Coving

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i wash my angles out with a brush aswell. and scribe them. and don't use chalk lines scaffold boards or battons...oh great. flynnys gonna think me and tony are the same person now.
 
steve cov said:
i wash my angles out with a brush aswell. and scribe them. and don't use chalk lines scaffold boards or battons...oh great. flynnys gonna think me and tony are the same person now.
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We are, aren't I?
 
humm a few questions here , I'm looking at attempting to fit some basic coving in a bedroom I'm plastering next week, its an old lath ceiling and it is bound to be all over the place. so first question is how do i ping a line say 3" each side if the ceiling line is all over the palce?


and I'm reali dont get the 2 plank thing? what other way is there 2 cut a miter (bearing in mind im not used to cutting angles like this?)

its this the sort of thing that after attyemoting a few bits i should get the nack of it ?
 
a chalk kine is quite forgiving mate and should get all of the ceiling, but if it is that bad then you will have trouble fitting the cornice in which case you will have to pull in the ceiling line with a feather edge and bonding and patch it up before the cornice, i am sorry i cant really explain the plank thing better.... you are sort of making a box that will hold your cornice in position like how it would be on the ceiling, only because of gravity you have to do it upside down, it just helps you get the mitre right when you are cutting to the marks. you could just use a template like most guys but if the walls are out of square then you will be doing allot more filling in the mitres mate ;)
 
Get a magic mitre or something like that mate, The thing is with a lath ceiling though if it is all over the place it could look a t**t when finished
 
i dont meen so sound so unsure BUT when marking a line i guess i would say messure 3" on wall and ceiling in all 4 corners of room then ping with a line.. even if it runs down in the Corners i still try my best to follow it or bend the coving to stay in the lines?

thanks
 
if the ceiling bends down mate it would be best to straighten it first, dont worry about 10mm dut anything more will cause problems, the more experience you get you will pick odd tricks up to bend the cove and ajust it in the corners.

p.s. dont just mark 3" down, check what size it says to come down on the box as there is a few different sizes mate.

another way to get good mitres is to cut two small pieces of cornice (each about 1 foot long) with one of them triangle templates, offer the cornice up into each corner and adjust it until the mitre is nice and tight then put marks under the cornice with a pencil, then you can ping a line from the marks. you might have to twist the cornice a bit if you do it this way though mate so keep some nails in your pocket ready to hold it in place whilst the adhesive sets, then you can knock them in and fill the heads once you have sunk them enough or take them out and fill the holes ;)

oh and the only reason i recommend using a chalkline is it will just make it easier to fix the cornice but after a few jobs you will get the feel for where it sits, also if it is a long wall and you have to put a joint in it will help you put it at the right height but as i say the more jobs you do you can just put a tape mesure in your pocket and adjust the joint to the right height whilst fixing the cornice, but if this is your first time i would try and do it the way i recommended in my guide mate as it is much harder to get wrong ;)
 
i'm doing some coving next week sometime hopefully. if i remember ill take a few pics. i've just bought a wonder mitre aswell so i wanna give that a go. ill be scribing the joints though, not how kirk described.
 
there are loads of ways to do it, i dont normaly scribe joins unless i have to like when you are joining into an existing wall. why dont you tell tell oasis how to scribe them mate as i cant be arsed writing a guide on every way ever to fix cornice ;D
 
its hard to describe it, thats why i thought i'd take a few pics. i just find it gives you more leniency if the internals are out of square. and you dont have to keep getting up and down. marking it, cutting it, checking it.
 
tbh the only reason i use a box is because you can cut any angle and any size cornice and i like to fit the cast stuff so you can use this method for that as it is better when trying to match up a pattern like the swags in oasis's picture, also not much filling on the joints

p.s the cornice in oasis,s picture is the adam style (robert adam architect) his work is beautifull mate top stuff ;)
 
if ive got 45s or something like that to cut. then i will do it like you say. other than that mate. i cant see how any other way than scribing is better or quicker. just my opinion though.
 
no mate i know what you mean, its just you stick to what you know. i have fixed a fair bit of cast plaster and this is the best way to cut it so it just what i am used to i suppose ;)

its like everything, there are loads of ways to do thins and you just pick what suites you best
 
Hi guys, havent introduced mySelf before, sorry I should have said hi in the 'say hello' section

ive done a bit of Coving before but only on nice flat ceilings. If u were doing a ceiling that had a low point on it could u mesure down from that point and the ping a line the whole way round the room, put coving up and then fill the top edge? I have this issue at the mo and don't have the chance to bond out the ceiling

cheers guys, really enjoying Reading this forum... especially kirks guides z z z ;) Haha only joking mate. Great info for newbies have found them very interesting, which I had half as much knowledge as u... I'm not G** by the way

Thanks
perry
 
on a serious note tho - can you cove like that? Measure down the depth of cove from lowest point on ceiling and then ping a line?

cheers fellas
 
pezzab said:
on a serious note tho - can you cove like that? Measure down the depth of cove from lowest point on ceiling and then ping a line?

cheers fellas
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Never done that in my life. Just cove it, not rocket science. The proper fibrous guys (not me) the ones that have done fibrous are normally the nuts tho on period work but for your average 2 up/ 2 down customer who wants his sitting room skiimmed and some ogee etc put up and who dont want to spend a fortune on a vic house which has prob been 'settling' for the last 100 yrs will be happy enough
 
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