards up skimmed back into the coving job done

 

[Vincey]

Hi all, clue is in the title, if I wanted to remove an old ceiling and re board while leaving coving would i be best to leave some of the old ceiling around the edges so I could tape between the old and new or cut flush with the coving. If cutting flush how would you stop a crack appearing around the edges.

Probably another daft question but im going to keep asking them as im interested and as I think things through these sort of questions pop into my mind. Again just theory not actually doing the job but would like to eventually as all the ceilings in my house are wallpapered and would make a good opportunity to get an electrician to drop a few new sockets down into certain rooms.

U had a couple of good alternatives there but why don't u just rip down the coving ...IMO bloody ball ache to board with coving up and looks better clean edges.if it's cornice people say it's character fair enough clean edges and fresh ceiling are better if it's crumbling down though

 

[Deleted member 29624]

U had a couple of good alternatives there but why don't u just rip down the coving ...IMO bloody ball ache to board with coving up and looks better clean edges.if it's cornice people say it's character fair enough clean edges and fresh ceiling are better if it's crumbling down though

It wasn't me who wallpapered and coved but whoever did wallpapered first then coved....if I pull the coving off then all the wallpaper comes down. I may well just rip it all down anyway as I said might have some new sockets which will wreck the paper. I like to ask for the work around even if I dont use them, means another bit of knowledge in the bank.

 

[Jgreenplastering]

It wasn't me who wallpapered and coved but whoever did wallpapered first then coved....if I pull the coving off then all the wallpaper comes down. I may well just rip it all down anyway as I said might have some new sockets which will wreck the paper. I like to ask for the work around even if I dont use them, means another bit of knowledge in the bank.

If you cut the wall paper first it won't!

 

[Deleted member 29624]

Lol.....good point

 

[Nicm]

I'd take the coving down as plaster man suggested.I'm thinking of the ceiling joists,you may end up putting timber in to screw your slab if you don't.Anyway coving is'nt that expensive.

 

[Jgreenplastering]

I'd take the coving down as plaster man suggested.I'm thinking of the ceiling joists,you may end up putting timber in to screw your slab if you don't.Anyway coving is'nt that expensive.

Cornice is the more trickier one isn't it.
What would you do then, say overboard is needed but cornice to stay?

 

[Nicm]

Cornice is the more trickier one isn't it.
What would you do then, say overboard is needed but cornice to stay?

Before I over boarded I'd have all timbers marked with chalk lines.If I've no joist to screw the end of my slab to I'm going to have to either remove a section of the ceiling and somehow get timber up there, or else pva that section and use a few small dots of bonding compound and prop the end of the slab.if the slab is below the top lip of cornice then any of the other guys solutions.

 

[Jgreenplastering]

Before I over boarded I'd have all timbers marked with chalk lines.If I've no joist to screw the end of my slab to I'm going to have to either remove a section of the ceiling and somehow get timber up there, or else pva that section and use a few small dots of bonding compound and prop the end of the slab.if the slab is below the top lip of cornice then any of the other guys solutions.

Christ that's long winded ain't it?
99% of the time cornice is in older properties which will have a plast lath ceiling so even if it didn't catch a joist it's only the smallest of sections in the corners running opposite to joists and will catch a lath.

 

[malc]

i would remove the cove / cornice overboard and skim the ceiling and replace the cove or cornice. it takes about 1 hour to fit a cove to a room and not much longer to fit a cornice.

 

[Deleted member 29624]

i would remove the cove / cornice overboard and skim the ceiling and replace the cove or cornice. it takes about 1 hour to fit a cove to a room and not much longer to fit a cornice.

I bet the problem is a lot of customers would see it as an extra X amount youre asking them to spend that they begrudge as the existing is fine....just saying from their mindset not mine

 

[malc]

i do not trade at the low end of the market. it is my way or it does not happen.

 

[Deleted member 29624]

Fair enough mate, wasnt questioning your way....wouldnt open with the above statement to new customers though.

 

[adamd]

I did one recently where is has really nice detailed coving that couldn't be removed .... had to use 9.5mm boards but luckily the joists were only 300 mm apart ... anyways was boarded upto the coving edge then a stop bead fitted to create a new lip ... was the only way of doing it as the ceiling was fooked ..

Like has been said though if you can remove coving / board and recove ....

 

[PlasterCraftDundee]

Keeping on the coving subject, what would you guys say was the best adhesive to stick cove up that would be going over a painted surface? I thought about just using pink grip and maybe catching a few studs with screws, then just caulk the edges and fill in the mitres with the adhesive as normal

 

[malc]

for coving, i would cut the fitting area with a stanley knife, then a coat of pva. fixing with cove adhesive.

 

[PlasterCraftDundee]

for coving, i would cut the fitting area with a stanley knife, then a coat of pva. fixing with cove adhesive.

I would normal score the wall/ ceiling but this house has just been taped so i'd just be scoring the plasterboard, wasnt sure if that would provide a good enough key, but with a coat of pva would probably stop the chalk from the plasterboard sucking the adhesive

 

[Fatarm]

Thought you said a painted surface?
If its just taped and gyp ...just go with cove addy.

 

[Arti]

lately ive found easifill is canny gear for coving, i still put the odd screw in for belt and braces an al that

 

[PlasterCraftDundee]

Thought you said a painted surface?
If its just taped and gyp ...just go with cove addy.

Yeah its been taped originally and is now painted

 

[malc]

I would normal score the wall/ ceiling but this house has just been taped so i'd just be scoring the plasterboard, wasnt sure if that would provide a good enough key, but with a coat of pva would probably stop the chalk from the plasterboard sucking the adhesive

we always apply a thin coat of pva. if not the plasterboard/ plaster will suck the adhesive too much, killing its strength. it also makes it easy to clean off any adhesive
we would not score if straight onto plasterboard.

 

[Fatarm]

Yeah its been taped originally and is now painted

Just go wiv malcs method then..score and glue.

 

[Fatarm]

lately ive found easifill is canny gear for coving, i still put the odd screw in for belt and braces an al that

Aye marra.me too.
Think its the same gear in a different bag??

 

[Arti]

Aye marra.me too.
Think its the same gear in a different bag??

Fewk naa's marra................even if you asked BG they wouldn't tell ya

 

[PlasterCraftDundee]

we always apply a thin coat of pva. if not the plasterboard/ plaster will suck the adhesive too much, killing its strength. it also makes it easy to clean off any adhesive
we would not score if straight onto plasterboard.

Sorry I might have worded that wrong, the house is about 18 months old all been taped and is now all painted, I was also a bit worried scoring the painted plasterboard, with the wet adhesive and weight of the cove I thought there could be a chance of the paper seperating from the board?

 

[malc]

Sorry I might have worded that wrong, the house is about 18 months old all been taped and is now all painted, I was also a bit worried scoring the painted plasterboard, with the wet adhesive and weight of the cove I thought there could be a chance of the paper seperating from the board?

do not score the plasterboard, just a thin coat of pva.