Can you dab them foil faced kingspans?

[lucius]

Nelly you are not listening ive already told you that you cant do it trust me ive seen it done and they fell of the next day.

 

[beddy]

you can dab the polystyrene backed boads and the celotex plasterboards, but not foilback boards or ONTO celotex

 

[nelly]

Right I found out!

the dabbable ones have some tissue facing as they call it and not the foil. Its confusing because ALL the kooltherm range have pictures of it with foil facings and the dabable ones dont look any different, but I says right at the bottom of that PDF.

I cant be arsed building a studwork..............I might try no nails

 

[lucius]

you can get a low epansive foam to stick them with some people cant get on with it but i find it OK.

 

[Chris W]

nelly, give the old 'concrete screws' a go...

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stick your kingspan to the wall with gripfill or silicon temporarily, butt the joints up and run some gaffer tape over the join...

use some 25x50 treated timber @ 400 ctrs and drill straight through the timber and the cellotex with a 6mm long series sds bit and just wind the screws in, its quick as f'ck mate...

plus, you get a 25mm air gap, you can run your cables in it, you dont need a vapour barrier cos youve taped the joints up and you dont need to use vapour check board for the same reason...

ive just done half a house like this cos it was fire damaged, i couldnt dab owt to it and i absolutely flew round it...

 

[nelly]

you can get a low epansive foam to stick them with some people cant get on with it but i find it OK.

I was thinking of that stuff actually, have you tried it?

 

[beddy]

oasis used it all the time ask hi....oh

 

[nelly]

nelly, give the old 'concrete screws' a go...

Link Removed

stick your kingspan to the wall with gripfill or silicon temporarily, butt the joints up and run some gaffer tape over the join...

use some 25x50 treated timber @ 400 ctrs and drill straight through the timber and the cellotex with a 6mm long series sds bit and just wind the screws in, its quick as f'ck mate...

plus, you get a 25mm air gap, you can run your cables in it, you dont need a vapour barrier cos youve taped the joints up and you dont need to use vapour check board for the same reason...

ive just done half a house like this cos it was fire damaged, i couldnt dab owt to it and i absolutely flew round it...

Funnily enough I was thinking about this method too, I was also thinking about plywood over the K span then screwing to that.

 

[Chris W]

if your gonna use ply you lose your air gap, it'll be silly expensive and youll (or your spark will) have all the fun in the world trying to chop sockets into it...
i'd stick with the 'roofing lath' mate...
although if you want a firmer wall with no air gap, theres nothing to stop you using 25mm cellotex on the wall, batten over and fill the gaps between the battens with more 25mm cellotex?

 

[nelly]

if your gonna use ply you lose your air gap, it'll be silly expensive and youll (or your spark will) have all the fun in the world trying to chop sockets into it...
i'd stick with the 'roofing lath' mate...
although if you want a firmer wall with no air gap, theres nothing to stop you using 25mm cellotex on the wall, batten over and fill the gaps between the battens with more 25mm cellotex?

Thats an idea!

 

[Chris W]

that said and thinking on a bit mate,
if youve got things like kitchen units or sanitary ware to hang on the wall then the ply is a good idea...
used to do that when the 'document m' stuff went mad a few years ago for disable bogs etc.... gives you something to fix all the grabrails etc to....
it just messes you up for fixing electric, but if you surface fix - end of problem...

 

[nelly]

that said and thinking on a bit mate,
if youve got things like kitchen units or sanitary ware to hang on the wall then the ply is a good idea...
used to do that when the 'document m' stuff went mad a few years ago for disable bogs etc.... gives you something to fix all the grabrails etc to....
it just messes you up for fixing electric, but if you surface fix - end of problem...

Good point about the kitchen, I didnt thinjk of that.

 

[Chris W]

or just cut a bigger hole out of the ply where the sockets are going so the dryline backbox pulls up behind the plasterboard, not the ply... just dont forget to get em bang on level and perfectly in line or it'll look a complete c**t when its tiled....