Dash

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S a plastering

S a plastering

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Whats the crack with dash on a timber frame got the theone to price up was thinkin breathable roofing felt then stainless eml screwed on with stainless washers
Also where the timber meets the brickwork is it best taking the eml over the joint an cut some of the exsisting dash back or is it best with expansion beads ta
 
Could i ask a question here too please, would you or have you ever fitted roofing laths prior to fitting the membrane ?
 
madmonk said:
Whats the crack with dash on a timber frame got the theone to price up was thinkin breathable roofing felt then stainless eml screwed on with stainless washers
Also where the timber meets the brickwork is it best taking the eml over the joint an cut some of the exsisting dash back or is it best with expansion beads ta
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if the timber frame is covered in sheet material, i would use rib lathe.we removed an external on block work last week, that had eml,when we got the eml off, the blockwork was clean. it was as if the eml had worked as a barrier instead of fixing system.
on the joint ,i would fit a stop bead or better still a movement bead if poss. the chances are the stone will not match the existing.
 
Breathable roofing felt and either eml or rib lath. Whether you go for galvanised or stainless is up to you, I have always used galvanised without a problem of rusting.

Using a movement bead on the joint will be fool proof and take the felt up to the felt side of the bead. If you do not go for a movement bead then take the felt over the joint onto the brick and then the eml needs to go past the felt.
 
Rigsby said:
Breathable roofing felt and either eml or rib lath. Whether you go for galvanised or stainless is up to you, I have always used galvanised without a problem of rusting.

Using a movement bead on the joint will be fool proof and take the felt up to the felt side of the bead. If you do not go for a movement bead then take the felt over the joint onto the brick and then the eml needs to go past the felt.
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Cheers rigs
 
I would cut the top 6" of the dash on the brick/blockwork and sit a drip-bead onto that. Bed it onto a line of clear mastic and then fix it to the wall then put eml over that and up and over your timber frame. That way all of the new dashing is above the bead. I don't like it when you see a couple of inches of fresh dashing into the existing, looks terrible IMO. If you think that it will still crack where the joint is then put a plain rendered band around it from the drip bead up to the joint (assuming that the timber/brick joint is level all the way round)
Edit: Put a movement bead on the joint too! (so your band is between that and the drip bead)
 
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Bubbs know what your saying but its only the top half its being built onto a flat roof so the drip bead will only be on the new part with a vertical joint onto exsisting
 
Well on the vertical joint use a stop bead and build it out so that the walls will have a slight step in them at the joint - make that intersection into a band as well :RpS_thumbup:
 
madmonk said:
No pal
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lol........just ive been reading all the posts and suggestions and i just couldnt picture it in my head.........a picture paints a thousand words and all that...............i can be as thick as a castle wall sometimes..............but not all the time............:RpS_blink:
 
The top half of the house is dashed only and on the back of the house hes extending the bathroom by 2 metres and that will be built onto the flat roof thats why hes doing it out of timber
 
madmonk said:
The top half of the house is dashed only and on the back of the house hes extending the bathroom by 2 metres and that will be built onto the flat roof thats why hes doing it out of timber
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roger..............:RpS_thumbup:
 
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