Cracking plaster on chimney breast above wood burner
- Thread starter arthurjob
- Start date
ChrispyUK
Well-Known Member
Don't burn any wood.
D
Deleted member 32554
Guest
Assume burner has enough clearance , have you got a liner installed or just a pipe to register plate , was it professionally installed
What are you plastering it with , could you dab a pink sheet across the breast and skim
@Tinytom
D
Deleted member 32554
Guest
Why not on the breast face
John j
Mono Don
Back track . Are you just skimming over existing @arthurjob
John j
Mono Don
@arthurjob hmmmm clues in name
MakeItSmooth
Well-Known Member
D
Deleted member 32554
Guest
I didn't even use pink to do two in last house lol
Tinytom
Well-Known Member
Best method iv found is fermacel power panels dabbed on, skim the 2 sides and bed some render mesh into first coat, leave the back board bare. If we’re talking about the face of the chimney then you need to find out the manufacturers recommended distance to combustible materials.
pink plasterboard it’s normal is classed as combustible because of the paper lining
pink plasterboard it’s normal is classed as combustible because of the paper lining
ThePostman
Active Member
Fibres
ThePostman
Active Member
On the breast? Or the aperture?
Chimney breast shouldent crack. I'd understand if round the fire would. Carlite bonding good whith heat. Other options board it whith whatever sutible to heat.
Vincey
Private Member
All of it mate
Djr
Well-Known Member
I used ocr on me brothers meshed it 1st still intact to this day 5 years on
bof is on the money with the questions - it's cracking because it is getting too hot, before you get to finishes, why is it getting so hot - un-lined chimney? shot brickwork?, overburning/too big stove? Who put it in? etc.
And where is it cracking - way up on the wall or just above the stove?
As a guess; you've installed it yourself, not put a liner in, its an old halfbrick wall with uneven thickness, and you're running it way too hot. The brickwork itself is expanding and cracking in the heat, not just the plaster.
I like CrispyUK's solution!
And where is it cracking - way up on the wall or just above the stove?
As a guess; you've installed it yourself, not put a liner in, its an old halfbrick wall with uneven thickness, and you're running it way too hot. The brickwork itself is expanding and cracking in the heat, not just the plaster.
I like CrispyUK's solution!
Dollar
Well-Known Member
Sounds like his problem is the wall above fire
Forget any gypsum products the heat these kick out will just crack crumble j
shop.vitcas.com
shop.vitcas.com
Your welcome
Forget any gypsum products the heat these kick out will just crack crumble j
FR - Fireplace Render
Fireproof Render is ideal for rendering brick, stone, concrete, and breeze block fireplaces and stoves. This base coat is designed to support the Vitcas Heat Resistant Plaster finish coat. It withstands temperatures up to 1400°C / 2550°F.
shop.vitcas.com
VITCAS Heat Resistant PLASTER
Heatproof Plaster is a smooth-finish plaster which provides robust protection against high temperatures up to 650°C / 1200°F. It is ideal for areas around cassette fireplace openings, often referred to as "hole in the wall" fires, inset stoves, and next to wood-burning stoves and range cookers...
shop.vitcas.com
Your welcome
worthwords
Active Member
I lime rendered our breast. Filled in the recessed mortar joints with horse haired lime then followed the spec from Mike Wye support team.
I was advised not to use any beading around the aperture - metal will expand and crack the plaster and plastic will melt. So I made a temporary frame pinned with dutch pins.
It was originally a 1930s but someone had gone mad in the 70s and added more bricks with a massive brick hearth which I have replaced with slate.
5Kw stove - installed by diligent HETAS guy who suggested some modifications. Definitely worth running past a pro first as there are specific rules around distance between stove and combustibles.
Not a quick job (took me weeks with 10 days curing for the thicker coats).
I was advised not to use any beading around the aperture - metal will expand and crack the plaster and plastic will melt. So I made a temporary frame pinned with dutch pins.
It was originally a 1930s but someone had gone mad in the 70s and added more bricks with a massive brick hearth which I have replaced with slate.
5Kw stove - installed by diligent HETAS guy who suggested some modifications. Definitely worth running past a pro first as there are specific rules around distance between stove and combustibles.
Not a quick job (took me weeks with 10 days curing for the thicker coats).
worthwords
Active Member
Thanks.
Air grill as of yesterday.
Originally there was an open fire so the when cavity wall insulation brutes came they made a mess of a combustion vent - unsleved, non compliant hit and miss and installed it upside down (2009).
The stupid thing is the draft coming from the vent was unbearable so negated any potential benefits from cavity wall insulation.
The room is big enough to not need a combustion vent so stove guy gave go ahead to brick it up. Luckily found a load of imperial bricks under the floorboards!
Stevieo
Royal Spin Doctor
hollybank
Private Member
The trouble with putting wood burning stoves in an aperture that size is all the heat from the stove heats the brickwork up and you see no benefit from it.
D
Deleted member 32554
Guest
Wants a circulation fan hidden behind it
worthwords
Active Member
Yes, it was a concern but in practice the stove is awesome and makes the room very cosy.Certainly a lot better than the old open fire in which the heat was sucked out of the chimney.
I put a 20mm vermiculite back to it so that most of the heat goes into the bricks or the room and thermal mass of the brick helps keep the room warm for some hours after the fire has gone out.
One of the benefits for replacing the brick hearth with a shorter slate was to improve circulation and I was able to squeeze this stove fan in the back
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