Cracks

The Hobo said:
no don't like hairy ginger arseholes
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@John j school photo, he's transginger now.
Cracks
 
ChrispyUK said:
Not bad for a Wednesday Norm. So you form a ‘vee’ and any crack that could form is in the valley so you don’t see it? Shadow gap so to speak
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Not really a crack, you know the plaster will pull back a bit from the bead just leaves a small gap rather than a hairline crack from metal over wooden bead.
 
The Hobo said:
let me educate you boys if u plaster up to timber it will crack that's the reason for the v joint which by the way is formed by using the head of a 5inch oval nail so the crack is hidden and don't show
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But if you scrim the joint it also eliminates the chance of cracking, the same as the joint between plasterboard.
 
John j said:
Any body had come back from doing bottom meter in sand and cement in to plasterboard even after scrimming joint.
Also on wooden beads. I.ve never had comeback after scrimming bead but kid who's doing job with me next week says he has so wants to pull em of.
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I had a wooden beads crack few years ago went back and sorted it. Since then I have always cut them out, stick metals beads on with bonding, let them set properly and fill them out.
 
Shamrock78 said:
PVA the bead first, bead on, scrim down both sides, bit of bonding on top of scrim then skim it. Never had a bead crack and I always say to the customer if it cracks let me know and I'll pop back and fix it.
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what a fkin faff
by the time ye fked about doing that you might as well just cut the fker out and hardwall it up and do the fkin job properly fkin chancers forum on here
 
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