ceiling cracked every joint

Share this page

Robert The Bruce said:
Why is it some plasterers try and tell other experienced, knowledgeable builders or proper plasterers, that the paper jointing tape is "a waste of time" or "that the out of date way of doing it", or " scrim/pro-tape mesh is far stronger and better"?

Why do companies such as BG spend thousands £££ developing a product, and state in their guidelines:

"MORE RESISTANT TO CRACKING THAN FIBRE TAPES"
or "FOR SUPERIOR CRACK RESISTANCE USE PAPER TAPE",
"A PAPER TAPE ALTERNATIVE FOR REINFORCING JOINTS, WITH A GREATER OVERALL CRACKING RESISTANCE"

Why wouldn't you take the manufacturers advice? It's because "plasterers" either don't know how to use it, or the main reason is they can't be bothered because it takes longer.

These companies have technical departments with testing equipment, training departments, scientists etc. etc. and are there to help and advise how get the best out of their products.

I rest my case.
Click to expand...
The reason most don't use paper tape is because they genuinely don't know that it's better and the reason that the rest of us don't most of the time is because builders won't pay for the extra time it takes.
 
Must admit the fibre tape doesn’t seem to be as good as when it first came out, I accept that wood is green and needs to dry out and not just from if it’s left in the wet, wood like people is made of part water and so shrinks when it dries taking the board with it and cracking the joints especially the ceiling lines but with builders ever constant push for houses to be on the market sooner it will only get worse, I don’t remember it being an issue when we used jute scrim mind you that did take a while and a fair amount of gear to put up. Still use it sometimes though
 
essexandy said:
The reason most don't use paper tape is because they genuinely don't know that it's better and the reason that the rest of us don't most of the time is because builders won't pay for the extra time it takes.
Click to expand...
I never thought it be better hands up . I.ll mention it to the builders who I work for see if they will get it instead hmmmm
 
Mouldyoldspudgun said:
Must admit the fibre tape doesn’t seem to be as good as when it first came out, I accept that wood is green and needs to dry out and not just from if it’s left in the wet, wood like people is made of part water and so shrinks when it dries taking the board with it and cracking the joints especially the ceiling lines but with builders ever constant push for houses to be on the market sooner it will only get worse, I don’t remember it being an issue when we used jute scrim mind you that did take a while and a fair amount of gear to put up. Still use it sometimes though
Click to expand...
There are just so many different brands on the market now, and most are pretty crappy if we're honest.
When it first came out back in the eighties there was only one brand, Fibre Tape. I remember it as being way stronger and stiffer. Actually sharp to the touch along its edge, I remember getting cut by it.
The brand still exists but isn't like it used to be.
We offer paper tape to just about all, but it only ever gets taken up by selfbuilders. There are serious cost implications to doing it, I reckon if you just went through taping it could easily take four days on some of the places we've done. And I use a banjo.
 
In a new build situation.
The Nhbc say cracks of up to 2mm in surface finishes are completely acceptable and are to be expected due to shrinkage and differential moment of materials. And should be made good by the home owner as part of normal household maintainace.
I'm not sure id like to explain that to some poor fcuker who's scrimped and saved for the deposit on it and who is now going to be paying the mortgage on it for the next 25yrs.
 
John j said:
Oooh my god whats other colour I need it in me life .....please be purple . I now have a incentive to get up in mornong6
Click to expand...

White.
Ginger/Orange.
Silver.
Blue.
And green.
That's all I know of unless anyone's seen any others
And of course pink and yellow ;)
 
Last edited:
scottie5 said:
In a new build situation.
The Nhbc say cracks of up to 2mm in surface finishes are completely acceptable and are to be expected due to shrinkage and differential moment of materials. And should be made good by the home owner as part of normal household maintainace.
I'm not sure id like to explain that to some poor fcuker who's scrimped and saved for the deposit on it and who is now going to be paying the mortgage on it for the next 25yrs.
Click to expand...
I've got the NHBC stuff downloaded on my phone (is that right tech speak @Danny), it's another handy thing to have along with the Site Book.
 
scottie5 said:
In a new build situation.
The Nhbc say cracks of up to 2mm in surface finishes are completely acceptable and are to be expected due to shrinkage and differential moment of materials. And should be made good by the home owner as part of normal household maintainace.
I'm not sure id like to explain that to some poor fcuker who's scrimped and saved for the deposit on it and who is now going to be paying the mortgage on it for the next 25yrs.
Click to expand...
That's mental . But good lol
 
vfr12 said:
Here is a question for the knowledgeable plasterers
Which boards will move and crack more- the once with smal gap between or the once without gap, tide as f**k?

General practice is to fix the boards to the existing ceiling lath .
Click to expand...
8 x 4 boards
 
Robert The Bruce said:
Why is it some plasterers try and tell other experienced, knowledgeable builders or proper plasterers, that the paper jointing tape is "a waste of time" or "that the out of date way of doing it", or " scrim/pro-tape mesh is far stronger and better"?

Why do companies such as BG spend thousands £££ developing a product, and state in their guidelines:

"MORE RESISTANT TO CRACKING THAN FIBRE TAPES"
or "FOR SUPERIOR CRACK RESISTANCE USE PAPER TAPE",
"A PAPER TAPE ALTERNATIVE FOR REINFORCING JOINTS, WITH A GREATER OVERALL CRACKING RESISTANCE"

Why wouldn't you take the manufacturers advice? It's because "plasterers" either don't know how to use it, or the main reason is they can't be bothered because it takes longer.

These companies have technical departments with testing equipment, training departments, scientists etc. etc. and are there to help and advise how get the best out of their products.

I rest my case.
Click to expand...
I honk a lot don’t use paper tape as it’s seen as long winded to put up but if bg are so intent on saying paper tape should be used why do they also make and sell scrim? It’s because there is a market for it
 
Vincey said:
Tbh mate you should leave a gap that’s correct
Click to expand...
What like the old days I’ve worked with old school plasterers who tack a few clout nails on to the joists next to board to leave a gap and squeeze gear right into joints once scrimed as said many a time on here before think that’s how the dinosaurs on here done it when they had to use hessian scrim
 
If You butt boards together as tight as fcuk when there is movement, which there will be they have nowhere to go.
At college we were taught to leave an 1/8th gap.

@puddove Phil what do you teach these days?.
 
scottie5 said:
Yep I forgot all about the pink.
Thats 6 colours were up to now.
Click to expand...
Yellow to mate

ceiling cracked every joint


And there’s nothing wrong with ginger
 
scottie5 said:
If You butt boards together as tight as fcuk when there is movement, which there will be they have nowhere to go.
At college we were taught to leave an 1/8th gap.

@puddove Phil what do you teach these days?.
Click to expand...
When we learnt how to bead a column if we had to join a bead as it went up we was told to put a clout on bead that was up and then sit next one onto that always found it crazy but then the screeding was a well slow process to do one thing I have always got from college that I use is plumb and dot and box screed when floating if the wall is all different levels,boarding we was taught to leave a gap but it’s rare it’s done I only know of two plasterers who do actually leave a gap they also pva the exposed plaster edge on a board takes 10 seconds I thought why bother but makes all the difference and stops it’s shrinking back ect many don’t do that
 
scottie5 said:
If You butt boards together as tight as fcuk when there is movement, which there will be they have nowhere to go.
At college we were taught to leave an 1/8th gap.

@puddove Phil what do you teach these days?.
Click to expand...
Only you have passed the test and only you are allowed on site! Let the other choose colours- super sticky, extra thin........:rayos:
I mean really wtf. If boards are tide and fixed correctly you won’t have cracks where the joints are . They will actually support the ceiling and bow with it. You will have random cracks , if too much, but not where the joints are.
 
Pagey said:
When we learnt how to bead a column if we had to join a bead as it went up we was told to put a clout on bead that was up and then sit next one onto that always found it crazy but then the screeding was a well slow process to do one thing I have always got from college that I use is plumb and dot and box screed when floating if the wall is all different levels,boarding we was taught to leave a gap but it’s rare it’s done I only know of two plasterers who do actually leave a gap they also pva the exposed plaster edge on a board takes 10 seconds I thought why bother but makes all the difference and stops it’s shrinking back ect many don’t do that
Click to expand...
I always leave a gap , use the back of my estwing, just the sharp bit of my chipper end mate
 
Vincey said:
I always leave a gap , use the back of my estwing, just the sharp bit of my chipper end mate
Click to expand...
Yeah if it works it works mate I’ve seen the tap couple of clout nails in to get the gap and it works I can see why it’s done and reason behind it it’s like if spot Light holes are already cut run a bit of pva in them takes 2 mins and makes all the difference mate don’t need none of that marlarky Danny was doing the other day
 
scottie5 said:
If You butt boards together as tight as fcuk when there is movement, which there will be they have nowhere to go.
At college we were taught to leave an 1/8th gap.

@puddove Phil what do you teach these days?.
Click to expand...


pole dancing :inocente:


butt up - however explain there should be a 3mm gap
 
Last edited:
Pagey said:
What is the tolerance these days you teach to I can’t remember if I was taught 3mm or 5mm didn’t affect me though as I work for perfection :hola:
Click to expand...


all tolerances are 3 mm in 1.8 m --------------------- however you cant beat perfection :inocente: always try to set the standard higher
 
scottie5 said:
Any gap over 5mm was a fail if I remember right.
Click to expand...
I sort of remember it being 5mm but wasn’t sure but when I went onto site work and brick work was all over the place the blokes went to me fcuk what you learnt at college as long as internals ceiling line and skirting line is bang on we can lose a bit in middle if it was to much to bring out lol suppose it was a case of paid by m2 not to dub out
 
puddove said:
all tolerances are 3 mm in 1.8 m --------------------- however you cant beat perfection :inocente: always try to set the standard higher
Click to expand...
Thing is 3mm isn’t a lot really but it was good to do college cos some stuff has come in handy but a lot of it wasn’t fit for the real world
 
Pagey said:
Thing is 3mm isn’t a lot really but it was good to do college cos some stuff has come in handy but a lot of it wasn’t fit for the real world
Click to expand...


i agree, but we have to teach certain stuff to enable the learners to pass exams, once they leave college they start to learn the ways to earn them money, (y) i understand why a lot on here don't agree with some stuff we have to teach, but its like driving you learn to pass your test then learn to drive ---- and we all know the roads are full of knob heads who think they can drive
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top