damp wall tanking?

Status
Not open for further replies.
tommykeeton

tommykeeton

New Member
Help needed been to price up a room for
board and skim and one of the walls is really damp its been hacked
off for around three weeks and still very damp.

The outside of the house as a concrete
path up to the building which seems to be higher than the dpc.

Now if I tank the wall then sand cement
wall (will i need to add water proofer to this mix) ready for boarding will this not just force the water around the
building making other walls damp.

I know the answer would be to brake the
path up but the customer does not seem keen on this any advice much
appreciated.
 
Thanks for that that's what I was going
to do apply to the floor the joint and on the wall but I don't want
to cause any damp were there is none is there a better solution than
tank slurry.
 
Obviously I ain't seen it mate, but I have used damp proof membrane in the past, does the job well,I don't think you will push the damp elswere on the building, but salt penetration can spread elsewhere in the room with no membrane, Ideally you want to lower the level of that path, but you know that already:RpS_thumbup:
 
tank slurry it is then would add water proofer to the sc mix im going to mesh the slurry then scatch coat with sc so i can dab the boards on.
 
wonder if there's a possibility of doing what irish recommended recently. I had a floor that had bridged the dpc of an internal wall. So i kangoed an 8 inch border up around the perimeter of the floor down to the sub floor. Laid in some dpm making sure it lipped up the wall. filled in with some concrete to the finished floor level. I tanked the walls with sbr slurry, dricoated up to 1m and skimmed. No more damp.
 
baton it and get a vapour barrier in there.

the last thing you want is a completed wall, where there's litres of water pooling on the floor.
 
The advice you have been given might be just what is required. Out of curiosity, this wall with the bridged dpc., do any internal walls run off it? Presumably the floor is solid.
 
tommykeeton said:
Would the dabs take to the tanking I thought it would not take
Click to expand...
You said you were tankin then sand cement then dab? To be honest with you mate I think membrane is the way to go on this one, cut it to size, fix it with hammer in plastic plugs, then plaster, dab or whatever. Rather than feckin about with tankin slurry, mesh, sand cement etc is it a timber floor is there joist ends against damp wall?
 
sliemasteve said:
The advice you have been given might be just what is required. Out of curiosity, this wall with the bridged dpc., do any internal walls run off it? Presumably the floor is solid.
Click to expand...
What's your thinkin Steve???? I ain't no expert, but have dealt with this kind of thing in the past. My brother does know his stuff in this field and I've done jobs with him, and he swears by the membrane approach, and I kind of prefer it too
 
Last edited:
the plot thickens email from customer..........


i had a damp expert in and he said the moisture wasnt coming from the raised floor level outside it was coming from above getting in through the render it hasnt been paintered for about 8 years so is ready to be painted to try and stop some moisture, he also said clean guttering and grates, he said i would still need to nutralise the salt in the wall and make the wall water proof before boarding after all that he still told me i needed a new damp proof injected which i dont understand if its not coming from bellow?
 
Get some pics posted mate, if the ground level is higher outside, bridging the original dpc I dont know what an injected dpc is gonna do?? I thought you meant on your op that the wall was damp down at the ground level have you looked outside at the state of the render etc, is the whole wall damp from floor to ceilin?Damp proof membrane is the way to go,the membrane you say is on the job, it's not the smooth under floor stuff is it?
 
Fatarm said:
What's your thinkin Steve???? I ain't no expert, but have dealt with this kind of thing in the past. My brother does know his stuff in this field and I've done jobs with him, and he swears by the membrane approach, and I kind of prefer it too
Click to expand...

If you consider a typical room with four walls, A has damp as described, it faces wall D and there are say internal or party walls at B and C. If all of wall A is underground ( nsay by 300 mm) and a membrane system is to be successully installed how do you stop the damp in wall A migrating along walls B and C?. My hesitation is simply that for all we know, maybe, only the centre of wall A is beneath the external ground level in which case a membrane might solve the problem.

If it were important and a thorough solution required the partial demolition of walls B and C to say 300 mm above the external ground level would be required. Less thorough solutions often work but they don’t provide certainty.

For the plasterer or damp proofer its necessary to explain to the customer the options, costs and chance of failure, in writing and let them decide.

 
Wall a is damp from floor to around 2feet joining internal wall b is dry external wall c is dry it looks like the path is coming up if I expose say 3 bricks down can I apply slurry to the external or is there a better solution for external brick sorry for all the questions
 
sliemasteve said:


If you consider a typical room with four walls, A has damp as described, it faces wall D and there are say internal or party walls at B and C. If all of wall A is underground ( nsay by 300 mm) and a membrane system is to be successully installed how do you stop the damp in wall A migrating along walls B and C?. My hesitation is simply that for all we know, maybe, only the centre of wall A is beneath the external ground level in which case a membrane might solve the problem.

If it were important and a thorough solution required the partial demolition of walls B and C to say 300 mm above the external ground level would be required. Less thorough solutions often work but they don’t provide certainty.

For the plasterer or damp proofer its necessary to explain to the customer the options, costs and chance of failure, in writing and let them decide.
Click to expand...
Without seeing it it's hard to call, your right. But I think it has changed from the op of bridging dpc to painting render and attention to rainwater goods now the "damp expert " has seen it, the customer doesnt want to deal with the concrete path, mabye financial i don't know. Prevention better than cure and all that, they either want it done right or done cheap... You can't have both :RpS_thumbup:
 
tommykeeton said:
Wall a is damp from floor to around 2feet joining internal wall b is dry external wall c is dry it looks like the path is coming up if I expose say 3 bricks down can I apply slurry to the external or is there a better solution for external brick sorry for all the questions
Click to expand...
I thought the " damp expert" said it wasn't due to the path?but render problem and gutters, what's happening mate you were askin about internal now your external, you have to determine the source of the prob??????
 
Sort the path out or your pissing in the wind why are you letting a customer tell you how they want it fixing? then telling you someone else said do it this way? Tell them your way, give them a price, they will either have it or get someone else or give you a bell back in a few months to sort the problem again.
 
True words of wisdom flynny, that's what I was kinda gettin at, it's all gettin a bit silly and confusing, so for that reason..... I'm out!!!!:confused:
 
hi if the damp is comeing from outside. use a tankin slurry cementone up to 1 metre then. give a metre scratch with a waterproofer init. then render it creating a plimth. a high plimth this will conquer the outside issue. then the wall on the inside tankinking slurry then blind with cement. scratch with a waterproofer the finsh with a render top coat. and skim.
 
tommykeeton said:
Would the dabs take to the tanking I thought it would not take
Click to expand...

You dont wanna be dabbing onto the tanking marra.big no no. I would tanking slurry, renevating plaster then skim it........but if the path is bridging then you still need that sorted
 
Cheers for all the advice looks like its all fell through customer not answering phone or emails cost me £20 in fuel cock.
Anyways at least iv got a lot better understanding now thanks again
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Share this page

Back
Top