Damp and mould on new dot and dab boards

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bopper said:
Infact only down the road from ye,the other pool
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liverpool or hartlepool or prestonpool
or good old manchesterpool ??
or lancasterpool
doncasterpool ??
bristolpool......hold on i bet its ye old greatbritainpool.
or the nieghbouring walespool.
(fuuck scotspool they dont wanna know us anymore :()
 
algeeman said:
liverpool or hartlepool or prestonpool
or good old manchesterpool ??
or lancasterpool
doncasterpool ??
bristolpool......hold on i bet its ye old greatbritainpool.
or the nieghbouring walespool.
(fuuck scotspool they dont wanna know us anymore :()
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Could be gaymapool?
 
im off to see a lady today with the same problem. i will be telling her take it all down. it's not worth keeping up in a bid to save some money. needs doing properly from scratch. @Airwalker are your builders called ABKD construction by any chance?! :ROFLMAO:
 
Just out of interest, when I'm only an ignorant customer, how would I have known anything about cavity walls with dot and dab being a bad thing? That's why we employed a builder. It was their call, and they still insist it's ok and happens on building sites everywhere.

I was just hoping to gather some honest and impartial feedback as to whether the builder was giving us straight advice and we should indeed not worry, just keep drying, dehumidifying and wiping the visible spots away, or whether we need it ripping off and start again. And if so, what was the recommended approach for redoing it.
 
It's not your problem unless you instructed them to hurry up, going against the advise of it needs to dry out. I doubt it was boarded before the roof went on if it did that's one problem, I suggest the cavity was left open with insulation and it's got soaked or you have a leak now.
 
Airwalker said:
Just out of interest, when I'm only an ignorant customer, how would I have known anything about cavity walls with dot and dab being a bad thing? That's why we employed a builder. It was their call, and they still insist it's ok and happens on building sites everywhere.

I was just hoping to gather some honest and impartial feedback as to whether the builder was giving us straight advice and we should indeed not worry, just keep drying, dehumidifying and wiping the visible spots away, or whether we need it ripping off and start again. And if so, what was the recommended approach for redoing it.
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you wouldn't have known if that's not in your particular skill set. your builder sounds like 'not a very nice person'. he should come back and correct his mistakes but it doesn't sound like he will. if it was my house i'd take it down and re-do it. but having said that as long as the brick work and plaster completely dry out, which could take a while, you may get away with cleaning off mould and pva-ing before skimming
 
Certainly not my skill set! I can dry line ok as a DIY job, but that's just a basic get-on-with-it task. I certainly don't know the how/why/when of what or where you should/shouldn't do it. Though I'm learning more about the risks and problems with what's been done in this case!

The builders wanted to get in and out fast - it wasn't driven by us trying to rush them by any stretch - we were usually trying to slow them down. They did get the roof on before they boarded, but they didn't wait for the doors to go in, and they certainly didn't wait for it to dry out. The insulation within the cavity was earthwool/loft roll type stuff (not sure on specific type), and it definitely got wet before roof went on.

The irony in this is that during the works themselves, they were a really nice family crew.

I'll give the foreman another call. His son completely belittled my wife with his attitude on this when she called, so at the very least I want to pick up on that as it was totally unnecessary to have spoken to her in that way.

Worst case I'm facing a couple of lost weekends doing it again myself, or a few hundred quid in materials and labour for our plasterer to sort.

Ho hum. I had a teacher that always said "if a job's worth doing... it's worth doing well".

Live and learn :muyenojado:
 
Hire a space heater it's worth giving it ago,airwalker what is the finished wall outside brick or block?can you see the damp in the wall as you look at it from the outside?even better put a pic up of the outside walls.....
 
Get the heating on, and get it skimmed, lots of overkill on this thread.
When you say a cavity wall, what exactly do you mean?
Outside skin- four inch cavity- inside blockwork, I'm presuming.......
Nowt wrong with dot & dab on them....[emoji848]


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Blockwork outer and inner. Outer is awaiting render finish but looks pretty dry now. Mould spots don't appear any worse over last two days.

Here's a shot during the build when the first course was laid. Ignore the foreground as that's an 80s built extension that was previously a garage.
Damp and mould on new dot and dab boards
 
Pfft there's your problem bud the dark grey blocks are piss wet and then they have been boarded over , the water needs to get out and this is why it's spotting , I think big k is right get heating on . If you want a fix straight away it's a rip off job buddy.the builders know what they are doing, I see the blocks through the window stacked normally they would stack them 4 on top of 4 they have stacked 3on top of 3 with a gap between them this allows air to circulate around them to dry them.just time ...
 
Airwalker said:
Just out of interest, when I'm only an ignorant customer, how would I have known anything about cavity walls with dot and dab being a bad thing? That's why we employed a builder. It was their call, and they still insist it's ok and happens on building sites everywhere.

I was just hoping to gather some honest and impartial feedback as to whether the builder was giving us straight advice and we should indeed not worry, just keep drying, dehumidifying and wiping the visible spots away, or whether we need it ripping off and start again. And if so, what was the recommended approach for redoing it.
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See this a lot on sites in winter. The walls have had a good soaking so blocks are full of moisture. Doors and windows open for a few days will help but if it was my place I would remove boards and give it a few weeks to dry
 
spreadylonglegs said:
See this a lot on sites in winter. The walls have had a good soaking so blocks are full of moisture. Doors and windows open for a few days will help but if it was my place I would remove boards and give it a few weeks to dry
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how can anyone give advice on sat night about
..
...........errmmmmmm
hello is that you mate ...
ok
il be there soon.
 
I think your only option is too take a Stanley, cut the edge of the board, peel back the paper (delicate job that) get a 1mm chisel and start chopping the mould out, fill her back up and glue the paper back. B e a u t i f u l, probably will take roughly 10 weeks.


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Airwalker said:
Hi all. Looking for advice please...

Builders just completed a rear extension - block built cavity wall. They dot and dabbed standard plasterboard (paper backed) to all the walls in this area before the rear French doors were installed. The sides of the head and reveals were protected with plastic sheeting, but that's about it. The house is undergoing major renovations and has no heating currently. It was a wet period when this was done (a few weeks ago now).

After the doors were fitted, we returned to the house about a week later and noticed damp spots where the dabs had starting to leach through, all of which had black mould spots dotted across the surface. This was about 2 weeks ago.

We cleaned off the mould as best we could with an Anti-mould spray and damp sponge, and put a dehumidifier in the room plus a small convector heater. This seemed to keep the worst of the mould at bay over the weekend when we could be in the house running the heater and dehumidifier. But over the week when it's unoccupied, the mould returns. Not as bad as it was, but definitely coming back.

The builder claims this is entirely normal and admits no liability. That we should keep heating/dehumidifying and just carry on wiping any mould away as it appears until it's all dried out. Since some of the mould is ingrained into the board and doesn't wipe off (faint admittedly), that's not exactly plausible.

So... is our builder correct? Will I be wasting money in getting skimmed now if there's an inherent problem that won't go away with mould growth?
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I know this is an old post but I'm wondering how you got on with it? I've just dot and dabbed an entire house and got the same problem. Did you have to start all over?
 
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