Boxing in a steel

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alex335

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Hi all,

Looking for some plaster boarding advise, how would you attach plasterboard to the bigger rhs steel? From Googling I understand using cls in the I shape for the smaller beam but I don't see a way for the rhs?

Appreciate the help
(this is an old pic before the doors and all were finished)

Boxing in a steel
 
I.ve done this loads of times. But i only use gypsum board adhesive. Scratch adeshive on steel . Then dot bottom on when its set . Dots sides out to make rsj square then dot on to them ....never had a fail
 
Cheers guys, good advice.

Yeah its the box section i'm referring to, its a smooth/straight surface on the slide and bottom so there is nowhere to knock in timber noggins

@Stevieo Hilti'ing timber to the steels and then attaching plasterboard to the timber sounds like a good plan. Would you need to use 50x75mm cls timber or could you use something thinner so the boards sit closer to the steel? I presume the plasterboard screws wouldn't need 50mm of timber to bite into, but i'm not sure with it being double boarded?
Would you do 400-600mm spacings?

Coincidentally we had some trades lads in the office today, they said they would use pink grip to attach timber to the steel then attached the plasterboard to the timber.
@John j would you recommend gypsum board adhesive over pink grip to give a better fix?

Cheers
Alex
 
alex335 said:
Cheers guys, good advice.

Yeah its the box section i'm referring to, its a smooth/straight surface on the slide and bottom so there is nowhere to knock in timber noggins

@Stevieo Hilti'ing timber to the steels and then attaching plasterboard to the timber sounds like a good plan. Would you need to use 50x75mm cls timber or could you use something thinner so the boards sit closer to the steel? I presume the plasterboard screws wouldn't need 50mm of timber to bite into, but i'm not sure with it being double boarded?
Would you do 400-600mm spacings?

Coincidentally we had some trades lads in the office today, they said they would use pink grip to attach timber to the steel then attached the plasterboard to the timber.
@John j would you recommend gypsum board adhesive over pink grip to give a better fix?

Cheers
Alex
Click to expand...

So far as I recall - and it's been a while, I don't usually get involved with new build - we used 3x2. The joiner was concerned about going straight through the wood with 2x1 - I know you can get different powered charges, but I dunno much about them.

I'd do 400 centres to be on the safe side.

Why would you pink grip timber to the steel, then screw to the timber? If you're going down that route, may as well just gripper the board straight to the steel.
 
we dab the board and push it onto the soffit, dub a few odd pieces into the flange , left to set ,then dab the sides. this is the fastest method.
 
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