brand new ceiling repaired 3 times, still cracking...

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Try pushing the boards up where the cracks are, if theres movement that would indicte he's missed the joists. If youre nit gonna re board etc you could cut sections of the board out at right angles to the crack and slide foot long lengths of timber (skirting etc) into the void behind the boards. Then screw up thru the p/board into the timber above forming a brace for the boards.

If there is no movement you could skrim the cracks, put a coat of bonding backing coat with fibres thru it and skim (well get ur spread to )

Now that problems solved I'm off to the pub :RpS_thumbup:
 
Airborne said:
Was giving you some advise mate not sugesting its your responsibility. Maybe i should have phrased my post a bit clearer.

Putting aside that the boarding is shite and that he robbed you blind to do it, why have you gone ahead and completly decorated the whole room if the jobs not been right from the start ?

By screwing either side of the cracks ensuring fixings both sides into joists, scrimming, PVa'ing and over-skimming will fix the problem.

I know it should have been done right first time mate, but a basic over-skim will put it right, no need to start ripping the whole room out and starting from scratch.

AB
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we were due to move back in early next week and the entire house was ebing decorated - he assured me that the repairs he had done would last 20 years... he was warned that it will start getting expensive if it starts cracking again as he would be responsible for the decorating, he now just says the decorating insnt his responsibility and hes done everything right.
 
i am not after money back or compensation or anything like that, just want the room back to the way it was before the fire plastered and painted , hence me allowing him to do 3 sets of repairs already. Unfortunately my confidence in him is now very much lacking....
 
1100 beer tokens JJ ,, wot made ya pay that out ,, abart 20 booads = £120 ,, skim 3 bags £15 ,, covin £25 ,, fibre tape £3 tops and a box a screws £10 tops ,, skip ,, all plaster waste and not mixed ,, only mini skip needed £60 - £70 ,, and did he av any cut offs from board and were they all same size ,, if so he,s just flown booads through and left them flappin ,, :RpS_scared:
 
jjokeef said:
we were due to move back in early next week and the entire house was ebing decorated - he assured me that the repairs he had done would last 20 years... he was warned that it will start getting expensive if it starts cracking again as he would be responsible for the decorating, he now just says the decorating insnt his responsibility and hes done everything right.
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The blokes a w**k*r. Easyfilling and sanding is not the answer, he should have bit the bullet and put it right first time. Sounds like hes took a wedge of money of you and run. Get it done properly and send him the bill, if he wont pay it wind him up. hope you get it sorted.
 
did we ever find out where the job is?? please dont say up north cos thats anywhere past watford gap
 
Apart from not staggering the joints I can't see what he's done wrong? Id bet my house on it its nothing to do with too thin or the way the scrims applied, without seeing it I'm with the plasterer on this one
 
bobsterdobbin said:
1100 beer tokens JJ ,, wot made ya pay that out ,, abart 20 booads = £120 ,, skim 3 bags £15 ,, covin £25 ,, fibre tape £3 tops and a box a screws £10 tops ,, skip ,, all plaster waste and not mixed ,, only mini skip needed £60 - £70 ,, and did he av any cut offs from board and were they all same size ,, if so he,s just flown booads through and left them flappin ,, :RpS_scared:
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the quote was actually £1250 including skip. I deducted £150 when I posted the price paid for labour/materials only...
 
spunky said:
Apart from not staggering the joints I can't see what he's done wrong? Id bet my house on it its nothing to do with too thin or the way the scrims applied, without seeing it I'm with the plasterer on this one
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thats strange as everyone I have spoken too so far said that you shouldnt be able to see the scrim though the plaster , nor have a visible hump where every joint is just after being plastered.... please give a possible reason for it to happen in your opinion then considering that the previous ceiling wasnt cracked and nor are any of the others in the house, or any of my neighbours after talking to them today - one with a new ceiling the same as mine that was done last year...
 
a couple of odd posts there if considering as I have been told that staggering is actually a basic requirement.....
 
spunky said:
What do you mean by a couple of odd posts jokef?
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what i meant was posts saying they couldnt see what had been done wrong, but without any explaination of why it was happenning when I have been given several possible reasons previously, and pointed out more than just not staggering the boards... just seemed odd to me.. maybe not
 
spunky said:
Do you know if they were tapered edge or standard edge board?
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cant remember , although i was there I was in and out when they were doing it as i was busy elsewhere.
I will try and take pics, the humps are more evident a certain times of the day depending on shadows/light
 
It is cracking where the paper edge of the boards meet. How is that the fault of the plasterer?

What are the distances between the joists (the centres)and what is the thickness of the timbers?
 
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I would phone the insurance company & tell them your not happy seen as they chose the plasterer for you and now it's all cracked.
It's their problem to sort it out not yours.
It should be guaranteed anyway.
 
The bound edge of the plasterboard should span the joist not run along it ,I dont know for sure if it has done here. A joiner or some one should have put noggins in at 1200 so the ceiling looked like a grid if you will. then the bound edge would have had a fixing in it too to support it. Who the bollix said the scrims not been applied properly? its probably self adhesive not bandage. Lay the tapes down, then first coat and lay down. The joints would then have had three coats. Just my opinion mind.
 
I can't see how you can physically apply plaster to a wall so tight the joints would crack, if you rang lafarge or bg or whoever and said it wasn't too tight they'd probably say oh it's too thick
 
spunky said:
I can't see how you can physically apply plaster to a wall so tight the joints would crack, if you rang lafarge or bg or whoever and said it wasn't too tight they'd probably say oh it's too thick
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i have no idea what you are talking about, who said that plaster had been applied to walls or said it was too tight?? or have i missed a post here?
 
in my oppinion if he aint staggered it he s probably not boarded very well,im of the oppinion you can butt the boards together to tight there for not allowing plaster through scrim and into slight gap which results in a stronger joint if to tight and then with people walking above it can lead to cracking.
 
DannyMac said:
It is cracking where the paper edge of the boards meet. How is that the fault of the plasterer?

What are the distances between the joists (the centres)and what is the thickness of the timbers?
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if the boards and scrim ahvent been applied correctly which are menat to strengthen the joints then obviously thats the fault of the plasterer, your statement seems a litltle odd to me again?
The joists are at 450 centres and are 9x2 timbers
 
If the boards are not staggered then who knows what happens.

I would guess there is no strength in the ceiling, probably resulting in cracks all over.

Did he screw the ceiling up or nail it? Nails a big no no for me, any movement above and they drop and crack the ceiling + non-staggered boards and one coat of skim (skrim showing) might be the reason.

I would not mess around pinning, screwing the ceiling back up. I doubt you'll get desired finish if you try and make the best of a bad job.
 
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